It is essential to have a warm, airy and dry place to store your harvests that they will not be disturb. Drying should be completed within six days to retain the aroma, flavor and active ingredients of the plants. Once dry, store in airtight dark glass or pottery containers with clear labels. Most will keep for up to 18 months.
Flowers - Harvest after the bloom has opened fully, early in the day after the dew has dried. Handle carefully, preferably using sissors to snip the head from the stem. Place the flower heads on a tray lined with paper (such as newspaper) and allow to dry. For small flowers, such as Lavender, treat as for seeds.
Aerial Parts & Leaves - Large leaves can be removed to dry individually, while smaller leaves are best left on the stem. Gather the leaves of deciduous plants before flowering and evergreens, such as rosemary, year round. If using all of the aerial parts, harvest in mid-flower.
Seeds - Harvest the entire head and a good length of stem when the seeds are almost ripe, before wind and critters have gotten to them. Hung upside down over a paper lined tray away from direct sunlight. Seeds will fall off when ripe.
Roots - Harvest roots in autumn after the plant has wilted, before the ground hardens. Dandelions, however, should be harvested in spring. Roots that reaborb moisture from the air and become soft should be discarded.
Saps & Resins - Harvest from trees in autumn when the sap is falling by making a deep incision in the bark, or by drilling a hole and collecting the sap in a bucket tied to the tree. Squeeze the sap from latex plants, such as wild lettuce, by hand over a bowl. Wear protective gloves as many saps can be corrosive or highly acidic.
Fruit - Harvest fruits and berries when just ripe, before it becomes too soft. Spread on trays to dry, turning fleshy fruits often to ensure even drying. Discard any that show signs of mold.
Bark - Harvest in autumn when the sap is falling, this minimizes the damange to the tree. Never remove all the bark, or a complete ring from the tree, as this will kill the plant. Dust or wipe the bark, to remove moss or insects, and avoid soaking. Break into 1 - 2 inch pieces and spread on trays to dry.
Bulbs - Harvest after the aerial part of the plant has wilted. Collect quickly as some, such as garlic, have a tendency to skin further into the soil.
Preparations
Infusions - Infusions are for leaves and flowers delicate parts. A very simple way of using herbs, infusions are made in much the same way as tea. The water should be just off the boil since boiling water disperses valuable oils in the steam. Standard quantities are 30g dried herb or 75 g fresh herb to 500ml water (refer to information on the particular herb for specific quantities). Put the herb in a pot with a tight fitting lid and pour the hot water over the herb. Let infuse for 10 minutes, then pour through a nylon sieve or strainer. Store in a cool place for a day. Fresh infusions should be made daily as needed.
Decoctions - Decoctions are for roots and bark hard parts. This method is a more vigorous extraction of a plant's ingredients and is used for roots, barks, twigs, and some berries. Standard quantities are 30g dried herb or 60g fresh herb to 750ml water. Place the herb in a saucepan and add cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for up to an hour or until the volume has been reduced by 1/3. Strain through a nylon sieve into a pitcher or teacup. As with infusions store in a cool place for a day, and make fresch decoctions daily as needed.
Tinctures - These are made by steeping the dried or fresh herb in a 25% mixture of alcohol and water (WARNING: Do not use industrial alcohol, methyl alcohol, or rubbing alcohol in tincture making as they are extremely toxic). The alcohol not only aids the extraction of the plant's active ingredients but acts as a preservative allowing tinctures to keep for up to two years. Tinctures should be made from individual herbs. Vodka is ideal to use in tinctures because it contains few additives, but rum can help mask the flavor of less palatable herbs. Standard quantities are 200g dried herb or 600g fresh herb to 1 liter 25% alcohol/water mixture. Put the herb in a large jar and cover with the alcohol/water mixture. Seal tightly and store the jar in a cool, dark place for two weeks shaking occassionaly. Fit a cheesecloth around the rim of a wine press. Pour the mixture through. Press the mixture through the wine press into a jug. (The residue left may be used as for compost) Pour the strained liquid into dark glass bottles, seal and store in a cool place.
Ointments - Ointments contain no water, only oils and fats, and do not combine with the skin like creams. Instead they form a seperate layer over the skin. Standard quantities are 500g petroleum jelly or paraffin wax to 60g dried herb. Melt the the wax or jelly in a bowl over a pan of boiling water (or double saucepan), stir in the herbs and heat for about two hours or until the herbs are crisp. Pour the mixture into a jelly bag or cheesecloth, fitted securely to the rim of a jug. Since the mixture is hot, wear rubber gloves during the next step. Squeeze the mixture through the jelly bag into the jug. Quickly pour the strained mixture into clean glass storage jars.
Poultices - Boil the fresh herb and squeeze out any excess liquid. Spread it on the affected area and apply gauze or cotton strips to hold the poultice carefully in place. Use sufficient herb to cover affected area and replace the poultice every 2-4 hours as needed.
Optimum temperture is 70 - 90 degrees F (20 - 32 degrees C)
Avoid using the garage as exhaust fumes can contaminate.