June 3, 1998 - Glasgow - Rating: 1 We barely made our connection to Glasgow from Heathrowe International in London. We made a 70 minute connection in half an hour, but only by running between terminals 1 and 4… a VERY long ways. Unfortunately, our packs didn’t make it. We got our package deals when we got in Glasgow and stayed at a B&B tonight… we had a hot breakfast on the plane to GLA from LHR. Something like scrambled egg (but not) wrapped in bacon with roasted tomato and mushrooms. Also a roll w/ butter and sliced orange and grapefruit. And of course tea. We are beginning to like this tea very much. WE HATE AIRPORTS. Chris hates Glasgow. A lot. We got our baggage… 5-6 hours after getting here. Chris paced the hallway downstairs waiting for it, pestering the British Airways people once an hour. We could do nothing without it. The packs began falling apart. If it looks to good to be true, it is. Buy expensive packs! After not sleeping for two days or eating in 12 hours, we finally got 2 fish and chips and liter of coke. We spent 6.69 pounds. It was rather greasy and gave Chris a tummy ache. We didn’t get to see the Necropolis today so it will wait until we leave. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.

June 4, 1998 - Stirling - Rating: 8

Breakfast at the B&B was: fried runny egg, bacon, sausage, tomato, cereal, toast, juice and tea. We then went to SYHA Glasgow and got 40 pounds back because our packages were 279 not 299, so 40 pounds cash. We got a train and in ½ an hour we were in Stirling… where the hostel was uphill but only a few meters from the castle. We had a pleasant time with a nice Campbell man at the Church of the Holy Rude, where James VI was coronated and Mary Queen of Scots was baptized. The church also had impressions in the stone where bullets from Oliver Cromwell’s army had impacted on it. We toured a graveyard with a great view spot called Lady’s Rock. We toured the castle and the backwalks and the town wall. Chris got plenty of pics of everything and the Wallace moment in the distance. The Castle is really nice, even though they are doing construction on it. We sat at Lady’s rock over 1 hour waiting for the sun to set. Breakfast on June 5 at the hostel - which was an old church - was cereal, juice, roll, slice of cheese (odd type), slice of ham (real ham), tea. We hopped a train to Perth to transfer for Pitlochry but waited at the wrong place so we had to run to the correct one.. we are now in Pitlochry and may tour some distilleries.

June 5, 1998 - Pitlochry - Rating: 5

The hostel was a great view spot but that means hiking up a hill. It really wasn’t that far from the train station. We dropped off our stuff and set out for the town. We visited the Blair Atholl distillery which intoxicates the surrounding area with its vapors. We bought a few miniatures on the way out. Near the distillery was the entrance to a trail leading to the dam and fish ladder. We followed the trail… found a suspension bridge and took a walk towards Killikrankie and Soldiers Leap but found a nice spot to turn around and make a loop back to town. We ate at a place called "The Pancake". Good food nice prices. It doesn’t get dark around here until after 22:00.

June 6, 1998 - Edinburgh - Rating 6

We caught a morning train to Edinburgh from Pitlochry with no problems. We alighted at the Haymarket station and walked to the hostel. We dropped off our belongings and made reservations for Aberdeen, then set out for the kiltmaker Chris had found (William Macintosh & Sons) After a bit of wandering (cities are hard to navigate) we made it to Lawnmarket and the kiltmaker. He was a very nice man and his son was sociable. Chris was fitted (measured) and paid for the kilt and some accessories. It should be home in early August. We then set out for the castle in time to catch the changing of the guard. We saw the Stone of Destiny and the Scottish Crown Jewels, but didn’t find the appin banner. We both decided Stirling had a better castle to tour. We found a nice place to eat called the Last Drop Pub. Chris bought a shirt there. It is on the same spot as the old gallows were. We had diner and some cider (hard, of course). It was good and we really like the place.

June 7, 1998 - Aberdeen Rating: 4

We made the train right on time. We walked from the hostel to the station just in time to hear the announcement for the train to Aberdeen and it was mostly empty. So we had no trouble stowing our bags and finding seats for the long ride. In Aberdeen in was a very long walk to the hostel from the train station. We walked down and were fortunate enough for them to let a 4 person room to us so we could be alone. After resting from the long walk we went in search of food and ended up eating bacon double cheeseburger at a Burger King on Union Street. We walked back through town looking in record and video stores and a small mall. We headed back and it started to rain so we headed in to The Nile for a pint of cider. Chris got half a pint of Guinness.. We waited for the rain to let up and headed back. We’re at the same latitude as Moscow (about). It doesn’t get dark here.

June 8 + 9, 1998 - Inverness (Lochness, Culloden) - Rating: 9

We got to the train station just in time to wait quite a while in a cold train station. I fed a pigeon and got a picture of it. We set off for Inverness. We spent 2 days in Inverness. On the day we arrived we left for Culloden by the #2 bus as the girl at the hostel desk told us. It was not the bus we wanted so we watched the road signs and got off when the bus turned from where we wanted to go. We had to walk 2 miles to the battlefield to then find out our book told us bus #12 from the post office. We returned to Inverness and got dinner at the Moray Pub on Baron Taylor St. We had Chicken curry and cider. We woke and ate early to go to Lochness. Urquhart castle - a ruin - our first. It is a great view point of the loch so we didn’t need to go anywhere else. We got great pics of the ruins and caught the #12 to Culloden again. Between two monuments at Culloden we found a little fawn only days old (we got 2 pics), reported it to the people at the main office. It was cloudier and rainier today but it was worth the trip. We returned to Inverness and went to Safeway to get diner for Carbisdale Castle since nothing is close to it. We hunted all over for a place to eat and finally found a pub right across from the Moray called Molloy’s. A nice Irish pub. We had the best Chile con carne with rice and garlic bread and of course a pint of cider. Twas very filling dinner. We returned to the hostel. While looking for a place to eat we found a jewelry shop and found an Iona wedding band for Melanie. It fits just a little loose but it has a blank spot where Melanie may be able to get it sized down. It matches Chris’. We didn’t think we’d find one but we did for only 5.99 pounds.

June 10, 1998 Carbisdale Castle (Culrain) - Rating: 2

It I cold! Melanie wore a T-shirt, undershirt, sweat shirt, flannel, Chris’ fleece. It is still cold. We made our own diner. It was not as good as yellow mush at home but we did with what we had. We had ginger beer and lots of choco bars. We wandered around the castle a bit because there is nothing in Culrain. Then we wandered around the inside of the castle. We watched football - Scotland lost the first world cup match to Brazil 1-2. . We didn’t have much else to do so we booked ahead to Loch Lomond and Ayr (on our way to Ireland) so it was almost a waste - we had a nice view on the way up. It didn’t get dark here at all. It’s only a hundred miles north to the North sea, and a little past that to the arctic circle.

June 11, 1998 - Loch Lomond (Balloch) - Rating: 5

Long train ride down - change at Perth. Change at Glasgow - to Balloch. That is on Strathclyde transport - kinda like the DC metro, but out of Glasgow. So we end up in down town Balloch. There is nothing here. The tourist office is across from the train.. We take a taxi to the hostel which is a few miles away. It is a nicer "castle" like place than Carbisdale and it is warm. We go walking in the woods. We find what must have used to be a beautiful walkinground and a man made pond. It must once have looked incredible.

June 12, 1998 - Ayr - Rating: 7

Taxi ride back to the train then on to Glasgow to find out about the ferries to Ireland. What a waste. After an hour of going bunches of places we were told to get the tickets when you get to Stranraer. So on to a Stathclyde for Ayr. But we got a small map of the town from the info place right next to the train and soon (about 15 minutes walk) found the Ayr hostel. Follow the sign. They are more right than you know. Dead end beach streets abound. Kinda felt like ocean city but nicer. We got a 4 bedroom together. Lunch which was unbelievable. A 3 course lunch. We had no breakfast. We had soup and bread, breaded haddock, chips and peas, vanilla ice-cream (for 2.95 each of us) and a half pint of cider. It was chilly. We went to the beach for awhile then off the find dinner. Well after such a great lunch we decided to opt for Burger King again. We saw the teeny boppers doll up and go to the kid club because it was Friday night. We saw 12-16 year olds smoking and dolling up. We returned to Finlay’s (lunch place) for a few pints. Melanie had 2/12 of cider, Chris had 1 cider and 2 Guinness. We watched a good match on the big screen. On the way back to the hostel we went to the beach again to splash around - our pants got soaked.

June 13, 1998 Stranraer-Belfast-Dublin-Howth - Rating: 3 (Stranraer), 1 (Belfast), 0 (Dublin), 2 (Howth)

"The day from hell" The day starts off leaving Ayr hostel and stopping at a mom and pops for bacon rolls and also a coke each to eat while waiting for the train to Stranraer. Fine so far. Nice scenic ride down. Once there no shuttle so we had to walk a bit to the Sea Cat ferry terminal. Nice wait in the lounge then on the fast ferry. 1 ½ hours to Belfast. The seas were "a little rougher than normal" . Arrive in Belfast around 15:00 or so. We had to walk a ways to the central train station to get the train to Dublin. Arrive in Dublin 18:10. We picked up a rowdy crowd of drunken Irishmen coming from a wedding reception and going to another one in Dundalk. We chatted with 2 young very drunk guys who sat across from us. The only nice people we met in Ireland. One of them gave us each a cigarette.. We got lost once in Dublin because we couldn’t find the info office and we headed in the wrong direction because the "Lets Go" book needs better directions to the Dublin hostel. So we are in the wrong part of town and we decide to ask one of the many Garda (police. There are more Garda on one block of O’Connel Street than there were in all of Scotland that we saw) around for directions. Meanwhile Chris is getting the bump and pick treatment but he doesn’t carry anything much in his pockets. They tried to get Melanie but banged into her pack and just moved on. The 2nd and completely friendliest person in Ireland was the Garda who pointed us in the right direction. So it is a long march somewhat up hill in the opposite direction only to find the hostel still isn’t in a good neighborhood and you need to get buzzed in. We find that they have no room for anymore females, but room for males. So out to find other accommodations. It is getting late on a Saturday night and we stop at every hostel and b&b to find the town completely booked. So on to the train station. Then Chris decide we go to Howth because there is a train every 13 minutes. We have no cash, but the train station lets us charge the DART tickets. On to Howth and a DART train ride (Dublin Area Rapid Transport) where wild children stormed the cars.. We had been tailed by many roving bands of teens/young adults, and only the many Garda kept them from picking us off. Also, an old guy reached for Melanie in an attempt to grab her on O’Connel Street in Dublin. Never go there. It was a dangerous town and we had no where to stay and we were tired and hungry. We arrive finally in a resortish but expensive looking town. We stopped at a hotel and they said they are all booked so maybe are all the other places because its a Saturday. But they tell us there is a hotel down the road to the right. So we go. We stop a ways down the road at the first place we see, a ritzy joint called the Howth Lodge Hotel. The girl at the counter told us to wait then she went to go get a guy. He came out and talked to Chris. He told Chris it was very expensive to stay there but Chris said we’ll pay what we have to. They had ONE room open only because it was next to the ballroom where a party was going on. It was huge. It was a bed and bath. That was all we cared about. He cut us a deal because of the noise for only 60 pounds. 12 more than the b&b in Glasgow that was falling apart. The man had originally told Chris over 100 pounds to stay the night.

June 14, 1998 -Howth-Dublin-Belfast-Stranraer - Rating: as above

It was actually a rather calm day. We had to wait until 14:15 for the next train to Belfast because it was Sunday. On the train outside of Dundalk we went to the buffet cart and in Belfast back to the Sea Cat terminal for the 20:30 "flight’ to Stranraer. We had to wait about 2 hours. On board we had sandwich and soda and crisps. We made it to Stranrear and right at the terminal found a b&b with vacancies and for only 30 pounds but cash only. It was a much better place than Glasgow and breakfast in the a.m. was good - a whole pot of tea to.

June 15, 1998 - Stirling - Rating: as above

We are at least happy to be safe in Scotland. We went to Glasgow to go on to Oban then Ben Nevis then Skye but plans changed cause we missed the 12:42 to Oban and there was not another one until 18:00. We went from Glasgow to back to Stirling to go on to Avienmore. We didn’t get a room together and Melanie got a couch at that. We ate at The Arches for dinner - both had curry chicken. Chris had "the pie" again. (apple pie with cream… real cream. Like the liquid kind. Yummy) Before dinner we had pints and garlic bread and watched a football match at O’Neils, a nice Irish pub in Stirling. After diner back to O’Neils for the night game and a few more pints.

June 16, 1998 - Avienmore - Rating: 6

So went to Avienmore. Got there about 13:45 or so. We Dropped off our stuff and went for a walk in the nature preserve. About 14:30 we were at the top of the mountain. We did not set out to do that at all but once we started up we kept going higher. Then we found the pile of stones and added our own, we also took a couple rocks we found along the way. We were climbing virtually vertically at times, and this mountain was several thousand feet tall. The scenery was beautiful. We wound our way down by 15:30 in time to find somewhere to eat and enjoy the match of Scotland vs. Norway. At the Café Mambo. There was a great young crowd and much spirit. Final score was tied 1-1.

June 17, 1998 - Inverness - Rating: as above

We went all the way back to Inverness for the Chile. It was worth it. Melanie ate all of it this time. We also did a lot of shopping. Melanie bought a hand knit sweater. 101.00 pounds, but worth it. Melanie also go a sealing wax stamp and wax. Chris got his sgian dubh - nice, antler handle with a heather jewel and a kilt pin with a heather jewel, a hat, some patches, and a pin. We got snacks at the safeway after. We took our only horror tour, only 5 pounds each. Kinda funny. We got back and found the TV room lounge and member kitchen at Inverness.

June 18 - 20, 1998 - Ayr - Rating: as above

We did a lot of wandering around the town and spent a lot of time down at the beach. We walked along the beach south a couple miles and found a ruin that we climbed about. One night we played in this really nice park on the beach. It was warm… a whole 60 degrees, maybe. Warmest weather yet. The sun sets at or around 22:14 here.

June 21, 1998 - Glasgow - Rating: as above

We found the hostel here, finally. We got everything together so we could catch our flight at 12:15 on the 22nd.

Failte Don Ghaidealtachd - "Welcome to the Highlands" (Glasgow Center Street Train Station)

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Last Updated: October 26, 2000 @ 09:11 EST