South Africa Journal

Alpine Meadows

Friday, July 7

We had left open our plans on leaving Geneva; depending on the weather; but since it was good, and the reports promised it would remain good for at least several days; we took the scenic route around the north side of Lake Geneva and then over the Alps via the town of Gstaad back into the center of Switzerland; known as the Bernese Oberland (highlands).

I had debated whether we should plan to go to the Jungfrau -- the highest train station in Europe; or up the Schilthorn; one valley over. In the end we opted for the Schilthorn which offers a revolving restaurant with a 360 degree view of the Jungfrau among others. By contrast, the Jung Frau, although higher, offers, only 180 degrees. I got an expert opinion from a former Ecole student who owns one of the major hotels in Grindlewald: he highly recommended the Schiltorn in part because a local bank was running a special excursion rate for its employees to visit the Jungfrau and he suggested it might feel like Times Square up there.

Using the Internet as a guide, I selected the village of Murren and the tiny village of Gimmelwald as the ideal place to enjoy the pastoral life of the Berner Oberland. From there we headed scross the Kleine Scheidegg into the major tourist town of Grindlewald, where, unfortunately, my friend's hotel, the Park Schoenegg, was fully booked. Lluckily for us, we were able to swim there is the most beautiful pool with windows on two sides taking in the evening shadows of the north wall of the Eirger.

On one of our train rides we got talking with an American couple who said they were still waiting to discover if the Swiss did anything wrong. We had found various foibles in our travels; but the point is well taken: The trains certainly run on time; the bathrooms are always immaculate and life; if not the weather; is most predictable. Our biggest challenge was trying to figure out which of the various Euro- and Swiss passes offered the best deal for our travels; and in the end concluded that my 50 per cent off pass, which was consistently accepted on everything from the tiniest funicular to the most expensive panorama trains; offered the best savings. It cost ninety francs -- fifty-five dollars; and was good for thirty days. Chris bought a special pass that offered three days of completely free travel and four days at 50 percent; but we kept running into situations where it was not accepted: Oh well; much more important was the fact that the weather was good at every turn! It is the view-- not the trains and certainly not the food that makes Switzerland worth a visit.

By the end we had traveled so much; on so many different vehicles; that we had certainly got our money's worth out of both kinds of passes -- we took a paddlewheel boat across lake Brienz, and smaller steamboat across lake Lucerne, a steam train up the Rothorn, and a cogwheel train into Grindlewald and over the Kleine Scheidegg. We tried out all kinds of funiculars, cable cars and smaller gondolas; and even managed some genuine hiking above Grindlewald.

We returned to the Ecole for three quiet days with my friend Sonia and her children Max and Sara. This time it is very quiet, with both alumni and students long gone. One one rainy day Chris and I took Max and Sara to Lucerne to the fabulours museum of transportation and on another we headed to the top of Planplatte in blustery winds. "In my day" the only way to get to the top of Planplatte was on foot, but now it is just a gentle walk down the Reutistrasse to the cablecar. No matter, the view from the top is still fabulous.

I trust the next message will not be delayed as long:.

The Ecole d'Humanite. Only two of the current buildings were there in 1962.
Some have been replaced and many added.