In your harvesting of herbs, avoid stalks that are too thick and woody.

The wood of a plant refers to a large branch or small trunk that can be cut into manageable pieces. Wood is probably the least used part of plant for medicinal purposes. It is more suited to adding flavor and smoking foods.

The term herbage means the combined leaves, stalks, and flowers collected together when plants begin to flower.

How you harvest herbs depends on what you are harvesting and what you will do with them. There are, although, a few general rules.

Be familiar with the different parts of plants.

The first harvest is in spring when herb seedlings are thinned.

Harvest sparingly early in the season and make several major harvests as the herbs come into bloom.

Never collect or store poisonous and non-poisonous plants together. Do not handle plants when you have open cuts or sores on your hands or skin. This is to prevent direct absorption of chemicals or irritants.

Start your harvest in early morning, after the sun has evaporated the dew, but before it has dissipated the plants essential oils. Do not gather more material than you can work with in one morning. The essential oils are most concentrated when the flower buds are just about to blossom. There are of course exceptions: hyssop, oregano, thyme, and the mints are harvested when their blossoms are at peak. Yarrow, camomile, and goldenrod are also harvested at peak of bloom.

Select for harvest only the best fresh greens and handle them as little as possible.

When gathering herbs for immediate use, snip at the center of single stemmed herbs such as basil to encourage bushy side growth. Harvest the outermost leaves leaving the crown to continue growing undisturbed.

Trim back perennials by about 1/3 of their seasons growth. For shrubby plants such as rosemary, prune the plant to about 1/2 of years growth.

The major harvests are in July and September. The actual times will vary according to weather and locale. Tradition has regarded September as harvest season. Toward the end of month is the harvest moon, the full moon that appears nearest the autumnal equinox. For centuries farmers have harvested crops under the light of the Harvest Moon.

Harvesting can continue as the need and plant growth permit, usually until early fall. Annuals can be harvested until first frost. Perennials should be allowed to grow unimpeded for 40-60 days before the first frost so they can harden off.

Cut flower stalks before the blooms are fully open. They will continue to open as they dry. Hang in a dark place with freely circulating air.

For the harvesting of seed, cut stalks before seeds begin to shatter from seed heads. These may begin to ripen late summer to early fall. Tie up seed heads on stalks in a paper bag hung upside down. The seeds will dry and fall into the bag. Shake loose any remaining seeds. Store the seeds in an airtight jar for sowing next year or future culinary use.

Collect leaves when they are young but full grown. Make sure they are free of debris. When harvesting leaves, always cut the stems, do not just strip off individual leaves. Lay the stems in a single layer so leaves do not overlap . Turn or stir herbs once or twice a day until they are dry.

Roots and rhizomes are usually dug up at the end of summer into fall. Hard, woody roots need to dry and be stored in a cool, dry place. The longer herbs are kept whole, the longer they maintain their strength. Be sure to shake off soil before storage.

Bulbs and tubers are also dug in the autumn. Be sure to wait for the leaves and aerial parts to fade and turn brown.

Bark is collected in the spring when the flow of sap is at its peak and active principles are most powerful. Make parallel cuts up and down a branch and lift off portions of bark. This will allow the plant to heal properly. Do not girdle tree or shrub: it will die. Girdling is removing the bark in one continuous circle.

Collect fruit when it begins to ripen. Ripening will continue after harvesting. Remove the seeds from mature fruit if the seed is wanted. Any fleshy covering is removed from the seeds to prevent spoilage or germination.

Herbs are dried and stored in different ways according to their consistency. Eliminating the damaging effect of heat and light is the key to drying. You must also pay attention to a plant's water content. The parts with the most liquid require the most effort to preserve. Special attention is given to the drying needs of each plant and each part of the plant. 1 square yard of open space is needed to dry 1 pound of flowers, which must be spread out to allow maximum circulation of air. Many flowers can be dried between layers of stacked newspapers as long as the ink used is non toxic.

To be successful with drying, you will need specific conditions of shade, air circulation and warmth. There are several methods for drying herbs. Hang drying is simplest. Tie herbs into bunches and hang in an airy, shady place such as an enclosed porch or attic. Hang from rafters or use a clothes drying rack. Be sure to label each herb if you are not be able to identify the plants in a dried state. It may take weeks to dry herbs in humid coastal areas. The disadvantages to this method is the dust that settles on the leaves and the possibility of mildew.

Leaves and blossoms may be air dried on a tray covered with a screen or cheesecloth in a shady, dry room. Even air circulation is necessary. Herbs with thicker leaves with a higher water content may be dried in a controlled heat environment, such as a gas oven with pilot light or an electric oven at the lowest setting.

The plants are dry when the stems are brittle and break readily.

For large woody plants, hang in bunches upside down and store in a dark place where air is able to move freely.

To dry bulbs, remove the outer coat of the bulb. Slice and dry in an oven with heat not over 100 degrees.

To dry bark, let it dry under the sun. The exception to this is wild black cherry, which should be dried in shade.

A heat source is needed to dry roots. Slice the root evenly and place on a screen. Put it into an oven set at lowest temperature (140-180). The roots will feel and sound brittle when dried. Store away from heat and light in airtight jars. Do not forget to label the jars.

Freezing is fine for some herbs such as mints, tarragon, parsley, chives, and basil. Be sure to shake loose dust and dirt. Place the herbs uncovered on cookie sheet and freeze for 1-2 hours. Remove herbs from the freezer and place in tightly sealed, labeled freezer bags. Frozen herbs will become wilted when thawed, so they do not make suitable garnishes.

Salting is a very old method for preserving herbs. The process uses layers of coarse sea salt alternated with layers of herbs in wide mouth crock. Be sure to end with a top layer of salt 1/2 inch deep. To use herbs preserved in this way, remove herbs from the crock and gently shake or rinse in tepid water to remove the salt. Try to save the salt, as it will have taken on the flavor of herb, and use it for seasoning.

Store dried herbs in airtight containers. Amber or green glass jars are best to block light. The flavor and essential oil properties deteriorate when exposed to light and heat. Check the jars after a week for signs of moisture and redry if necessary. Be sure to label your jars.

Do not keep dried herbs more than year. Bark may be kept up to 3 years.