| HISTORY |
Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of independent India, could
not have known in 1960 that the location he offered to Tibetan exiles had
prolific Buddhist roots dating back 2,700 years. The
Kangra Valley is rich in unexplored archaeological sites of great importance
to understanding Indian Buddhism; in 635 AD the Chinese monk-pilgrim, Hsuan
Tsang, recorded fifty monasteries with around 2,000 monks in this fertile
region. But, a century later, Buddhism and all its sites were eliminated
from the valley during an upsurge of Brahminical revivalism. |
| Dharamsala's earliest history is obscured by time and the successive
invasions that swept through all North India. But it is known that the
original tribes identified with Kangra's hilly tracts were Dasas - a warrior
people, later assimilated by Aryans. |
| In 1849 the British posted a regiment in Dharamsala, but the place
was not to remain a military cantonment for long. By 1855 it was a small
but flourishing hill station and the administrative headquarters of Kangra
District, which had been annexed by the British in 1848. The two main areas
at the time were McLeod Gunj, named after Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab,
David McLeod, and Forsyth Gunj, named after a divisional commissioner. |
| Lord Elgin, Viceroy of British India and a former Governor-General
of Canada, loved the forests of Dharamsala so much that, before dying here
in 1863, he asked to be buried in the graveyard of St. John's Church in
the Wilderness. Had he lived longer, Dharamsala might have become the summer
capital of British India. |
| The name Sir Francis Younghusband - leader of British India's fateful
incursion to Lhasa in 1904 - also has Dharamsala connections. In 1856 his
parents, Clara Shaw and John Younghusband, lived in a bungalow in the pine
forest above St. John's Church and later bought land in the Kangra Valley
to pioneer a tea plantation. Clara's brother, Robert Shaw, was a renowned
explorer of Central Asia and an early Kangra tea planter. |
| But in 1905 a severe earthquake changed the face of Dharamsala. Many
buildings collapsed and the whole settlement, once ravaged, was never
re-occupied. The local officials advised residents to move to the safety
of Lower Dharamsala which at that time comprised little more than a jail,
a police station and a cobbler's shop. The pine-clad hillsides continued
to flourish as a quiet health resort for the "sahibs" and "memsahibs" of
British India. |
| The visits of "sahibs" and "memsahibs" ended when India achieved independence
in 1947. McLeod Gunj then quickly became a sleepy, undistinguished village
until His Holiness the Dalai Lama, fleeing persecution in his homeland,
made it his home in exile and moved the Central Tibetan Administration
- in effect the Tibetan Government-in-Exile - from Mussoorie to here in
1960. Today, more than 8,000 Tibetan refugees consider Dharamsala their
second home. |
| PRESENT FACTS |
| Dharamsala is situated in the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh.
It lies on a spur of the Dhauladhar range, the Pir Panjal region of the
Outer Himalayas; and commands majestic views of the mighty Dhauladhar ranges
above, and the Kangra Valley below. Dhauladhar means "white ridge" and
this breathtaking, snow-capped range rises out of the Kangra Valley to
a height of 5,200 meters (17,000 feet). |
| The mountains dominate the scenery in McLeod Gunj. They form a treacherous
range creating unpredictable weather, but passes of 2,400 meters (8,900
feet) provide route for the herdsmen of the Ravi Valley beyond. |
| The Kangra Valley is a wide, fertile plain, criss-crossed by low hills.
The scenery touched the heart of a British official who wrote: "No scenery,
in my opinion, presents such sublime and delightful contrasts. Below lies
the plain, a picture of rural loveliness and repose... Turning from this
scene of peaceful beauty, the stern and majestic hills confront us... above
all are wastes of snow to rest on." |
| Dharamsala is divided into two very different parts. Kotwali Bazaar
and areas further down the valley (at the average height of 1,250 metres)
are called Lower Dharamsala, while McLeod Gunj (at the height of nearly
1,800 metres) and surrounding areas are known as Upper Dharamsala. McLeod
Gunj is nine kilometers by bus route and four kilometres by taxi route
up the hill from Kotwali Bazaar. While inhabitants of Lower Dharamsala
are almost all Indians, McLeod Gunj is primarily a Tibetan area. McLeod
Gunj is surrounded by pine, Himalayan oak, rhododendron and deodar forests.
The main crops grown by local Indians in the valleys below McLeod Gunj
are rice, wheat and tea. |
| Today, streams of Tibetan refugees from all over the world flock to
McLeod Gunj to receive blessings and teachings from His Holiness the Dalai
Lama. Western and Indian tourists and scholars come here to see the rebirth
of an ancient and fascinating civilization. The high altitude and cool
weather contribute physically to this recreation of the original Tibetan
environment. Dharamsala pulsates with the sights and sounds of old Tibet.
Though certainly more modern, life is basically Tibetan in character. Shops
strung out along the narrow streets of McLeod Gunj sell traditional Tibetan
arts and handicrafts and the aroma of Tibetan dishes lingers in the air. |
| HIS HOLINESS THE DALAI LAMA |
| His Holiness, the Fourteenth Dalai Lama of Tibet, was born on July
6, 1935 in a small farming village of Taktser in the province of
Amdo, northeast Tibet. At the age of two, following a nationwide search,
he was recognized as the reincarnation of his predecessor, the Thirteenth
Dalai Lama. He was then brought to the capital, Lhasa, in October 1939,
and formally installed as the head of state of Tibet on February 22, 1940. |
| In 1949 the newly-established communist China invaded Tibet. A year
later, His Holiness Dalai Lama was requested by the Regent, the Cabinet
and the National Assembly to assume full political authority though he
was only fifteen - three years short of traditional majority. For the subsequent
nine years, His Holiness the Dalai Lama strove to achieve peaceful co-existence
with the Chinese invaders. However, this proved impossible as the Chinese
atrocities kept on mounting, creating ever more disillusionment among Tibetans.
Tibetans aired their resentment to Chinese occupation by staging armed,
popular uprisings, which spread to the entire nation and finally erupted
in Lhasa on March 10, 1959. The Chinese responded violently to these uprisings. |
| When the situation became hopeless for Tibet, His Holiness was requested
to flee the country in order to carry on the Tibetan struggle from the
outside world. Escaping by night and in disguise, he left Lhasa on March
17, 1959, crossing safely into India on March 31, 1959 where he was warmly
received and given asylum. |
| Nearly 80,000 Tibetan refugees managed to follow His Holiness into
exile and are now resettled primarily in India, Nepal, Bhutan, Switzerland,
the United States and Canada. Seeking both to save his people and the Tibetan
culture, His Holiness began a peaceful struggle to preserve Tibet's unique
identity and regain the country's independence. |
| On 10 December 1989 His Holiness was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize.
The Nobel Committee emphasized "that the Dalai Lama, in his struggle for
the liberation of Tibet, consistently has opposed the use of violence.
He has instead advocated peaceful solutions based upon tolerance and mutual
respect in order to preserve the historical and cultural heritage of his
people." |
| HIS HOLINESS' RESIDENCE |
| The Residence of His Holiness Dalai Lama is opposite the Tsuglag Khang,
or the Central Cathedral, which is about ten minutes' walk from McLeod
Gunj. Time permitting, His Holiness receives visitors in public audiences.
Visitors can apply for public audiences at the Branch Security Office in
McLeod Gunj, near Hotel Tibet. Applications for private audiences, however,
need to be made in writing to His Holiness' Secretary several months in
advance. |
| EXPLORING TIBETAN CULTURE |
| The cultural life in Dharamsala is colourful and rich in tradition.
The fairs and festivals are occasions for relaxation. To the local Indian
traditions, Tibetan refugees have added their own festivals such as Losar
(Tibetan New Year), and His Holiness the Dalai Lama's birthday which is
celebrated on June 6 with the performance of Tibetan, Nepali and
Gaddi dances revealing the cultural mosaic that McLeod Gunj is. More recently,
tourists and students from the west have added rock music, stage musicals
and contribute other Western influences to this melting pot of peoples
and cultures. |
| THE LIBRARY OF TIBETAN WORKS AND ARCHIVES |
| The LTWA is located in the Central Tibetan Administration complex.
It was established in 1971 as a repository for ancient cultural objects,
books and manuscripts from Tibet. |
The Library has eight departments: research and translation; publications;
oral history and film documentation; reference (reading room); Tibetan
studies; Tibetan manuscripts; a museum and a
school for thangka painting and wood-carving. LTWA also has a
team of Tibetan scholars who are engaged in research, translation, instruction
and the publication of books. |
| Since its founding, the Library has acquired a reputation as an international
centre for Tibetan studies. To date, more than five thousand scholars and
research students from over thirty countries have benefitted from this
unique educational institution. LTWA offers regular classes in Buddhist
philosophy and the Tibetan language. A schedule of courses is available
from the Library office. |
| Apart from books and booklets on diverse aspects of Tibetan culture,
the Library brings out regular publications, among which The Tibet Journal
is pre-eminent. For research scholars and students, the Library offers
hostel accommodation on a first-come-first-served basis. |
| TIBETAN INSTITUTE OF PERFORMING ARTS |
| TIPA is about fifteen minutes' walk from McLeod Gunj. Established in
1959, TIPA was the very first institution in exile. It is the home of lhamo,
the arrestingly colourful and unique folk opera of Tibet. TIPA preserves
a wide repertoire of musical, dance and theatrical traditions from Tibet.
To balance the weight of tradition in its repertoire, the institute has
a modern Theater Troupe which puts on contemporary plays. TIPA also maintains
its own workshops for making costumes, masks and musical instruments. |
| TIPA trains instructors who are sent out to teach music and the performing
arts at schools and settlements throughout India and Nepal. It also runs
a schools where a mix of modern academic and traditional Tibetan education
is provided to children who are, in addition, trained in Tibetan music,
dancing and acting from an early age. Of late, TIPA has started a special
programme to teach the Tibetan performing arts to non-Tibetans. |
| TIPA holds an annual Folk Opera Festival in April. A number of folk
operas, dance programmes, plays and concerts are presented on this occasion.
It is always an exciting time to be in Dharamsala. On important national
holidays throughout the year other performances are given. An annual competition
among students is held in May or June. Special shows can be arranged for
visiting groups if the Institute's office is notified in advance. A standard
fee is charged for filming shows. |
| Artistes from TIPA have performed in many parts of the world. Plans
are underway to open a museum of Tibetan folk culture where the rich range
of regional costumes, musical instruments, masks and arts will be displayed. |
| THE NORBULINGKA INSTITUTE |
| The Norbulingka Institute of Tibetan Culture was founded by the Department
of Religion and Culture to preserve and promote Tibetan art and culture
in exile. It derives its name from the His Holiness the Dalai Lama's beautiful
summer residence, the Norbulingka (Jewel Garden), set in parkland two kilometers
from Lhasa. Fearing for the future of Tibet's cultural heritage, the Seventh
Dalai Lama, Kelsang Gyatso, established institutes of arts and science
there in 1754. |
| Today, with occupied-Tibet undergoing the bleakest period in its history,
the Norbulingka Institute in Dharamsala has taken the initiative to preserve
the roots of Tibetan culture in exile. The institute is sited in a scenic
valley below Dharamsala. When completed, it will include a Centre for Higher
Tibetan Learning. |
| AMNYE MACHEN INSTITUTE |
| Amnye Machen Institute is a centre for advanced Tibetan studies. It
was founded by four Tibetan intellectuals in June 1992 with a grant from
His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The institute addresses the limitations in
the intellectual, social and cultural life of the Tibetan people both inside
and outside Tibet. Amnye Machen is initiating systematic studies
into Tibetan lay culture, with an emphasis on Tibetan women. This area
of Tibetan studies has so far been neglected by the mainstream Tibetan
literati. The institute also endeavours to expose Tibetans to western literature
and culture by translating them into Tibetan. It brings out two very high
quality yearly journals in English, entitled Cairn and Lungta. Amnye Machen
Institute is located near the Reception Centre on Jogiwara Road, McLeod
Gunj. |
| LITERATURE AND LECTURES |
| The Tibetan community in Dharamsala publishes a number of magazines
and journals in several languages. The Library publishes The Tibet Journal,
a scholarly and international journal on Tibetan culture. The monthly Sheja
and weekly Tibetan Freedom in the Tibetan language are published by the
Department of Information and International Relations. This department
also publishes Tibetan Bulletin, a bi-monthly magazine in English, Tibbat
Desh, a bi-monthly in Hindi, and Tibet Bulletin, a bi-monthly in Chinese.
Tibetan Youth Congress brings out Rangzen in both Tibetan and English.
The Institute of Buddhist Dialectics publishes Lhaksam Tsekpa to
interpret the broad issues of western political thought and ideas. The
Department of Religion and Culture publishes Cho-Yang, a glossy magazine
on culture and Buddhism. Amnye Machen Institute publishes yearly Cairn
and Lungta in English. |
| Tibetan Review, an independent monthly journal in English, is published
from Delhi and is read by Tibetans all over the world. This publication
represents an attempt by the Tibetan community in exile both to interpret
the contemporary world for themselves and to carry the issue of Tibet to
the world at large. |
| SEMINARS AND DISCUSSIONS |
| Tibetans and visitors who are academically inclined, or simply interested
in Tibetan culture, can attend frequent lectures, seminars and discussion
on Tibetan Buddhism, language, culture, history and politics organized
by the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, Tibetan Youth Congress, Amnye
Machen Institute and Tushita. The Department of Information and International
Relations organizes a weekly Tibet Awareness Program on Thursday at Yongling
School on Jogiwara Road. |
| TIBETAN MEDICAL TRADITION |
| Over a period of 2,500 years Tibetans have perfected a sophisticated
medical tradition based on the holistic concept of mind and body. It maintains
that disease or disorders in the human body are caused when there is a
disequilibrium of psychological and physical energies. Delusion, hatred
and attachment results in ego (translated also as "I" consciousness), which
in turn disturbs the psychological energy balance, while improper food,
behaviour and bad environment disturbs the physical energy balance. |
| Tibetan doctors would normally follow three methods of diagnosis: visual,
interrogation and pulse-reading. Sometimes, they may be able to tell your
ailment by merely asking the symptoms, followed by a pulse-reading and
a look at your tongue or eyes. However, it is believed that diagnosis is
more accurate if these methods are accompanied by a urine test. |
| Tibetan medicines normally come in hard pills or powder, and most are
extremely bitter in taste. Their ingredients are predominantly herbal,
although animals products, precious stones and metals are also used. The
stones and metals are burned and de-toxified through an intricate and secret
process of alchemy. |
| Over the years, Tibetan medicine has proved most effective in curing
various chronic diseases. Its effectiveness in curing hepatitis, according
to some westerners, is miraculous. Tibetan medicine is also known for its
efficacy in curing chronic sinus-related diseases, although one has to
be on medication for a long time. |
| There are three clinics for traditional Tibetan medicine in McLeod
Gunj: the Branch Clinic of the Tibetan Medical Institute, Dr. Yeshi Dhonden's
Clinic and the Dr. Lobsang Dolma Khangsar Memorial Clinic. However, the
Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute is the major institution and is located
near Gangchen Kyishong, about five minutes' walk below the Library. |
| TIBETAN MEDICAL AND ASTRO INSTITUTE |
| In 1961, a small dispensary of traditional Tibetan medicine was opened
in Dharamsala to cope with the flood of Tibetan refugees arriving every
day. Now situated near Gangchen Kyishong, the Tibetan Medical Institute
is a huge complex in a spacious compound where the fundamentals of traditional
Tibetan medical practice are taught to over fifty students per year. The
TMAI has a dispensary, an in-patient unit and a surgical ward. This clinic,
as well as its branch in McLeod Gunj, treats patients from all over the
world. |
| About two hundred different pills are produced at the institute and
distributed to thirty six branch clinics in India and Nepal. They are also
mailed abroad to meet the growing demand for herbal medicines in the west.
The phenomenal growth of the institute is an indication of the reputation
Tibetan medicine has acquired in international circles. Tibetan medicine
dates back more than 2,500 years, and respected physicians and researchers
worldwide are increasingly recognizing the effectiveness of these natural
cures. |
| The institute today is staffed by a group of Tibetan physicians - including
His Holiness the Dalai Lama's two personal doctors - who carry out research
and chemical analysis on over 2,294 drugs. TMAI physicians also go abroad
at the invitation of universities, medical institutions and groups of patients. |
| TIBETAN ASTROLOGY |
| TMAI also has an astrological department. Besides providing training
in the exacting science of Tibetan astrology, it publishes an annual lunar
calendar based on the Tibetan system of astrological calculations. The
tradition of Tibetan astrology dating back more than two thousand years.
Individual horoscopes are made by the department on request. |
| TIBETAN HANDCRAFT CENTRE |
| This carpet-weaving centre is a non-profit venture established to promote
the traditional Tibetan craft of carpet-making and to generate employment
in the Tibetan community. The Handicraft Centre is near the McLeod Gunj
Post Office. It has a showroom in the town's main street. |
| MONASTERIES, NUNNERIES AND OTHER RELIGIOUS SITES |
| Buddhism is the centre of cultural life in Dharamsala, just as it was
in old Tibet, and no aspect of Tibetan life escapes its influence. Though
secular culture is becoming increasingly rich, many of the colourful festivals
which fire the imagination of foreigners are religious in nature
and derive their inspiration from Buddhism. The focus of this cultural
life in Dharamsala is Namgyal Monastery, the tantric college which performs
rituals with and for His Holiness the Dalai Lama. |
| NAMGYAL MONASTERY |
| Namgyal Monastery was founded by the Third Dalai Lama in the late sixteenth
century to assist him in carrying out his religious activities. Since then,
the monastery has exclusively served the Dalai Lamas. In Tibet, the 175
Namgyal monks and their monastery were located in the Potala Palace, performing
spiritual duties and religious ceremonies for both the Dalai Lama and the
Tibetan Government. A distinctive feature of this monastery is its diversity
of practice: prayers and rituals of all the major schools of Tibetan Buddhism
are performed by Namgyal monks. |
| The monastery is now situated next to the Central Cathedral. On the
path along the monastery, young monks can often be seen playing badminton
and in the afternoon and evening practicing debate in the courtyard leading
to His Holiness' residence. At present, the monastery has more than 180
monks, of which the younger monks study the major texts of Buddhist Sutra
and Tantra. |
| Namgyal Monastery has also a cafe, bookshop and guest house adjacent
to the Tsuglag Khang. |
| TSUGLAG KHANG (CENTRAL CATHEDRAL) |
| Though a plain and utilitarian substitute for its far more splendid
namesake in Lhasa, also known as the Jokhang, the Tsuglag Khang is nevertheless
fascinating and peaceful. Situated opposite the residence of His Holiness
the Dalai Lama, Tsuglag Khang is known to the local Indians as the Main
Temple. It houses three main images: that of the Sakyamuni Buddha, Padmasambhava
and Avalokitesvara, the Buddha of Compassion, of whom the Dalai Lama is
the current emanation. The principal image is that of Sakyamuni Buddha,
measuring three metres high and made of gilded bronze. To its right are
the images of Padmasambhava and Avalokitesvara which are both facing Tibet. |
| The image of Avalokitesvara has a moving history. The original jewel-encrusted
image in the Jokhang (Central Cathedral) in Lhasa, was commissioned by
King Songtsen Gampo in the seventh century. Since then it had become an
object of unparalleled devotion for people throughout Central Asia. When
Red Guards ransacked the Jokhang during the Cultural Revolution, this image
and others were tossed into the streets. From these heaps of broken statues
and other religious artifacts, some Tibetans managed to salvage and smuggle
out a wrathful and a peaceful aspect of the face images of the Avalokitesvara.
Passing through many hands, these face images finally found their way to
India via Nepal in 1967. One year later, another wrathful image of Avalokitesvara
and one of Amitabha, the Buddha of Boundless Light, reached India through
Nepal in a similar way. |
| These faces are encased as precious relics into the newly-sculpted
image of the Buddha of Compassion in Tsuglag Khang. The new Avalokitesvara
image, which was consecrated in 1970 (the Iron Dog Year of the Tibetan
calendar), is made of silver and has eleven faces, a thousand arms and
a thousand eyes. |
| In addition, Tsuglag Khang houses the entire set of the Buddhist canons,
Kagyur and Tengyur. Kagyur is the direct teaching of the Buddha while Tengyur
is the collection of later commentaries on Kagyur by Indian Buddhist scholars. |
| In 1992 a new prayer hall was added to the Tsuglag Khang complex with
fine frescoes of the Kalachakra tantra cycle. The Central Cathedral is
also the site of public prayers, sermons and certain religious festivities,
including monastic dances. A constant stream of devotees turn prayer wheels
as they circumambulate the cathedral. |
| NAMGYALMA STUPA |
| Surrounded by prayer wheels, this Buddhist stupa, is located in the
centre of McLeod Gunj. Erected as a memorial to those Tibetans who lost
their lives fighting for a free Tibet, Namgyalma Stupa stands as a monument
to the determination of a suppressed people to preserve their distinctive
way of life against overwhelming odds. With a statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha
enshrined in a small chamber, the stupa is built in the tradition of the
third century Indian Emperor Ashoka and represents peace and progress.
Day and night, devotees turn prayer wheels as they circumambulate the stupa,
reciting mantras. |
| GADEN CHOELING NUNNERY |
| Gaden Choeling Nunnery, near Yongling School, on Jogiwara Road, was
started in 1973 by two devoted nuns, Ngawang Chozin and Ngawang Peldon.
Beginning with only twelve nuns, the present strength of the nunnery is
over a hundred. The daily routine in the nunnery consists of meditation,
prayer and debate, the reading of scriptures, the performance of religious
ceremonies and the training of young nuns. |
| DOLMA LING AND SHUGSEB NUNNERIES |
| These nunneries were founded in the early 1990s to house and educate
nuns escaping religious repression in Tibet. Shugseb lies in a quiet forest
setting; take the path beside Om Restaurant and descend for around a kilometre. |
| Nuns from the original Shugseb nunnery, near Lhasa, have spearheaded
many courageous freedom demonstrations and are today either expelled or
imprisoned. Shugseb in Dharamsala is a tranquil retreat for 42 nuns from
Tibet - many of them former political prisoners - who follow the Nyingma
school of Tibetan Buddhism. The original Shugseb was founded by the legendary
twentieth century female saint, Ani Lochen (or Jetsun Rinpoche), who died
aged 130 in 1950. |
| Dolma Ling is a twenty-minute ride south-east of Dharamsala, neighbouring
the Norbulingkha Institute. The four-acre site, designed to accommodate
up to 300 nuns in future, currently houses over 100 "new arrival" nuns
from Tibet - many former victims of Chinese torture and oppression. Phase
Two of this ambitious project will add a temple and Institute for Higher
Tibetan Studies to the current accommodation infrastructure. |
| DIP-TSE-CHOKLING MONASTERY |
| The idyllic, golden-roofed Dip-Tse-chokling monastery can be seen in
the wooded valley from the Central Cathedral and several other points in
McLeod Gunj. It is located below McLeod Gunj. Apart from the Tibetan monks,
Tsechokling has a small number of foreign Buddhist students who study and
reside there. It also offers a guest house. |
| THE INSTITUTE OF BUDDHIST DIALECTICS |
| Monks from all schools of Tibetan Buddhism join this unique institution
to study scriptures through the art of dialectics, a method of debate that
tests one's knowledge of Buddhist philosophy and the veracity of all the
hypothetical beliefs and knowledge - including the teaching of the Buddha.
This is in accordance with the teaching of Buddha, who said that nothing,
including his own teachings, should be taken as the truth until it is proved
to be so through objective analysis. Tibetan Buddhism, especially the later
Gelug School, emphasizes logic as a key to understanding the deeper significance
of Buddhism. |
| The Institute was opened in 1973. It offers two main courses in the
study of Buddhist philosophy: a seven-year course in Prajnaparamita (The
Perfection of Wisdom) and a three-year course in Madhyamika (Nagarjuna's
Treatise on the Middle Path). The training offered is comprehensive; besides
the prescribed courses, the students study western philosophy, political
science, Tibetan literature, script and poetry. Though the bulk of the
students are Tibetans, Western, Indian, Mongolian and other Asian students
lend the school an international character. The Institute has a branch
school near a village called Gaggal, which is roughly fourteen kilometres
from McLeod Ganj. |
| NECHUNG MONASTERY |
| Just below the Tibetan Library in Gangchen Kyishong is the splendid
new Nechung Monastery - the seat of Nechung, the state oracle and protector-deity
of Tibet. Nechung has acted as spiritual guide to the Tibetan Government
since the eighth century. The physical medium is called Nechung Kuten.
When the medium enters into a trance-like state, the protector-deity, Dorjee
Drakten, takes possession of his body and gives advice and predictions
to the Dalai Lama and Tibetan leaders in exile. He is especially associated
with the Dalai Lamas and plays an important role in the search for the
incarnations of each Dalai Lama. About seventy monks study here and carry
on the secret and sacred ritual surrounding the medium. |
| The original Nechung Monastery in Lhasa had 115 monks in 1959. The
monastery was razed to the ground during the Cultural Revolution. However,
six monks managed to escape to India to continue the complex traditions
of the Nechung institution. Nechung Monastery also runs a popular guest
house and cafe. |
| GADONG MONASTERY |
| Located in Gangchen Kyishong, Gadong Monastery is the seat of the Tibetan
Government's second oracle, known as Gadong. Today Gadong Monastery has
fifteen monks and is largely supported by its restaurant and guest house. |
| TUSHITA RETREAT CENTRE |
| Founded in 1972 by the late Lama Thubten Yeshi, the spiritual director
of the Foundation for the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition, Tushita
is situated just above McLeod Gunj in a very quite and peaceful wood, a
characteristic which makes it an ideal place for meditation and spiritual
retreats. The centre is residential and open throughout the year for both
individual and group retreats. |
| Tushita provides frequent courses on various aspects of Tibetan
Buddhism. A schedule of upcoming courses is always available. In thelate
1980s, a young Spanish boy, born in Barcelona, was recognized as the reincarnation
of Lama Thubten Yeshi. |
CALENDER OF ANNUAL RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES AT
NAMGYAL MONASTERY |
| Tibetans follow a lunar calendar which changes from year to year. The
year begins in February or early March, depending on the calculations of
the Astrology Department of TMAI. To identify the dates of the following
events, consult the annual calendar published by the Tibetan Medical and
Astro Institute. The first Tibetan month generally begins in February. |
 First Tibetan Month:
New year Celebration and Great Prayer Festival. Ritual Cake Offerings. |
| Second Tibetan Month:
Ground ritual, Creation of Mandala, and Cohesive Rites and worship of
Vajrakilya for ten days. (Also, Tibetan Folk Opera Festival performed at
TIPA). |
Third Tibetan Month:
Propitiation ceremony for three days starting on the eighth day of the
month. Ground Ritual, Ground Ritual Dance for four days. Creation of
Coloured Sand Mandala, followed by seven days of Cohesive Rites and worship
of Sri Kalachakra. |
| Fourth Tibetan Month:
Ground Ritual of Sri Guhyasamaja for four days, followed by five days of
Cohesive Rites and Worship, Buddha Purnima (Tib: Saka Dawa) on the full
moon celebrating the Birth, Enlightenment and Death
of Sakyamuni Buddha. |
| Fifth Tibetan Month:
One Hundred Thousand Ritual Cake Offering to Maha Guru (Padmasambava) for
five days. Incense Burning Ceremony, Invocation of Dharma Protectors on
the birthday of His Holiness the Dalai Lama (July 6). |
| Sixth Tibetan Month:
Ground Ritual of Sri Cakrasambava for four days, followed by five days
of Creation of Coloured Sand Mandala and Cohesive Rites and Worship, and
Burnt Offerings. |
| Seventh Tibetan Month:
Training of Ritual Dance, Drawing proportions of Mandala, Chanting
and the art of making Ritual Cakes during the summer retreat. |
| Eighth Tibetan Month:
Ritual Cake Offerings and Cohesive Rights, Ragridol of Palden Lhamo for
seven days. |
Ninth Tibetan Month:
Ground Ritual of Bairava for three days, followed by five days of
Creation of Mandala, Cohesive Rites and Worship,
and Consecration Ceremony of Gelek
Charbeb concluded by a Brunt Offering. |
Tenth Tibetan Month:
Ritual Cake Offering and Cohesive Rites of Palden Lhamo for seven
days. |
Eleventh Tibetan Month: Training in Ritual Dance; on the
twenty ninth day, Ground Ritual
Dance, Goddess Dance and others. |
Twelfth Tibetan Month: The Great Annual Ceremony of Atonement
at the conclusion of the
year for seven days and chanting of Invocation Prayers
of the Protectors and Oracles of Tibet. |
| CENTRAL TIBETAN ADMINISTRATION |
| The Central Tibetan Administration (CTA) was first established in Mussoorie
on April 29, 1959, soon after His Holiness the Dalai Lama reached India.
Then in May 1960 it was moved to Dharamsala, and is now located half way
between Kotwali Bazaar and McLeod Gunj, in an area named Gangchen Kyishong.
Gangchen Kyishong is a Tibetan phrase meaning "happy valley of snow". |
| The departments which make up the CTA work towards the Tibetan people's
struggle for independence and survival. They function according to the
Charter of Tibetans in Exile which is, in effect, a constitution based
on modern democratic principles. |
| THE TIBETAN SUPREME JUSTICE COMMISSION |
| This is the highest judicial authority of the Tibetan Administration.
It adjudicates civil cases in the Tibetan community as long as they do
not clash with the ineterst of host governments' laws. It, however, does
not handle criminal cases as these are the prerogatives of the host governments.
The Chief Justice Commissoner is appointed directly by His Holiness the
Dalai Lama. |
| THE ASSEMBLY OF TIBETAN PEOPLE'S DEPUTIES |
| The Assembly of Tibetan People's Deputies is an elected legislative
body - the equivalent to a parliament. It consists of forty six members
(forty three directly elected by Tibetan exiles the world over, and three
nominated by His Holiness the Dalai Lama). In addition to its parliamentary
duties, the Assembly elects ministers who form the Tibetan cabinet (Kashag). |
| THE KASHAG |
The Kashag (Cabinet) is the highest executive authority of the Central
Tibetan Administration (CTA). Its members report to His Holiness the Dalai
Lama and the Assembly of Tibetan People's
Deputies. The present Kashag consists of eight kalons (ministers).
The Kashag is serviced by a secretariat runs the Tibetan Computer Resource
Centre, the Planning Council, and the Reception Centre for new refufees
from Tibet. |
| CONSTITUTIONAL COMMISSIONS |
| THE ELECTION COMMISSION |
The Election Commission is an autonomous body of the CTA. It conducts
the election of members to the Assembly of Tibetan People's Deputies, members
of the Kashag, and the heads of different
settlements as and when necessary. |
| PUBLIC SERVICE COMMISSION |
| The Public Service Commission is another autonomous body of CTA. Its
main function is to recruit, train and appoint civil servants to serve
in the Central Tibetan Administration. |
| AUDIT COMMISSION |
| This is also an autonomous body responsible for auditing the accounts
of all the departments of the Central Tibetan Administration and its subsidiaries.
This commission acts as a watchdog on the Central Tibetan Administration
and all public organizations of the exile Tibetans. |
| The heads of the three foregoing autonomous units are appointed directly
by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. |
| DEPARTMENTS OF C.T.A. |
| DEPARTMENT OF RELIGION AND CULTURE |
| This department looks after the spiritual and cultural aspects of
the Tibetan community. It oversees and co-ordinates the activities of all
Tibetan religious institutions. It encourages the
preservation and propagation of Buddhist learning, thought and the culture
of Tibet. It also maintains close touch with Buddhist organizations throughout
the world. At the moment, there are 181 monasteries and eight nunneries
with enrollments of over 17,000 monks and 600 nuns respectively. |
| DEPARTMENT OF HOME |
Responsible for planning the rehabilitation of Tibetan refugees, this
department looks after the welfare of twenty one agricultural settlements,
eleven scattered communities, eight agro-industries and four carpet-weaving
cooperatives in India, as well as thirteen settlements and handicraft societies
in Nepal. It works in close collaboration with the Indian authorities,
and helps Tibetans
through its registered relief wing - Central Tibetan Relief Committee. |
| DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION |
This department administers eighty four schools in India, Nepal and
Bhutan, serving about thirty thousand children, which form seventy percent
of the children in exile. A further fifteen or twenty
percent goes to private schools. The total school enrollment rate is
eighty five to ninety percent. Out of the eighty four schools, thirty come
under the Central Tibetan School Administration of the
Government of India. |
| DEPARTMENT OF FINANCE |
| This department runs twenty four business enterprises in India, Nepal
and the United States to generate funds for the operational expenses of
the Central Tibetan Administration. An important source of its income is
the regular voluntary contribution from Tibetans throughout the free world.
The Department of Finance also formulates the annual budget of the CTA. |
| DEPARTMENT OF INFORMATION AND INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS |
| The task of this department is two-fold: it undertakes the international
relations activities of the Tibetan Administration through the network
of Offices of Tibet abroad, and disseminates information on all aspects
of Tibet through both print and audio-visual media. The department publishes
regular periodicals in five languages: Tibetan, Hindi, English, Chinese
and Arabic. Various desks of the department monitor human rights and environmental
conditions in Tibet, as well as Chinese affairs. The department also acts
as the protocol office of the CTA and assists visitors, mainly media personnel,
and liaises with Tibet Support Groups throughout the world. |
| DEPARTMENT OF SECURITY |
| The primary duty of this department is to ensure the personal security
of His Holiness Dalai Lama. It also has a research wing which gathers information
on developments in occupied Tibet and China. |
| DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH |
| This department runs sixty one Primary Health Care centres and six
referral hospitals in almost all the Tibetan communities in India and Nepal.
The Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute in Dharamsala is an autonomous
body under the auspices of the Department of Health. The institute specializes
in traditional Tibetan medical care and has set up thirty six branch clinics
in various parts of India and Nepal. |
| PLANNING COUNCIL |
The Planning Council is responsible for studying and improving the
human, physical and financial resources in developing the Tibetan refugee
community and the CTA. It aims to institutionalize the
planning process within the Tibetan community. The Planning Council
is also responsible for integrating, co-ordinating and setting priorities
among the many developmental activities undertaken within the Tibetan community
in exile. |
| TIBETAN COMPUTER RESOURCE CENTRE |
| Departments, organizations and individuals can obtain computer services
here. It runs an e-mail service, called TibetNet, which everyone is welcome
to use. |
| TIBETAN OFFICES AND ORGANIZATION IN McLEOD GUNJ |
| BRANCH SECURITY OFFICE |
| Located on the Bhagsunag road in McLeod Gunj, about two minutes' walk
from Hotel Tibet, this office is responsible for arranging public audience
with His Holiness the Dalai Lama and helping Tibetans to obtain and renew
their residential permits from the Indian authorities. |
| TIBETAN WELFARE OFFICE |
| As the name suggests, this office is responsible for looking after
the welfare of Tibetans in Dharamsala. It has, in recent years, undertaken
garbage cleaning and recycling campaigns, and has opened the eco-friendly
Green Shop on Bhagsunag Road, which, amongst other things, sells boiled
and filtered water to discourage people from using mineral water as this
results in ever-growing pile of discarded plastic bottles. The office is
located beside the Branch Security Office. |
| BRANCH OFFICE OF INFORMATION |
| This Office-cum-publication sales outlet is located across the main
street from the chorten in McLeod Gunj. It sells books, magazines, video
and audio tapes, photos, etc. on His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Tibet. |
| THE TIBETAN YOUTH CONGRESS (TYC) |
| TYC is a worldwide non-governmental group with over ten thousand members.
It is the largest, and one of the most politically active Tibetan organizations
in exile. To provide a forum for non-Tibetans to assist in its activities,
TYC has started The International Friends of TYC. The Congress' office
is located close to Hotel Tibet. |
| THE TIBETAN WOMEN'S
ASSOCIATION (TWA) |
| TWA is an organization of Tibetan women working for the political reedom
and social upliftment of Tibetan women. Through branch organizations in
each Tibetan settlement in exile, TWA assists groups and individual women
on a day-to-day basis, and launches projects to address specific needs
such as education and welfare, taking care of the elderly and children.
They are involved with the rehabilitation and education of nuns escaping
from Tibet. In the recent years, the association has undertaken a campaign
to raise the political awareness of Tibetan women in order to encourage
them to participate fully in the political process of the exile community.
TWA's office is located above Delek Clinic on Bhagsunag Road. |
| RECEPTION CENTRE |
| This was opened in 1990 to look after the growing number of new refugees
escaping from Tibet. The refugees usually arrive first in Nepal, from where
they make their way to Dharamsala via Delhi. There are branch reception
centres in Kathmandu and Delhi where the new refugees are given free food
and lodging, and guided to their onward destinations. |
| The Reception Centre also helps the new refugees to find employment,
join schools and monasteries, or start small business enterprises in India,
for which it provides capital and training. |
 TIBETAN
DELEK HOSPITAL |
| The establishment of Delek Hospital represents one of the first Tibetan
ventures into the field of western medical science. Though assisted by
volunteer doctors and dentists from the west, Delek Hospital is managed
entirely by Tibetans in exile. |
Like other Tibetan institutions in Dharamsala, the hospital has seen
rapid growth since its founding in 1971. Delek has a surgery and maternity
ward, as well as an out-patient clinic, laboratory and
pharmacy. One unit works solely towards the eradication of tuberculosis
in the Tibetan community. There is also a mobile team for community health
and an eye clinic. The hospital trains Tibetan health workers for practice
in the Tibetan settlements, where their skills are greatly needed. Like
the Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute, Delek Hospital offers medical
care to all for a nominal fee. Those who cannot afford to pay are given
free medical treatment. |
| TIBETAN CHILDREN'S VILLAGE (TCV) |
| The Tibetan children's Village runs a chain of fifteen schools, with
over ten thousand students, in different parts of India. The main village,
known as the Upper TCV, is based on a hill two kilometres from McLeod Ganj.
It educates and looks after the upbringing of about three thousand student,
most of whom are orphans and new refugees from Tibet. |
| Upper TCV consists of thirty eight homes, four hostels and a baby room
to care for months-old infants through to boys and girls of sixteen. It
has modern school buildings ranging from nursery to high school, sports
grounds, staff quarters, a dispensary, a handicraft centre, etc. These
are spread over an area of about forty three acres. |
| YONGLING SCHOL |
| The Yongling school was started by a young Tibetan social worker to
look after the educational needs of kindergarten children before they are
eligible for established schools like TCV. In winter, Yongling school also
acts as a home to children whose parents go down to the plains of India
to sell garments. This winter-oriented business is estimated to be the
economic mainstay of approximately fifty percent of the refugee community.
Another twenty percent are partially reliant on this business. |
| FACTS AND FIGURES ON DHARAMSALA |
| ALTITUDE |
| Between 1,250 and 1,982 metres. |
| TEMPERATURE |
| Maximum 38 degree celsius in June; minimum 0 degree C. in January. |
| ANNUAL RAINFALL |
| Varies between 290 and 380cm. Monsoon season is July to September. |
| BEST SEASON |
| Beginning of March through to end of June: and beginning of October
through to end of November. It rains ceaselessly in July, August and September. |
| CLOTHING |
| Woollen in winter and cotton or tropical in summer. An umbrella is
essential during Dharamsala's notorious monsoon season. |
| SHOPPING |
| One can buy Tibetan rugs and handicraft products from the shop of the
Tibetan Handicraft Centre and TCV Handicraft Centre in McLeod Gunj. Orders
for Tibetan wood and metal craft products can be made at the Tibetan Art
Gallery, located in the Hotel Tibet building complex. Besides, there are
various tiny shops offering Tibetan trinkets and imitations of Tibetan
antiques. |
| TRANSPORT |
| There is an airport about eighteen kilometers from lower Dharamsala
connecting to Delhi, Kullu, Shimla. Dharamsala can also be reached by an
overnight or day bus from Delhi, which takes about twelve to fourteen hours. |
| A more comfortable alternative would be to take a twelve-hour train
trip from Delhi to Pathankot and then a four-hour bus or three-hour taxi
ride to Dharamsala. From there buses and taxis regularly shuttle people
to McLeod Gunj. |
| POST OFFICE |
| There are small post offices in McLeod Gunj and Kotwali Bazaar. The
main Post Office is in Lower Dharamsala close to the Foreigners' Registration
Office. (Depending on the circumstances, visa extensions may be available
from the latter.) The postal code for McLeod Gunj is 176219. |
| TELEPHONE, FAX AND E-MAIL |
| International calls and faxes can be easily placed at various STD shops
in McLeod Gunj and Lower Dharamsala. E-mails can be sent and received at
the Tibetan Computer Resource Centre at Gangchen Kyishong, where all the
departments of the Tibetan Administration are located. |
| ACCOMMODATION |
| There are a number of hotels that offer board and lodging for different
budgets. Among Tibetan-style hotels, the best is Hotel Tibet. The Himachal
Tourist Department runs Hotel Bhagsu in McLeod Gunj. All the high and medium
budget hotels have bathrooms attached to rooms with running hot and cold
water. Low budget hotels have communal bathrooms with running cold water.
In these hotels one can order for hot water in buckets. Many of the hotels
offer a wide range of rooms with rents varying, say, from Rs 24 to Rs 275.
If you are planning a long and quite stay, you can rent houses from the
local Indians around Tushita Meditation Centre. |
| EATING OUT |
| The very many restaurants and cafe dotting McLeod Gunj is indicative
of the fact that the place has really become a tourist spot. One can virtually
get any type of food or their imitations. The restaurants offer dishes
starting from the universal Tibetan dishes like thukpa (noodle soup) and
momo (steamed meat dumplings) to sizzlers, sukiyaki, pancakes, pizzas and
spaghetti. For people with a sweet tooth, one can get different types of
pastries, pies and doughnuts, For health freaks, there are muesli fruit
curds, lassis and different types of shakes. Different eateries have their
own specialties and so if you intend to be in Dharamsala for some time,
it may be interesting to find out a restaurant which specializes in cuisine
to your taste. |
| TRAVEL AGENTS |
| Potala Tours and Travel across from Hotel Tibet; Tibet Tours and Travel
at Surya Shopping Complex; Ways Tour and Travels, en route to Tsuglag Khang.
Tibet Tours and Travels arranges lectures and talks on Buddhism and Tibetan
culture. |
| BOOK SHOPS |
| The branch office of the Department of Information and International
Relations (DIIR) in McLeod Gunj sells books on His Holiness the Dalai Lama
and Tibetan political affairs. The Charitable Trust Bookshop carries books
on all aspects of Tibetan life, especially on culture and religion. Bookworm,
en route to Hotel Bhagsu, and Little Lhasa Book Shop, at Surya Shopping
Complex, have a wide variety of western novels as well as books on
Tibet, India and Central Asia. |
| FURTHER INFORMATION |
| Additional questions about Tibetan life in exile should be brought
to the Department of Information and International Relations. If you have
questions about the region, the Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation
has an office quite close to the taxi stand in Kotwali Bazaar. |
| DAY TRIPS AND OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST |
| NOTE: When visiting the following places, please carry an empty
bag for garbage so that you leave the place cleaner than you found it.
And, try to give the empty plastic bags and mineral watter bottles to the
environment section of Tibetan Welfare Office. Thank you. |
| BHAGSUNAG |
| A Hindu temple lies near a beautiful waterfall surrounded by popular
picnic spots. Bhagsunag is about two kilometres from McLeod Ganj. |
| TRIUND |
| A popular nine-kilometre trek for a day or overnight stay on the 9,000
foot ridge behind the Dhauladhar range. Food is available at tea shops.
But it is always safer to carry one's own food and drink, just in case
you reach there to find the tea shops closed. There is a Forest Rest House
atop the ridge, which can be booked through Himachal Tourist Office in
Kotwali Bazaar. |
| DHARAMKOT |
| This village, twenty minutes' walk further up the hill from McLeod
Gunj, is a favourite picnic spot with a panoramic view of the Kangra Valley.
It is possible to rent houses from local Indians if you are planning a
longish stay. |
| DAL LAKE |
| About three kilometers from McLeod Gunj and next to the Tibetan Children's
Village, this small lake is brownish in colour and not nearly as impressive
as the name and reputation suggest. However, there are many interesting
walks around the lake. |
| KEREI LAKE |
| A more impressive lake, thirty three kilometers from Kotwali Bazaar.
There is a rest house thirteen kilometers from the lake for overnight stops. |
| THE MOUNTAINEERING INSTITUTE |
| Located along the road to Triund and Tushita, it provides information
about trekking and maps of trek routes. The institute requests all trekkers
to register with it before embarking on their trek. |
| NOWROJEE'S GENERAL STORE |
| This is one of the original businesses in the bazaar at McLeod Gunj;
located next to the taxi and bus stand, this shop is a veritable museum. |
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