The Odyssey of a Seahawk:
From Hilton Head, South Carolina, to Zilina, Slovakia,

with the Fulbright Teacher Exchange Program



the Grand Canal

                       

Venice: words cannot begin to describe . . .

17 September 1999
Europe is not immune to rubberneckers!!! It took me over an hour to go just three kilometers!!! I thought I was never going to get out of Vienna. I was starting to get very upset that I would never make it to Italy this weekend. Finally, I got to a point where the traffic was going, and there was a bus stopped on the side of the road. Everyone had to drive very slowly past it. It wasn't even an accident. For some reason, I was glad to see that people over the world are not that different, even though I was in credibly annoyed at the people who stopped, just as I am annoyed with them in the States. Drove through Austria and ended up taking a 5 hour nap in the parking lot of a rest stop. At 5:30 this morning, I started driving and discovered as the sun came up that I was driving through the Alps. Very high in the Alps! I'm really glad I didn't know this last night. I am not a fan of heights. Arrived in Italy-- European Union changes are already in effect--didn't have to stop and show my passport to anyone, it was like driving from Florida into Georgia, except I was driving from Austria into Italy!!!!! The roads were well marked, and I got on the toll road to Venice. The anticipation of going to Venice made me so jumpy that I couldn't sit still in the car and I could barely keep my hands on the wheel. I had a tape in the cassette player that Bob made for me (Boys and Girls, Bob!), and I couldn't help but shout out the songs as I was driving. It was still early in the morning, and "rush hour" had not yet begun, I guess, so the roads were not very crowded.

I could tell I was nearing Venice. I could smell the sea. Funny, growing up near the ocean, and living on an island, one would think that smelling the sea would not be that big of a deal, and I have only been away from home for a month. But it was really a jolt to smell the salt and the faint but sharp sea odor. Then, of course, I started crying because I was actually going to Venice!!

I drove to the ferry dock, and took the auto ferry to Lido. I had the address of a relatively inexpensive hotel, and eventually found it, but it was no longer relatively inexpensive. So I drove around Lido, and then parked the car and walked around the main district, and took the ferry back to the mainland. The ferry was great--I saw so much of Venice and the Giudecca (the island across the canal from Venice) on the 30 minute ferry ride there and back. The canal was like a major highway--small boats carrying vegetables and other goods, police boats patrolling the waterway, tourist taxis, it was quite a sight. I didn't really want to leave the car parked in the city anyway, as the thought of its being stolen terrified me, so I decided to check out the campground on the outskirts of town, Campeggio Venezia. It was perfect, huge, clean showers, $8 a night (!!) and the bus stop into Venice was right in front of the facility. So I set up, packed my backpack with notebook, pen, water, reading book, and camera, locked the car, and then caught the bus to Venice.


St. Mark's Square

I spent the next nine hours walking all around Venice. It is more beautiful and fascinating than I could have possibly ever imagined. I had a map and a self-guided walking tour book and was determined to walk through every street in Venice in the next two days. I think I was almost successful! I was amazed to hear so many American accents. It was not overly crowded, but the day was beautiful--warm, but not hot enough for shorts. I decided to put the map away and just walk. I surprised myself by walking into St. Mark's Square. Time for another cry-fest. It was beautiful. It is amazing that these massive structures are built on this island of silt held up by pilings and wooden planks. There are so many churches in Venice, but St. Mark's is one of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen. I had a coffee at one of the cafes on the square (served on a silver tray!) and I didn't bother to calculate how much it was in dollars!!! Spent a while writing post cards and watching the pigeons cover the tourists for pictures. Walked for hours until I noticed it was dark and then sat outside at a small cafe and had dinner and read a book. Then I walked for a few hours more. The last bus out to the campground left at midnight. That was the bus I reluctantly got on.

<<one of the hundreds of bridges and intricate streets

view from the Grand Canal>>


MB, the masks from Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut were made here!!


water faucets like this were everywhere, and the water must have been good, as many, many people drank from them


the "real" Venice: Saturday must be laundry day

18 September 1999
Caught an early bus into Venice (Mary Beth, you would be so proud of me!!) and was there before anything was open. Found a cafe, had coffee and read my book. Spent the day walking, reading, writing, and taking pictures. Continued my quest to walk through every street in Venice. I walked through the Ghetto, but none of the museums were opened, as it was the Jewish Sabbath (why didn't I go there yesterday?). Saw a bride and her father on a gondola on their way to her wedding. It was a very impressive sight--the gondolier was dressed in a very ornate costume, the father in a tuxedo, and the bride in a brilliant white gown. The gondola was more elaborate than usual. I went to many churches and saw lots of art and had a wonderful day. One of the things I saw was a Roman mosaic from the second century at the altar in the Lando Chapel of the Cathedral of Saint Peter the Apostle in Castello, which was the Cathedral in Venice until the title was transferred to Saint Mark's. I practically had to crawl on the bus at midnight, as I think I got shin splints from all the walking!!!!


2nd century Roman mosaic


a little jazz with your coffee?

19 September 1999
Slept until 8 this morning! Began the drive home, was not sure if I would get caught in any more rubbernecking situations! Got home in time to relax and prepare for the next week, even though I am going to miss two days next week for the Fulbright Orientation in Bratislava, the capital city of Slovakia. I haven't worked a full week yet--but I am looking forward to settling in here and begin living a "normal" Slovak life! I think this weekend was even better because it was so unplanned--I can't wait to go back next summer.
 
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