17 September 1999
Europe is not immune to rubberneckers!!! It took me over
an hour to go just three kilometers!!! I thought I was
never going to get out of Vienna. I was starting to get
very upset that I would never make it to Italy this
weekend. Finally, I got to a point where the traffic was
going, and there was a bus stopped on the side of the
road. Everyone had to drive very slowly past it. It
wasn't even an accident. For some reason, I was glad to
see that people over the world are not that different,
even though I was in credibly annoyed at the people who
stopped, just as I am annoyed with them in the States.
Drove through Austria and ended up taking a 5 hour nap in
the parking lot of a rest stop. At 5:30 this morning, I
started driving and discovered as the sun came up that I
was driving through the Alps. Very high in the Alps! I'm
really glad I didn't know this last night. I am
not a fan of heights. Arrived in Italy-- European Union
changes are already in effect--didn't have to stop and
show my passport to anyone, it was like driving from
Florida into Georgia, except I was driving from Austria
into Italy!!!!! The roads were well marked, and I got on
the toll road to Venice. The anticipation of going to
Venice made me so jumpy that I couldn't sit still in the
car and I could barely keep my hands on the wheel. I had
a tape in the cassette player that Bob made for me (Boys
and Girls, Bob!), and I couldn't help but shout out the
songs as I was driving. It was still early in the
morning, and "rush hour" had not yet begun, I
guess, so the roads were not very crowded. I could
tell I was nearing Venice. I could smell the sea. Funny,
growing up near the ocean, and living on an island, one
would think that smelling the sea would not be that big
of a deal, and I have only been away from home for a
month. But it was really a jolt to smell the salt and the
faint but sharp sea odor. Then, of course, I started
crying because I was actually going to Venice!!
I drove to the ferry dock, and took the auto ferry to
Lido. I had the address of a relatively inexpensive
hotel, and eventually found it, but it was no longer
relatively inexpensive. So I drove around Lido, and then
parked the car and walked around the main district, and
took the ferry back to the mainland. The ferry was
great--I saw so much of Venice and the Giudecca (the
island across the canal from Venice) on the 30 minute
ferry ride there and back. The canal was like a major
highway--small boats carrying vegetables and other goods,
police boats patrolling the waterway, tourist taxis, it
was quite a sight. I didn't really want to leave the car
parked in the city anyway, as the thought of its being
stolen terrified me, so I decided to check out the
campground on the outskirts of town, Campeggio Venezia.
It was perfect, huge, clean showers, $8 a night (!!) and
the bus stop into Venice was right in front of the
facility. So I set up, packed my backpack with notebook,
pen, water, reading book, and camera, locked the car, and
then caught the bus to Venice.
St. Mark's Square
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I spent the next nine hours walking all
around Venice. It is more beautiful and
fascinating than I could have possibly ever
imagined. I had a map and a self-guided walking
tour book and was determined to walk through
every street in Venice in the next two days. I
think I was almost successful! I was amazed to
hear so many American accents. It was not overly
crowded, but the day was beautiful--warm, but not
hot enough for shorts. I decided to put the map
away and just walk. I surprised myself by walking
into St. Mark's Square. Time for another
cry-fest. It was beautiful. It is amazing that
these massive structures are built on this island
of silt held up by pilings and wooden planks.
There are so many churches in Venice, but St.
Mark's is one of the most impressive buildings I
have ever seen. I had a coffee at one of the
cafes on the square (served on a silver tray!)
and I didn't bother to calculate how much it was
in dollars!!! Spent a while writing post cards
and watching the pigeons cover the tourists for
pictures. Walked for hours until I noticed it was
dark and then sat outside at a small cafe and had
dinner and read a book. Then I walked for a few
hours more. The last bus out to the campground
left at midnight. That was the bus I reluctantly
got on. |
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<<one of the hundreds of bridges and
intricate streets view from the Grand Canal>>
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MB, the masks from Kubrick's Eyes
Wide Shut were made here!!
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water faucets like this were
everywhere, and the water must have been good, as
many, many people drank from them
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the "real" Venice:
Saturday must be laundry day
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18 September 1999
Caught an early bus into Venice (Mary Beth, you
would be so proud of me!!) and was there before
anything was open. Found a cafe, had coffee and
read my book. Spent the day walking, reading,
writing, and taking pictures. Continued my quest
to walk through every street in Venice. I walked
through the Ghetto, but none of the museums were
opened, as it was the Jewish Sabbath (why didn't
I go there yesterday?). Saw a bride and her
father on a gondola on their way to her wedding.
It was a very impressive sight--the gondolier was
dressed in a very ornate costume, the father in a
tuxedo, and the bride in a brilliant white gown.
The gondola was more elaborate than usual. I went
to many churches and saw lots of art and had a
wonderful day. One of the things I saw was a
Roman mosaic from the second century at the altar
in the Lando Chapel of the Cathedral of Saint
Peter the Apostle in Castello, which was the
Cathedral in Venice until the title was
transferred to Saint Mark's. I practically had to
crawl on the bus at midnight, as I think I got
shin splints from all the walking!!!! |
2nd century Roman
mosaic
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a little jazz with your coffee?
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19 September 1999
Slept until 8 this morning! Began the drive home,
was not sure if I would get caught in any more
rubbernecking situations! Got home in time to
relax and prepare for the next week, even though
I am going to miss two days next week for the
Fulbright Orientation in Bratislava, the capital
city of Slovakia. I haven't worked a full week
yet--but I am looking forward to settling in here
and begin living a "normal" Slovak
life! I think this weekend was even better
because it was so unplanned--I can't wait to go
back next summer. |
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