Venetian Men's Clothing
Basic overview of social structure:
Strong regionalism in clothing. Differences between the Venitian empire and the city. Differences between Venice and other Italian empires or other countries.
Nearly all of our records explain what the togati wore. Where most other cultures dictated what the common folk could not wear, Venice dictated what the Togati should wear. The other legal records deal with chastisements of the fashions of young men and women.
Togati=Gentlemen (patricians 25 yrs old). The social register "The Golden Book" was locked in the 13th c. This registry contained the names of what was considered the aristocracy.
Cittadini=citizens, and common people (artisans and other manual workers).
Fabrics:
Cloth of Gold- Most sumptuous -restagno d'oro (patterned brocade with gold weft) although there also was a plain solid gold. Even more fancy was riso sopra riso-both pattern and ground were woven into tiny loops that looked like grains of rice..
Velvets- of a uniform color. could also have riso sopra riso weave. Alto e basso (pattern deeper pile than ground). Also velvet pattern woven onto plain silk ground. Or it could be plain with no pattern at all
Damasks-of a uniform color.
Plain Silk- (Raso or seda).
Zambellotto- black fabric. Often referred to as "cloth". Original name comes from camel hair, but later was given to several woolens.
There of course were also furs. Some specifically mentioned: marten, sheared lamb, fuine or wolf, Squirrel-back (dossi), Miniver
Colors:White- for Doge (same as church vestments...so also clergy?).
Gold- Doge and knights (mantle or vesta) high ceremonial occasions
Cremesino (crimson)- dyed with kermes (India) Never used for "cloth". Doge (lowest color except for morning), correct for official gowns of velvet, damask and silk.
Scarlatto- originally was a type of heavy cloth usually dyed bright red. By the end of the 15c, mean any cloth in this color. Doge wore in morning.
Black- in velvet or damask for official morning
Paonazzo or Pavanazzo (peacock)- Mystery color. Lodorico Dolce says "warm violet". One of 2 colors of Great Chancellor. Non-color (like black) Unofficial morning, or sorrow or confusion.
Beretina- undyed natural wool. Religious orders…NOT togati!
Basic garments:
Vesta or Toga- Long gown (reaching the ground), closed up the front, fastened at neck. There is a thin white line showing in pictures and believed to be a shirt. However, at a later period, of which some actual garments survive, a hidden opening in the back allows the front to be all for show.
4 distinct gowns based on season and divided by lining materials:
1.Winter- thick fur of marten, sheared lamb, fuine or wolf
2. Squirrel-back (dossi)
3. Miniver
4. thin silk (Summer)
Of special import was the shape of the sleeves:
Camisa- linen shirt
Hose- Generally required to be black, with the exception of the Doge wearing red.
Zoccoli- sandal like shoes with thick wooden soles. (see Burgundian paintings of 15th c.)
Bareta- black cap
Becho, bechetto - Black cloth or stole. This was a strip of cloth 25cm wide, worn over the left shoulder. This was allowed to both the aristocracy and the cittadini . As a badge of knighthood it was known as a stola d'oro. (fear of taunting outside of Venice) This was the remnant of the rolled hood!
Specific Offices:
Doge: red hose and shoes
Corno with linen Coif (veta) underneath.
Shoulder cape of ermine. When in armor, mantle could swing over right shoulder.
Large bell like buttons (campanoni d'ori)
9 Procuratori, Knights, Ambassadors & Capitanii (serving abroad), medical doctors- Keeping up appearances. Could wear dogale sleeves.
Senators must wear color
Knights- In addition to the dogaline sleeves, and the stola d'oro, the knight was often give a mantle and a vesta of gold cloth, referred to as a caxacha. This was a vague term given to any long and dignified gown be it on a Venetian or non-Venetian.
Pre-Togati Youths:
At 25 you were registered and became a togati. This is what you might wear before then.
1490's low belt in front forming convex chest & stomach, flat back. Hemline just below crotch level. VERY neat and precise.
Zipon- Closely fitted waist length jacket. Usually made of silk. (known outside Venice as a jupon) The hose were tied to this. It was made without sleeves and if chosen to be worn, they would tie in at the shoulder.
Saio or Saion- tunic. This was belted low in the front to produce the convex chest and stomach shape.
Over breeches- short.
Compagnie della Calza (company of the stocking): Assembled for the purpose of providing entertainments at social functions and at public holidays. Some companies short lived, some longer, some only for one occasion. Originally "young men of good family", but later also some older highly placed Venetians and some aristocratic foreigners. There are a few examples of companies formed of old and respected cittadini. One specific garment was the decorated stocking (hence the name!). Members of a compangnie would have one leg of their hose highly decorated. This was not a specific pattern that everyone body wore. More like a badge that each company would have their own pattern or design that members within that company would display. This group also was usually allowed other infractions of the dress code.
Special populations:
Venice had a Jewish population. It was the home of the first Jewish ghetto in Europe, which is claimed to have been an improvement over not allowing them at all and actually helped to establish a permanent community, which is still in existence today. As in many cultures, there were several dictates set to clearly identify the Jewish population. First it was a gold star. Later, it was decide that this badge was too easily hidden under clothing, and Jews were required to wear yellow berrettas on their head. The exception to these rules were granted to doctors and while travelling.
Foreigners and others:
As mentioned earlier, there were several very strong styles all over Europe and many people demonstrated their loyalties or leanings with the style of dress that they sported. The Venetians, always interested in the fashions of the day played quite a bit of attention to what was being worn both by visitors to their lands and what was reported back by their ambassadors abroad. Foreigners and ambassadors visiting the city were often gifted with the fabric to make Venetian style garments, instead of the garments themselves. In this manner they could be not quite a strictly Venetian in their cut.
When in Rome… (or the Venetian abroad):
It depends! Whereas many Venetians would continue to wear their big sleeves and long robes, it was permissible to wear garments styled after the country one was living in. Particular examples of this include ambassadors who were often given garments by the royalty of the area they were stationed in. These would be wearable while in that foreign land, but when either returning home to Venice or being stationed in another country, the garments would no longer be wearable. Another interesting note is that the gold chain often given to them upon departing their foreign post was considered to be a gift to the state and upon their return to Venice, sold for state funds.
Bibliography
Herald, Jacqueline. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. London: Bell &Hyman. 1981.
Newton, Stella Mary. The Dress of the Venetians 1495-1525. Avon, ENG: Bath Press, 1988.
To see some images that demonstrate these clothing pieces and styles, visit the Web Gallery of Art. http://www.kfki.hu/~arthp/index.html. They have a very easy search engine. Some of the painting to specifically look at are:
1. Arrival of the English Ambassadors (CARPACCIO, Vittore, 1495-1500)
2. Procession in Piazza S. Marco, (BELLINI, Gentile, 1496)
3. Portrait of Doge Leonardo Loredan (BELLINI, GIOVANNI, 1501)
4. Portrait of Doge Giovanni Mocenigo (BELLINI, Gentile, 1480)
5. Miracle of the Relic of the Holy Cross in Campo S. Lio (MANSUETI, Giovanni, after 1494)
6. The Miraculous Healing of the Daughter of Benvegnudo of S. Polo (MANSUETI, Giovanni, 1505)
7. Miracle of the Cross at the Bridge of S. Lorenzo (BELLINI, Gentile, 1500)
8. Two Venetian Ladies (CARPACCIO, Vittore, c. 1510)
9.Portrait of an Unknown Man with Red Beret (CARPACCIO, Vittore, 1490-93)
And there are many others for you to find on your own!
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