Our Lady Walsingham Part Two: Our Lady and Walsingham

**Note on part Two: This is the descriptive part of my narrative and necessarily follows a list. This list includes my room, the Shrine of the Holy House, the Shrine Church, the Stations of the Cross, Walsingham Priory, Little Walsingham proper, the Parish Church, the services. Also, due to the nature of this post, I cannot guarantee the same quality of writing as in the first one. The fault is entirely my own.

...where I wearily and thankfully sank into my bed in preparation for sleep. The next morning I awoke to the sounds of bird song and bright sunlight streaming into the room through the open curtains (I know it may sound cliched, but it really happened.) The first thing I did-and the last thing before falling asleep last night) was to thank God for getting me there despite my lack of preparation. He had gotten me here and that was all that mattered, the pain and travail of getting here lost in the joy of arrival, of the knowledge of Being Here in this Place; long a dream of mine. Now though, enters the difficult part of my narrative: describing the place, explaining why I came. It is nearly an overwhelming task to describe the Shrine and its surrounds. Oh the physical space is relatively easy to describe; I have books enough to help me in this. But the spiritual side, the experience of Walsingham, its meaning and significance, are harder to grasp; certainly no one single visit is capable to adequately explain why, or to explore much less exhaust, its treasures. To be fair to my task, I should need to have a fourth section, "Pilgrimage" exclusively devoted to the real reason I came, one that entails the other three and brings them together, but cannot be located in them alone. (Forthcoming) Thus, for now I shall touch on strands here that will come out there. Walsingham, it is said, begins with the Annunciation, but I shall begin with my room.

MY ROOM: This, naturally was the first thing my eyes alighted on in the morning. Though to the cosmopolitan dweller -used to big rooms with lots of space and lots of things- the room appears Spartan indeed, containing only a bed, sink, single chair and chest of drawers having three drawers, and a standing crucifix and Bible (on the chest), to me it was Heaven the night before. Though small and quickly cluttered by my things (clothes and books) it did provide an odor of sanctity and privacy for the Pilgrim so inclined. It also provided comfort and a place to unwind after a long day (and believe me I needed it) as well as for private mediation . When I came out, I noticed that each room was named: my room was "Seat of Wisdom" and adjoined "Mother of God" (room 8G) and "Our Lady of Succor" (room 7G) The ground floor is actually used for the elderly and those with special needs (thus the reason for the pillow under the sheets, giving he bed a lumpy appearance) And my bed had not only a real quilt, but also, a top-sheet and two layers of blankets, which is quite different from the school where all we have is a comforter and the bed-sheet.

THE HOSPICE OF OUR LADY: I left my room and went out to the lounges. I was greeted at the first lounge I came to (which had a writing desk and a bookshelf) by a balding older gentleman who asked me if I was the young man who had arrived late, last night?" and directed me to the refectory. Breakfast is a cold deal, with cereal, bread, orange juice. A hot breakfast was available, but it cost L1.40 and had to be purchased before breakfast. The hospice is like a living wall that surrounds the Shrine. It includes the Shrine Church, The Guild Chapel, the gardens, a convent for the Sisters of St. Margaret who tend the Shrine, the Hospice proper, the refectory, the Accommodations Office (behind a red door), the Shrine Office, The hospice proper is composed of two wings and 4 floors (ground, 1st, 2nd, 3rd) and can accommodate over 200 people with beds for 220. My wing had the main lounges the first lounge (I’ll call the green room because it was white with green trim) is also the smoker’s lounge, a central coal fireplace with sloping copper mantelpiece. Every room has a crucifix big or small; the green room had a large gold and red crucifix similar to the one in the Parish Church discussed later on down.

I was not alone at this Pilgrimage, I quickly made friends, much to my amazement, over breakfast, Adrian -a social worker- and his wheelchair bound companion Mrs. "C" (Castleton) due to recent injuries, both from Manchester, and Audrey who may or may not also be from Manchester. Both the women were elderly while Adrian was in his early thirties/late twenties. They were all repeat visitors though this was their first Easter. When I arrived Adrian and Mrs. C had already been there since the 22nd being there for 11 days before leaving the following Tuesday: this was their third or fourth year. Audrey on the other hand had been coming for over 40 years since she was 18 or 25 (I can’t remember which). After breakfast I followed my breakfast companions (Adrian and Audrey, Mrs. C declined) to the RC Church of the Annunciation for the Service of Tenebrae. Afterwards, we stopped for coffee, and Adrian showed me around the Shrine Shop and the Shrine grounds, introducing me to the Holy House.

THE HOLY HOUSE: The Shrine itself, this is the focal point around which Walsingham revolves, for it is in this house, of which Walsingham is a replica that the Annunciation to Mary took place, around which the Shrine Church is built. It is a small dwelling built of brick and plaster 23’ 6" by 12’10" -an exact copy of the Richeldis’s original replica which in turn were the dimensions copied from her vision. On the whole the House is rather simple. It is designed so that entering from the main door, one has to go around to the other side to gain entrance. On the North and South are set two narrow doors with wrought iron gates, and on the East side is set a partitioned window looking into the House in view of the Altar. Also on the East face are stones from around England -various Cathedrals and Abbeys of pre- and post- Reformation times- and the Anglican Communion, symbolizing Walsingham’s continuity with the past. They are a powerful reminder of England’s and Church history.

The Altar is painted gold-leaf with scenes (from left to right) of the Annunciation, the Nativity and visit of the Magi, and the Visitation to Elizabeth in red, blue, and green. The statue crowned and robed in Mediterranean-like splendor sits behind and above the altar in the reredos, appearing out of a rounded arch: the inside of the arch is black forming a contrast with the gold symbolizing that "In the beginning was the Word ... The Light shines in the darkness and the darkness has not comprehend it " from St. John’s Gospel. The top of the arch is a cockle shell, standing for the font of baptism. The underside of the tester (an overhanging flat canopy which serves as a sounding board) contains a large painting of the Annunciation. On either side of the Altar (North and South) are rows upon rows of lights and lamps, some on racks on the floor, some on shelves on the walls, some hanging from the ceiling, in red and blue casings. The effect is quite stunning. In the old days these lights, lit by and for pilgrims provided the only illumination in the Shrine , but now there are two (black) spotlights which shine on the altar. When I arrived for my visit everything was stripped bare in preparation for Good Friday. Only the floodlights shone on the altar ( And even then, at a later point in the day, I returned to find the Shrine in complete darkness, even the lights being turned off. I was able to catch a few fleeting moments of prayer-n-reflection each time I was there but not the major periods I was expecting). Here it is each day at 6:00 that clergy, sisters, and people assemble to recite the Rosary in honor of the Incarnation and to make intercessory prayer for the gathered petitions offered by pilgrims and the needy during the day. Immediately behind the House is the Altar of the Annunciation .

THE SHRINE CHURCH: This is the church that houses the Holy House. There are fifteen chapels situated within celebrating the 15 mysteries of the Rosary. Additionally, each chapel is dedicated to a saint. When coming in through the West doors, the first sight is that of the Annunciation Altar (Chapel of St. Gabriel and St. Vincent) . Along with the chapels, as the color guidebook says "A visitor entering the Pilgrimage Church is struck by the number of candles always burning." There are effigies for Fr. Patten, the restorer of the shrine and Bishop O’Rorke -sometime bishop of Accra in Africa- a tireless defender of the shrine. The present church. Each of the chapels is decorated. Also in the Church, on the same level as the Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament is the Orthodox Chapel. To be honest, it takes a while to get used to the Shrine Church and all its decorations. At fist glance, it may appear "gaudy" with all the gold and statues and candles, and colors and sculpture about, giving it at the same time a somber air. But, remember that "gaudy" comes from the Latin "gadios" , "to rejoice" and we can indeed see that everything in the Church has its place here, everything contributes to the worship of the living God Who sent the Annunciation to Mary by way of an Angel. It still takes some getting used to, though for the first time pilgrim or visitor. It took me a long time, and I’m still not sure I’m completely comfortable with it. When I was first brought around I was overwhelmed by the sight of it all. And yet for all the business of Shrine and Church there is a certain stillness and a silence about the Holy House that goes beyond words, a silence and a stillness that extends even beyond its walls into the village itself. Certainly I felt it. when I was in the Shrine. Another essential aspect of the Shrine Church is the Holy Well -also known as a Lady Well because of its association with Our Lady of Walsingham, (all such wells attached to a Marian Shrine are called Lady Well) - which also forms part of the Pilgrimage.. This is where pilgrims gather for a blessing by sprinkling and to drink from it. There are also 4-6 buckets available for pilgrims and other visitors to take some home with them. The Shrine does get many reports of healings resulting from the use and application of the water, but is cautious in ascribing any miraculous claims for the Well itself. While not denying that miraculous.

STATIONS OF THE CROSS: Though I didn’t see all of them, situated in the surrounding gardens are the Stations of the Cross. Highlights of the stations include the Fourth stations where there is a chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows, the 12 stations, set on a hill with three empty crosses, the fourteenth station where a full size replica of Christ’s Sepulcher (the empty tomb) and Altar of the Resurrection to remind us that death is not the end, and station 15 which is the Resurrection.. A service of the Stations is held on Fridays. Each station is carved and painted with blues, reds, greens and golds like the Shrine.

GUILD OF ALL SOULS CHAPEL OF ST MICHAEL AND ALL SOULS: This was a chantry chapel designed for the Guild of All Souls, an Anglo-Catholic devotional Guild, was built in 1965. It is obviously a church of modern design but it does fit in with the other buildings;and, like the rest of the Shrine, it shares in the Walsingham spirit of waiting. Here there is opportunity both to receive sacramental confession and to remember friends and loved ones who have gone before us in the faith. It has a sculpture of St. Michael slaying the dragon on the outside (ltiurgical) East wall. Though I did not go into the Chapel, I’m sure it partakes fully of the nature and spirit of Our Lady of Walsingham.

WALSINGHAM PRIORY: All that remains above ground are the arches of the East Face and the base of some pillars at the West as well as the "Abbey" Gate and shell of the former refectory and part of the old garden well and cistern; the remainder of the Priory was effectively demolished in the Dissolution, including the "Opus Ovum" which housed the Shrine, the companion chapel of St. Lawrence, and the whole of the Priory Church itself. The arches jut out from a closely crop field of green dotted with dandelions and daffodils (a Dutch importation long after the Priory’s demolition) A stone set in the ground marks the spot where the Holy House once stood. Benches are intersped where lately cowled canons and frocked pilgrims might have walked, cooing pigeons replace the sounds of Gregorian chant that once graced the aisles. And but a few feet away the close manicure gives way to just as cultivated woods; by this I mean paths are kept free of major debris, and daffodils grow, with signs warning visitors that flowers are cultivated and flowering bulbs may not be picked without the permission of Walsingham Estates (despite this I did pick a small Primrose flower-one of a number different wildflowers growing on the lawn. Other than that the undergrowth is let alone to grow as it will.

LITTLE WALSINGHAM: Besides the Shrine Church, the Roman Catholic Shrine, the village holds a Methodist chapel, Eastern (Russian) Orthodox Church, Roman Catholic Church (Church of the Annunciation), no less than 4 religious book/gift shops in addition to the official Shrine Shop, a second hand bookshop, two other gift shops, two newsagents/tobacconists three puns including The Bull and the Black Lion and three or four restaurants. When coming in from Fakenham, the Parish Church is the first thing you’ll see after the Slipper Chapel -its tower being the first part of Walsingham proper you’ll come to. From this angle and perspective (which is the route I followed, and which I later learned formed the last leg of the actual Walsingham Way that Pilgrims traced so many centuries ago so at least my feet trod those miles in solidarity with those who went before me) the Shrine is at the other end of the village. You follow High Street (the main road) past most of the shops, the RC and Methodist Church signs, Priory Gate until you come to the Old Pump and turn right where the road splits. (The road that continues straight ahead turns left into a car/bus? Park and turns into a single lane around the curve -I have no idea where it goes from there.) This is Common Place, upon which is the Shrine Shop -directly across from the Pump- the Bull Inn, and below it on the left, the Hospice and Shrine. It is, it is, it is a glorious thing and an equally glorious feeling to make it to Walsingham, though I don’t recommend taking my route unless you plan it in advance, leaving plenty of time for breaks. If you come in from the other direction, the road coming directly from Norwich without going across to Swaffam or Dereham (the whole thing from Norwich, Swaffam and Walsingham makes a great triangle on the map with Norwich and Swaffam forming the base and Walsingham to Norwich the hypotenuse. It doesn’t feel so good on the feet though) the Shrine Church, then the Hospice, is the first place you’ll come to in the village, putting aside houses, on your right with part of the wall of the old Priory on your left. Right before you get to the Church which is preceeded by open fields, there is a turn off on your left which goes over a medieval stone bridge forming part of the Priory property ( you can even walk underneath the bridge when you visit the Priory) which heads off to Great Walsingham, and then you come to the town. Other than for the Shrine, which is becoming a joint ecumenical venture in everything but sacramental worship, Little Walsingham is like any other sleepy little Norfolk village.

SLIPPER CHAPEL (R.C. SHRINE) Unfortunately I did not make it to the Slipper Chapel, as it was a mile from the village, too far for me to walk -especially after all the walking on Friday- so I cannot really say anything about it (Sorry folks, but it will have to wait until next time). What I can say about the Shrine comes from the pictures and descriptions from my reading material. It is simpler in detail than the more elaborate Anglican Shrine. It is also smaller in size and in scale. It has no Holy House and its statue is set on a podium next to the altar rather than on the altar. Its statue is shaped slightly differently than the Anglican -the Christ Child’s head is tilted at a different angle looking straight on rather than toward the Virgin. The altar’s reredos is more ornate than the Anglican Shrine, and the word "simplicity" best describes the Shrine as a whole. From the pictures at least, the Shrine looks less oppressive, less formidable than the Anglican one. I know my use of oppressive and formidable may seem questionable, but a comparison of the two Shrines may make my meaning clearer. Just about every inch of space in the Anglican Shrine Church is filled or covered by some carving, or painting and makes heavy use of dark colors inside, heavy golds, reds, greens, blues, etc.; in short, there is very little empty space in the Shrine The RC Shrine doesn’t look as closed in.

PARISH CHURCH OF ST. MARY AND ALL SAINTS. It was from this church in 1922 that Fr. Patten began the restoration of veneration to our Lady of Walsingham. The current interior bares little or no resemblance to that church of 50 years ago because in 1959 a fire destroyed the inside. It was rebuilt by 1961, but part of the history of the Shrine’s restoration so wrapped up with the church is irretrievably gone forever. The new interior lives up to its appellation "new": the walls look freshly white-washed, the ceiling in the nave and aisles are painted with bright red, blue, and green lines, the arches over the chancel-sanctuary alternate large panels of cream and pale blue, the anchor-shaped crucifix with the figures of Mary and John standing beneath the cross is bright gold and red, the new stained glass windows, the medium sized wood pulpit with its tester overhang, even the statues adorning the niches, all conspire to give the church a Walt Disney-type feel, But worship goes on here as it has through the centuries.

The first service I attended in Walsingham was a Service of Tenebrae at the Roman Catholic Church of the Annunciation at 10:00. At 2:30 there was the service of Maria Desolate at the Parish Church, and starting at 8:00 when it was dark, the Great Vigil of Easter, also at the Parish Church. After the Desolata, I spent some time in the Priory grounds recording my thoughts in my notebook and gawking over my new acquisitions, including pamphlets and books on the Shrine. Sunday I attended the 11:00 Easter Sunday service, but went to the wrong one, the Student Cross service at the Shrine rather than the Parish Mass. I must have misread the schedule of events. What follows is a description -as best I can remember it- of the services.

The Service of TENEBRAE was held in the Catholic Church of the Annunciation, a modern building probably built or remodeled in the 1970-80’s: most of the furnishings are wooden, including the carvings of the Stations of the Cross. The service started with a candlebra containing 13 candles in a cross and triangle stand. The crucifix and statues were already veiled, and the altar stripped bare. The clergy filed in, and after opening prayers, began a series of readings, followed by hymns and responsories. After each set, one of the priests went up and extinguished two candles, one on either side of the divide, until there was but one left. After the last reading, the celebrant went up to the remaining candle lifted it up and took it behind the altar where he made as to put it in a tomb, reverently kissing it as he did so. After the final prayers the clergy processed out by the vestry, preceeded by the celebrant who retrieved the burning candle and walked out. We left in silence.

MARIA DESOLATA (Mary Desolate) 2:30 at the Parish Church. This was a series of readings and hymns addressed alternately to God the Father and to Mary, reiterating the narratives of our Fallen Nature, of the Passion, the sufferings of Christ’s Mother, and the horrible waiting that ensued coupled with petitions for the intercession of Christ and the Virgin. I do not remember much of the content, because, I must admit, I was completely distracted by the sight of the Parish in all its newness, even though it was over 30 years new!

GREAT VIGIL OF EASTER. As the name implies this was the Easter Vigil service at the Parish Church. I went up with Adrian and Mrs. C, (from here on whenever I say Adrian" read Adrian and Mrs. C, as he was her quasi-care-giver: they went everywhere together) and Audrey and others, but they kept slowing us up, so Adrian and I went on ahead so we could get Mrs. C. in the Church. We went around the side door, which is an old wooden door that has a slide action bolt operated bya handle that you turn diagonal to work. Well, as soon as we were settled in with our bulletin and our candles, the service began.. in the dark. We were all told to file out into the side yard in the cemetary. Mrs. C. stayed in as the wheelchair would be too cumbersome in procession. Once outside they turned the outer lights out, and kindled a grill/fire for the purpose of kindling the new flame and lighting the Paschal Flame. The Candle was blessed, and we processed silently back into the Church, resuming our places. Once everything was ready, the Vigil Proper began with the celebrant carrying the Paschal Candle with the traditional three-fold chant /responsory "Christ our Light" "Thanks be to God" As the Candle processed down, the torches were lit, and our candles also were lit to show that throgh Christ light again was entering into the world. Once the procession had ended (without a choir, though) the Deacon or another priest, or it could have been the Celebrant, started on the Exultet. At the end of which, the candles were extinguished, and the first hymn was played. Then the readings began, spreading the story of our Salvation -a series of four readings followed by psalm responsarios. After this was the blessing of the Font, which included a procession with the Paschal candle to the Seven Sacrament Font, recitation of the litany of the Saints, the blessing of the Font by dipping the end of the Paschal candle into the Font three times, the renewal of the baptismal covenant for which the candles were re-lit followed by sprinkling with New Water with Vidi Aquam. The Sermon came next, followed at last by the first Eucharist of Easter. The whole service lasted about 2 1/2 hours.

EASTER EUCHARIST: STUDENT CROSS This service which I by accident attended instead of the Parish Mass, was celebrated by Stuident Cross -an ecumenical gathering of college students who embark on a pilgriamge of Croesses to Walsingham which includes a procession from the Slipper Chapel to the Priory and the Anglican Shrine)- in the Shrine Church. It was a festive Eucharist, Folk-Mass type service with stidemt orchestra featuring, strings, trumpet, tuba, flute, and percussion reminiscent of Vocare. There were many, many hymns sung at this eucharist, including my favorite song and tune "Now the green blade riseth from the buried grain", sung at Communion..

MARIA CONSOLATA (Mary Consoled): This was the last service I atteneded, but not the last service: there was a Solemn Choral Evensong and Benediction at the Parish Church, but if I had stayed for it, I would not have made it home in time for work on Monday morning. This service lasted for an hour starting at 4:30. It started with a procession of the College of Guardians, led by the head, resplendent in his red robes and verger-mace topped with a silver image of Our Lady of Walsingham blaze of music, readings from the Resurrection narrative, hymns and responsories. Included in the service was a Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament. Afterwards the clergy blessed the flowers (Daffodils) and each worshipper received one. The high-point of this service was the coronation of Our Lady of Walsingham This involved a procession down the "center aisle" with the coronet, which I fortunate enough to have an aisle seat, was privileged to witness. However, after the clergy process to the Holy House, everyone crowed around like greedy vultures to witness the coronation, and very few got a glimpse of the crowning through the window of the Shrine. For the service, there were no less than 38 candles on the High Altar, probably closer to 40. After the service I got one of the priests to bless my image of Our Lady of Walsingham, which I had purchased months earlier in preparation of my Pilgrimage, which was done on the St. George Altar -where they normally did blessings- though not without first dropping the plaque and cracking and chipping the marble. (Which was a shame because the marble is a beautiful green. Hopefully the plague will stay together and not crack completely. The whole plaque is a green background with a silver-gilt rendering of Our Ladyof Walsingham. As can be seen from the foregoing, not much time was actually spent in the Shrine or Shrine Church proper.

Between the Student Cross Eucharist and the Maria Consolata, I spent more time at the Priory grounds, thoroughly exploring the trails in the back. I also purchased a little one-decade Rosary with Our Lady of Walsingham junction (medallion). This must obviously be the Shorter Version, specially formulated for those of us with short attention spans (I’ve still never made it through a whole Rosay recitation.

Part three is tomorrow, or there abouts, and is about the homeward journey,where you learn how I got back to Norwich for the train.