Zaynab's Main Page

The Tarpus

A Very Brief View of the Turkish Hat
and how it can be made

My interest in Turkish Costume of the early Seventeenth Century
lead me to try to recreate the head dress wore by the women. The hat is
called a Tarpus, the style I've made is ca. 1618. I found the style of
tarpus depicted in miniatures that where used in "guide books" for Istanbul.
Below I've out lined the steps I took to make my Tarpus.


Patterns
Flower Pot Tarpus | Tall Tarpus

Materials
1 yd of Buckram, used in place of " card" which was most likely sheets
of paper glued together.
1.5 yds millinery wire
.75 yds thin quilt batting
1 yd fashion fabric
trim if desired
head block, if you do not have one usesomething round. For my first
tarpus I used a tightly packed ball of wool covered with a plastic bag

1. I developed the pattern.
2. Using two layers of Buckram, I formed the crown of the hat. I did
this by wetting the Buckram and stretching it over a head block.
Warning this is a messy step!
3. I then cut out the cone and cone top, also out of two layers of
B uckram .
4. When the crown was dry I drew the shape for it and cut it out.
5. The next step was to wire the edges of the crown and both edges of the
cone with millinery wire. You can use a whip stitch or a buttonhole
stitch to secure the wire by hand or a zigzag stitch on your sewing
machine, if you use the sewing machine it is a good idea to wear
safety glasses.
6. I covered both the crown and cone with a layer of thin cotton
batting, this gives the fashion fabric a smoother look.
7. Adding seam allowance I cut the cone out of the fashion fabric.
8. Pinning as I went I stretched fashion fabric over the crown making
darts as needed, then I sewed the fabric in place.
9. To finish the cone I covered the top circle and cone with the fashion
fabric, and the sewed the top circle to the cone.
10. After the cone is done it is sewn to the crown.
11. At this point trim can be added if desired.
12. The last step is to add a lining on the inside.

The Tarpus is worn with or without scarves wrapped around it to
hold it on. To aid in keeping mine on I sew in a hair comb. Some
miniatures also show a veil worn over the cone.

The Tarpus came in many styles, from some that looked like pillboxes from the 1950's to ones that looked like upside down flowerpots. Below ar a few styles.

1