I place VERY VERY little emphasis on the tee shot. I would say I strategically place my tee shot maybe an average of 2x per 18 holes. This of course is caused by courses such as Valderamma which require almost every shot to be strategic. Other then that I do just as below.

The snap I hit most frequent is just past 6:00.  I typically hit 3-5 snaps dead on 6:00 during a round. For this reason, the goal of my tee shot is to aim for the left 1/4 of the fairway to keep as high a percentage of my shots in the fairway. I manage to hit 83 percent of the fairways in reg. Not the best, but it's very hard to judge exactly what that late 6:00 snap will do with windy conditions, especially when there is a lot of elevation.
 

As I've stated many times before, the key for me is the approach shot.  If I'm not consistently sticking that sucker closer then 10 feet regardless of conditions, I'm just not going to score near my expectations. Rarely do I set up the approach shot. Typically the only time I do is the Long Par 5's into a hard wind. Then I may lay up to 120 yards or more, just to have more green control into a slope.

I need fully expect to stick 8-12 approaches under 10 feet per round, with most under 7 feet. Typically I have 1-4 measured in inches. Now how do I do this with consistency? I'm not a chart user first of all, other then mental of course.

There are SEVERAL things to consider on the approach shot.

1. The first of course being the distance to the pin and the elevation.  We all know the standard conversion method for elevation,  which is 3 feet uphill or downhill is +/- 1 yard. That is very consistent.

2. The second thing to consider is the slope in front of the ball. Just because you don't see an up or down arrow in front of the ball doesn't mean there isn't any. I ALWAYS feel the slope in front of the ball.  If you put the aimer JUST in front of the ball it'll always say less the 1 inch downhill. However; if you put it in front of the ball a few feet, it'll give you the slope of the ground. If it goes downhill more, I subtract 3-5 yards from the distance usually to the pin. If it goes uphill a touch I usually ignore it for the most part unless there is a slope indicator, then I'll add yards to the distance.

3. Next, you MUST feel the green with the aimer to find the shape. This will give you a feeling for what the balls going to do when it hits the green. Does it bounce left? right? spin? bounce? Is the pin on top of a hill or bottom of a valley? All important things to consider when playing the approach shot.

4. There are other things to consider such as wind direction and how it'll affect ball roll. If the winds blowing from behind, you're going to get lot more roll on the green. The more it'll roll, the more the shape of the green comes into play when making your approach shot.

5. Another thing to consider is the green conditions of course with hard greens making for longer carrying balls. One condition that is deceiving is n/s. With the shorter clubs this condition can make for greens that act as if they are hard and will carry further then n/m greens because less back spin effect makes the lofted 8 Iron on down carry further.

6. Oops, almost forgot the ground slope.  I apply the following estimations of the left to right slope effects.  Unfortunately, since I can't hit 6:00, I have to almost through these out the window, :-). These effects are in Champ mode. I've heard they are about 1/2 in Pro mode. If there is NO arrow left or right, look at the grid... It will still indicate a slope in most cases.

a. The slope effect is usually 0-10 feet with no right or left slope indication.
b. If the arrow is the shortest, the slope effect is 10-20 feet.  Look at the grid to figure out which it is closer to. Experience is important here.
c. If the arrow is one step longer it's 20-30 feet, keeping the grid in mind. 
d.  If the grid lines are real close together, and the arrow length fairly long, the effect is greater then 30 feet. A tight zippered slope is generally around 20 yards with some as high as 40 yards. 
e. The effect of the slope is LESS with 5 Iron on up in club length. I have to play it by feel in such cases. 

That about summarizes the approach aspect of my game. 
 

Key thing to remember is to almost always try to land the ball in uphill side of the cup, it's more likely to catch it then spit it out. I would much rather have a ball stay on the high side of a cup then go under the low side. If it goes under the low side, it's the same as not hitting the putt hard enough. It's just won't/can't get there. 

Now,  the key here to remember is, that if you leave it high,  you must be careful NOT to over hit the putt. The second putt is always tougher from the high side because it's usually downhill and twisting. You need to keep it as short as possible. So especially when it's h/f and you're taking a long putt that can be hard to judge distance.. it can be better to just let it go under the cup, and settle for a 2 putt with an easier uphill 2nd putt. 

How far do I aim left or right to putt?  One thing I try and remember here is that the perfect practice condition is n/m. Normal/Medium greens give the center of putting, so I love when a normal/medium green condition comes up because I normally don't practice. If it's slower then that, play less slope effect, and more if it's harder. Also when it's uphill or downhill, I try and visualize the putt. If something's going faster over a shorter distance, it only makes since that it's going to break less then if it's going slower over the same distance.  The slower the putt rolls, the longer gravity has to pull that putt down the slope. 

That in a nutshell is how I play LS. I have no big secrets here, no secret charts, no nothing, other then experience, and the reliance of memory. I only hope that this helps improve your game.

Paul Willey