mardi gras art

"Jelly Roll" Morton's Jelly Roll Blues
    

Welcome to the "Enchantment" of Carnival as celebrated in Mobile, AL

....the "Mother City of Mardi Gras Mystics" in the United States....


A Bit of Historical Trivia

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The french translation of Mardi Gras is Fat Tuesday.  Residents of both Mobile and New Orleans refer to Mardi Gras day as "Fat Tuesday" or "Shrove Tuesday," which is the day before Ash Wednesday, the first day of lent.  "Boef Gras" (Fat Beef), dating back to 16th Century Europe, imported by our French and Spanish founders, is the root origin of our present day celebrations. Mobilians enjoy "the feasting before the fasting" to its fullest.  Carnival is that reckless period of mirth, revelry, disorder and general merry making prior to the severity of Lent.

Mobile, a city of six flags, was ruled by both the French and Spanish during the 18th century. Mardi Gras, or Carnival as it is called in both cities, was brought to America by the French and Spanish founders of these port cities on the Gulf of Mexico.

Masked balls date back to 1704 when Nicholas Langlois, a frenchman, established the Societe de la Saint Louis at Twenty-seven Mile Bluff, Mobile's first settlement (which, at the time was located in Washington County, the first county in State).  Mobile's claim as "Mother of Mystics*"is based on the fact that the first masked Carnival Society in America was organized in Mobile and revelers took to the streets December 31, 1830.  The "Cowbellion de Rakin Society," founded by Michael Krafft**, set off the Carnival Season on New Year's Eve. The annual highlight for present day Cowbellions, resurrected in 1989 (by a group of men known within their society as "The Seven"), is their traditional "New Years's Eve Revel." Thus, the original traditions continue; the Strikers Independent Society, founded in 1841, annually celebrates New Year's Eve with an elaborate masked ball.

The social season of the year is officially launched with the annual Santa Claus Society Christmas Ball, begun December 25, 1886, climaxing at midnight on Shrove Tuesday with the Order of Myth Ball.  Many societies do not parade, the majority of their energy (along with thousands and thousands of dollars) is expended in the planning of balls that each (Society) hopes will be the "Ball" of the season.  The traditional parading season begins approximately one month prior to Ash Wednesday.  The date of each ball and parade is sacrosanct having been established as a matter of historical tradition with the advent of their first season (i.e. for 49years my Society has held its' annual ball on the 4th Saturday preceding Ash Wednesday). With the emergence of several new organizations during the last few years, Mobilians now enjoy many more parades with the oldest of Mobile's Mystic Societies, the OOM's, founded in 1867, concluding the Carnival season with their parade and ball, which closes at midnight, the evening of Mardi Gras day.

For Mobile's society, participation in the Grand March, which opens every ball, is the local equivalent of presentation at the Court of St. James.  Mardi Gras Royalty of the Carnival Society and each independent Society wear their "Crowns" and "Titles" to the grave;  Carnival rulers must be native Mobilians and decedents of previous Court Royalty.  It may seem a bit ludicrous to most folks but Mardi Gras is taken very seriously in these old southern cities as it is woven into the fabric of their heritage (well into its second century, with the advent of New Year's Eve, Mobile celebrates its' 168th Carnival); every major social event revolves around the "Carnival Calendar" as it is a way of life and business (a multi-million dollar industry).  Plans for each successive celebration begin on Ash Wednesday; and there are various meetings, parties, luncheons, informal socials and dances held during the year.  Not to mention floats must be designed and built, and, costumes and Royal Regalia must be designed and made; this takes a wee bit of time.

Mardi Gras is a period of frivolity and somewhat reckless gaiety enjoyed by everyone; traditionally however, the Mystic Societies were organized and founded by Mobile's most socially prominent families and during the first century (1830 - 1930) the balls were considered a blue blood affair.  The New Orleans Carnival is more "prominently celebrated" in the U.S. and naturally, has received more notoriety.  Mobile, on the other hand, has retained the pure, natural, spontaneous gaiety, in the tradition of glittering street parades and masked costume balls.  Glamorous, elaborate and exciting, the balls are extremely formal; "Costume de Rigueur"is engraved on every invitation extended to guests and member escort (even if the spouse has been married to the participant for 50 years and attended as many balls) and is staunchly observed.

During the 18th and early 19th centuries, ladies invitations were often delivered in a silk pouchs bearing the Society's Emblem, accompanied by a box of candy. You see, the guests were not supposed to know who their entertainers were. Traditionally, the primary purpose of elaborate costumes and masks were to conceal the identity of the members of the Society. Today,the tradition of secrecy and masking is still strictly adhered to, however, guests naturally know who their host or hostess is, you simply will never find a public membership roster.  Tsk, tsk, should a member be so neglectful as to appear in the formal areas of the ball without their mask or headdress, you can be sure he or she will regret their unacceptable conduct when they have to pay the price for the err of their ways (societies impose heavy fines for infractions of their rules of conduct and tradition).

The traditions and spirit of Mardi Gras gallantry, pageantry, frivolity and excess survives in its purest form where families gather and enjoy a "block party" that is in reality the entirety of downtown Mobile as all major streets are closed to traffic during the entire day and for an hour preceding and succeeding each parade.  Parade goers enjoy the street fair, food vendors and carnival rides while waiting for the next parade. "Moon Pies" are the throw, or should one say, catch, of the day, coupled with beads, theme cups and/or coins (bearing the insignias of the Society emblem and annual theme), balls and numerous other trinkets which are thrown to the masses by the revelers on the floats.

*Joseph Ellison, a Mobile Cowbellion, was one of six Mobilians who had moved to New Orleans early in 1850, where they founded "The Mistick Krewe of Comus" which remains active today.  Sidney Smith, another Mobilian, who was the son of a Striker, organized the Twelfth Night Revelers, in New Orleans in 1870; and Lewis Weems, a member of the Mobile Tea Drinkers Society, was among the organizers of the Veiled Prophets of Saint Louis.

**Michael Krafft, born in Bristol, PA in 1807, died of yellow fever in Pascagoula, MS in September, 1839 and was laid to rest in the old Magnolia Cemetery in Mobile; his tombstone bears the insignia of the Cowbellions: a cow's head, a rake, a hoe and a cow bell. Michael's birthday was March 22nd; annually, on this date, the members of the resurrected Cowbellions convene at the gravesite in full bovine regalia to toast their founder.


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