I have been writing to Theodore ("Teddy") Washington, an inmate of the Florence Prison, Arizona, for seven years. I was put in touch with him by the Cambridge group LifeLines.
Like many other correspondents, I eventually reached that point in my relationship with my pen-friend where I was keen to actually visit him. I followed the procedures for the visit by asking for a visitation order, which was very quickly sent, filling it in and returning it. This was accepted and I was placed on the list of people approved to visit that particular inmate.
Surprisingly, the decision to go was made easily and quickly. Once I realised I could afford it and get to see something of the States, it seemed a completely natural choice. The letters leading up to this period (June 1997) had lacked much of the hope and confidence in the future I'd grown to expect. In fact, at one point another inmate wrote to me expressing his worries for my penpal's situation and this, of course, made me doubly determined. My friend was delighted to hear that I was both happy and willing to see him. The letters following my announcement were filled with optimism, which was a wonderful thing to read, and very rewarding in itself.
Following a serious fall several years ago, Teddy had suffered an injury to his back. The damage he had done resulted in a lot of pain which has steadily become worse. So much so that at various times he had refused to do the work assigned him until a proper medical examination was taken. It appears that an impasse developed and no (or inadequate) medical provision was supplied. The importance of these events will become apparent.
When you are placed on an inmate's list you receive a list of rules which must be followed to the letter. One of these stipulates that the date of your visit cannot be made more than seven days in advance of your intended day. This effectively means that in many cases you cannot confirm you will see your correspondent until after your arrival in the States. This should not present a problem: these men receive very little contact with the outside world and you get a choice of visiting times on the Saturday, Sunday and Monday of any given weekend. In my case, I arrived in Phoenix on the Monday, rang the prison from Las Vegas on the Wednesday and booked an appointment for the Saturday. The prison staff were happy to repeat the confirmed visit details back at me.
Saturday arrived and I drove to the prison. I had followed the dress code rules and remembered to wear smart trousers (not jeans) and a plain shirt. I even had a tie in my pocket. I arrived at the prison in good time and politely followed the security checks. As my hire car was searched a guard asked me a set of stock questions, including the name and number of the prisoner I was visiting. This can be an intimidating moment as the place seems to bristle with guns and dogs, but short answers delivered in a calm and respectful manner will get you through. Actually, it's the only way. I was passed and told to park up, then directed to the main gate where I was to tell the guard there that I was visiting Death Row: he would then ring for someone to come and collect me. All this went along without a hitch, until another guard came to meet the five or six of us visiting Death Row.
I was approached straight away and asked my name, then taken to one side for a private conversation. I was told that my inmate had received so many write-ups (disciplinary reports about his refusal to work) that his visitation privileges had been withdrawn for the next 90 days. I would not be allowed to see him. Obviously I was devastated at this news but somehow managed to remain cool. I asked if they realised I had come more than 6,000 miles for this moment. They were. I asked if I could see him for five minutes, just to say hello. I couldn't. I very quickly realised that I was not going to get anywhere. There was nothing to do but walk away.
There are lessons to be learnt here to safeguard your trip.
* Most importantly, view your visit philosophically. The trip is not for you, it is for your friend: I was able to drive away and find something else to do. The guys inside the jail can't do that.
* Have something planned immediately after your visit. I visited people I know in the nearest town: if I hadn't, I would probably have got on the next available flight out of there. This is a good idea even if the visit goes brilliantly which, 99.9% of the time, it will.
* Do not get wound up by the guards' checks, this is a maximum security prison after all and they want to deal with you efficiently. Also, this part can be over very quickly if you play ball.
* If you know where you are going to be in the interim, leave a contact phone number with the prison after you phone in to make the appointment. I was travelling from motel to motel (and not really following a set itinery) so this was not possible.
* And enjoy your time in the US! America is an amazing place and it is important not to feel guilty about enjoying yourself before and after the visit.
I must emphasise that what happened has not left me feeling bitter or frustrated. On the day, yes, I felt extremely angry but I had to think about my pen-friend and this soon diluted my negative thoughts. In fact, I plan to go again as soon as I can afford it. Everyone has told me that a visit can be the most rewarding thing you ever do. I have no reason to doubt it, and neither should you. My experience was the worst-case scenario and I honestly believe that the chances of it happening to anyone else are negligible. I cannot wait to see my friend, and I still have the first time to look forward to.