Jaffa dates back to at least the 18th century BCE, and has been conquered numerous times.
During the Israelite conquest of Canaan, Jaffa was given to the tribe of Dan, but it remained in Philistine hands until
the reign of King David, when it became the chief port of the Israelite kingdom. It is also known as the place from which Jonah set sail before
being swallowed by the whale. Much of what you see in Jaffa today is from the Ottoman period, but Crusader walls and excavations from
earlier times are also found in the Old City.
Tel-Aviv has its beginnings in the 19th century when Jews began arriving in larger numbers. Originally planned as a Jewish suburb of Jaffa,
Tel-Aviv's population greatly increased during the Arab riots of the 20's and 30's, when Jews sought safer conditions away from Jaffa. This in combination
with continued immigration made Tel-Aviv the biggest Jewish town in Palestine. The UN partition plan of 1947 granted Jaffa to the
Arabs and Tel-Aviv to the Jews, but during the war the Jews captured Jaffa and most of the Arabs became refugees. Jaffa was incorporated into
Tel-Aviv and now the two areas form one city.
Tel-Aviv is now the commercial and cutural center of Israel, and it's center of nightlife and fun. Whereas in Jerusalem
you see lots of white dress shirts and kipas, in Tel-Aviv you see Nine Inch Nails shirts and body piercings. It's a very cosmopolitan city,
and if it weren't for the presence of Jaffa it would be very easy to forget that you're in the Holy Land. Much of Tel-Aviv is not visually
attractive, but it has a unique atmosphere to be experienced, loads of great clubs and bars, beautiful beaches, and a number of museums
and other tourist attractions. It's no Jerusalem, but it's worth visiting just to get a feel for the biggest city in Israel with its mishmash
of Jews from Europe, Asia, and Africa.
The biggest attraction for travellers is Old Jaffa. Unfortuntely it's a bit too restored, which makes it look
brand new, but it's still beautiful. Kikar Kedumim, the central sqaure of Old Jaffa, features a visitor's center with archeological excavations
and historical info (admission is free). The traditional site of Simon the Tanner's house is nearby. This is supposedly where the Apostle
Peter stayed and was given instructions by God to preach to the gentiles, and it has been a pilgrims' site for centuries. The views
of Jaffa's medieval buildings from Jaffa Port are very impressive.
North of Jaffa in Tel-Aviv, the main attraction are the great beaches. There is also the outdoor Carmel Market, a lively place to buy
cheap food, clothing, and pirated cd's. Around the Carmel market is the Yemenite quarter, a rundown neighbourhood populated mostly
by oriental Jews. If you're an orientalist who feels ripped off by Tel-Aviv's European vibe, this area might cheer you up. Another Oriental
neighbourhood is HaTikva, in South Tel-Aviv near the central bus station. On Etzel Street you can find great, cheap oriental food, and there are
lots of crazy animal parts for the adventurous. These (aside from kiosks) are the cheapest restaurants you'll see in Tel-Aviv, the Western oriented
restaurants are rediculously expensive. Accomodations in Tel-Aviv are more expensive than in Jerusalem, but you can still get a
fairly cheap hostel dorm bed for around $7 or $8 US. Recommended hostels are NO. 1 Hostel and Gordon Hostel. I also liked The Office.
There are loads of others, but quality varies and many are filled with long term workers so you won't meet anyone to travel with.
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