Part 2 of the Odyssey:
Big White
Here's the 2nd chapter of a long and sad tale, in which I leave Penticton early, disillusioned with the Youth Hostel's perfidy and Apex's lack of a shuttle, and head for Kelowna and Big White!
Arrived at Big White late in the afternoon of March 13 on a shuttle driven by a very small cowboy lady. I was staying at the Samesun Youth Hostel, which as it transpired had been stuck in underneath the Alpine Centre and Loose Moose Bar and Grill, at the top of the village and 1/3rd of the way up the main ski run!
Very interesting hostel, with big rooms, co-ed, lots of bright-coloured hessian and the staff seldom in evidence. Full of Aussie snowboarders, naturally. The weather was clear and very cold, with an incredible amount of snow, and when I arrived the night skiing was in full swing.
Got up early the next day for a great day's skiing. It was alternately cloudy and sunny, with big snowflakes falling intermittently, even when it was sunny! It was very very cold, the snow was in perfect condition, and early-on I met up with a nice bloke from Kelowna, who was retired and enjoying a lot of skiing. His name was Al, and despite being in his late 50s it emerged quite soon that his only speed was FAST. (And no, he was not on shaped skis. He'd tried them, and gone back to his Rossignols). We skiied every cruiser in the place at mach. 1 all day.
That night whilst trying to sleep we were all serenaded by the delightful but fake Irish band upstairs in the Loose Moose.
Saturday was cloudy and snowy, with heaps of fresh everywhere. They'd closed Westridge due to wind, and it became very clear that Big White really needs Westridge! The snow got heavier, and I made the mistake of going up the t-bar...bad move. Visibility was zero, so I and some fellow explorers all-but roped together and picked our way down. Spent the rest of the day in the Black Forest, looking for something to ski down (and failing) and dodging Families.
That night we were entertained in our beds by the Kindred again...how nice. Even the snowboarders became offended and said harsh things about their repetoire, their ability and their professed nationality.
Sunday was stunning. Hot, sunny, no crowds (despite Kid Week starting the next day), no wind. Simply awesome. Bought too many souvenir t-shirts; Big White had really cornered the market in this area! It had also cornered the market in wide cruisy runs, with some left bumpy for variety. Rather a rounded mountain, quite gentle. They had one horrible steep cliff-thing for the mad people; ski patrol amused themselves by throwing bombs at it every morning.
Monday: bit misty, not very cold, plenty of fresh... Tried a gentle mogul run and confirmed that DIN 4.5 was Not Appropriate: double ejected several times under the chairlift and retired in disgust back to the cruisers. Cloud moved in and I retired to the bar.
Tuesday: Two Buddha had threatend to materialise on this day, and I assumed that it would be in the evening. So whilst I was nursing a hangover in bed, one of the staff poked me and said "your friend's here". URRRRHH!
I staggered out, and any hopes TB had of a 6 foot (insert name of any famous/glamorous Australian lady here) were swiftly dashed. He was dressed for skiing, and eyed my pyjamas disapprovingly (well it was 9am). I shambled out to inspect the snow, decided it was worth skiing, and then realised I was in bare feet... Well managed to keep some coffee down, got out eventually and we went skiing (after being introduced to the Dog and the Van).
Scott became Toast (some kind of religious thing apparently, sort-of a Vailised version of the Host) and vanished into the van to sleep, while I packed my rubbish.
We loaded everything up, the Dog discovered I'd nicked her seat in the van and so arranged herself on top of my luggage, and we set out for Nelson, with the intention of skiing Red or Whitewater the next day. As we drove into Nelson, however, it started to rain! Got a motel room with 2 bedrooms, and so my introduction to the Snoring was postponed (yes we smuggled the dog in).
Thus ends the 2nd instalment, with TB and Ant being carefully polite to each other, and not saying anything rude at all (and TB not farting at all, incredible eh?) Alas this atmosphere of restraint and civilization was to end so soon!
In Chapter 3, we go to Schweitzer, where TB becomes The Dargy Gard (Doggie God in American) and has snowballs thrown at him by the Unbeliever Schweitzer Fire Chief.
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View down the hill from Big White Hostel |
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Big White Hostel underneath, Loose Moose Bar & Grill up above! |