The City of Marstrand

The City of Marstrand!

 

Marstrand is situated on the outskirts of the archipelago of the Swedish West Coast, about 35 kilometres north-west of Gothenburg. It is a uniquely picturesque small town with low traditional wooden houses along the quay and on the slopes above. On the western two thirds of the island, the landscape is untouched, with rare maritime plants and smooth rocks, from where you have an astounding panoramic view of the archipelago.

 

Marstrand dates back to the 13th century and was granted its town charter in 1442. During the 16th and 18th centuries, when herring-fishing was at its peak, Marstrand was an important fishing and trading port. From 1754-94 it was declared porto franco with complete religious and economics freedom. Therefore Marstrand became a refuge for Jews in Sweden and the first Swedish synagogue was founded there.

 

The main attraction, however, is the Carlsten fortress, with visitors from all over the world.Its foundations were laid in 1658 by Erik Dahlbergh and it remained one of the strongest fortresses in Europe until the end of the 19th century. It was surrendered twice to the Danes; in 1677 and 1719. During both the 18th and the 19th century it served as a state prison.

 

There are a number of other interesting buildings on the island e.g. the beautiful Mariakyrkan (St. Mary's Church), with its exterior influenced by southern European architecture. It was founded as a monastery church in the 1270s. The City Hall is the oldest stone building in the county of Bohuslän. The old Club House and Båtellet are reminders from the turn of the century when King Oscar II spent his summers on the island and Marstrand had its palmy days as a summer resort. The Harbour fortress (Strandverket) and Fredriksborg also let us remember days gone by. Today yachting and the quays with their crowded restaurants and cafes lure people to Marstrand.

 

During the summer months Marstrand is transformed into an international sailing metropolis. Yachts of all kinds throng in manifold rows along the jetties. Rows of bunting meet the eye everywhere. Ferries filled to the brim shuttle across from the Koö (the Cow island). The quays overflow with happy holidaymakers, market stalls, music and laughter.

 

A TOUR OF MARSTRAND TOWN

When arriving at the island of Marstrand, transported by the ferry LASS-MAJA, and upon seeing the dominant fortress proudly situated on the highest point of the island, the harbour with all the boats and the beautiful woodenhouses along the quay, then you can almost feel the breath of wind from the ages. You will the be inspired to take a walk along the cobbled-stone, untrafficated streets and alley-ways.

History of Marstrand

The Middle Ages

Throughout history Marstrand has had many names. It is difficult to say what the original from was or what it meant Malstrand, Masstrandir, Måsestrand, Mastrand, Masterland, Mariestrand, Marestrand are some examples of early names.

Marstrand is a very old town. According to legend the Norwegian King Harald Gille built a church on Marstrand in 1139. But the town itself was not founded until the 13th century by the Norwegian King Haakon Haakonsson and was then under Norwegian rule. Later Marstrand was put under Danish sovereignty and it was not until the Treaty of Roskilde that Marstrand became Swedish.

 

The Herring

The history of Marstrand is intimately connected with the periods of herring fishing in Bohuslän. When the herring came n the town prospered but when thee herring changed its route, poverty became the rule of the day.

One of these periods of herring fishing coincided with the foundation of the town. King Haakon of Norway was very fond of Marstrand and he considired that the town should look to herring for its future. Marstrand´s coats of arms consequently became three herrings placed in a triangle, surrounding a star like a symbolic remembrance.

The King´s belief in the herring fishing was so great that he ordered fisher-men on the mainland to move to Marstrand and to devote themselves completely to fishing and not as before combined with farming.

In the year 1247 he obtained permission from the pope giving the fisher-men of Marstrand and surrounding areas permissions to fish on holy days if necessary.

 

The Boom-period of 16th Century

Herring fishing picked up again in 1556 and Marstrand became its centre. For 30 years the island remained the centre for the herring industry in Europe. This period was the town´s boom-period with regards to richness and power. Marstrand had 2 mayors, 1 sheriff, 1 supreme master of the guild and 10 aldermen.

Still it was considered to be the most immoral town in Scandinavia. Old records tell of the wild life lead by all those who had been attracted to Marstrand by profit, greed and adventure. There was no respect for life and property.

One very upsetting event took place on 15 February 1586, when Herr Arne, priest at Solberga, was murdured . One month after this terrible crime the murdures were arrested in a tavern at Marstrand and executed. Years later this event inspired Selma Lagerlöf to write the book "Herr Arnes penningar"

The same year Marstrand was burnt to the ground and the whole town lay in ashes.

 

The End of the Herring Period

In the year 1558 the herring suddenly disappeared. People connected the murder of the priest from Solberga with the disappearance of the fish which consequently was considered to be the punishment for having committed this terrible crime. Poverty returned to the island.

In 1643 the town was once more completely destroyed by fire.

 

Marstrand Becomes Swedish

As a result of the Treaty of Roskilde 1658 the island became Swedish and the foundation of the fortress was laid.

However, after the repeated misfortune of Marstrand the authoroties assisted the town by granting several years of exemption from duty on salt and permission was given to fetch timber from the King´s forests. It was not until the middle of the 18th century that herring returned and prosperity increased to such an axtent that it reminded of the golden years of the 16th century.

 

The Porto Franco Period

The citizens of Marstrand soon realised that changing a poor costal area to a prosperous fishing-centre deamanded new regulations in order to best safe-guard the different possibilities now at hand. They applied for and got, in 1775, a charter from the Swedish King Gustav III making Marstrand a self-governing free port - the Porto Franco period. This meant many economical advantages , but also many disadvantages. Paragraph 9 in this charter also permitted criminals to escape to the island where the Swedish law could not reach them.

According to official records more than 500 criminals escaped thre during these years. It was also permitted for foreigners to settle down there who, after 2 years, became nationalized Swedes.

There was a total religious freedom on the island. This attracted rich Jewa to the town and it in 1780 a Mosaic community was formed. It rented and had decorated one of the vaults in Fredriksborg´s defensive works, which then was used as a synagogue - the first in Scandinavia.

It would have semmed possible for a town like Marstrand, with such exceptional privileges, to become a big city. Strangely enough the expected results failed to appear and after 20 years the citizens asked the King to withdraw the Porto Franco charter. People expected the herring-boom to continue and with it prosperity.

The fishing industry continued succesfully intill 1808 when once again the herring took another route. This resulted in that Marstrand´s wealth diminished and nearby towns like Kungälv and Gothenburg passed it in both size and importance. Due to the improved communicatons on roads and railways during the 19th century, the strategic positon of Marstrand no longer played an important role.

 

Sea-bathing - The Fashion

Marstrand now found a substitute for the herring industry. In the year 1822 a tradesman at Marstrand started the first establishment offering baths to the publics. He turned old salting-house for hot baths, salongs and livingquartes. This establishments soon proved to small.

The inhabitants soon realised the possibilities Marstrand had as a watering-lace and in 1856 the new bath-house offering baths in hot seawater (today Båtellet) was constructed. This was soon followed by cold sea-water pools in 1882 and Societetshuset ( the Society House) in 1886.

In the 1850s the number of guests had increased considerably and also the plesaures. When members of the royal family, namely King Oscar I , Queen Josefina, Prince August, who also was the Duke of Dalarna and Princess Euginie visited the island its popularity increased and was henceforth classed as a royal seaside-resourt. Later Carl XV and Prince Gustav also visited Marstrand.

Between 1887 and 20 years forward King Oscar II spent one summer-month a year at Marstrand which increased its fame even more. When the king´s ship Drott` came sailing into the harbour of Marstrand, people joined in the celebrations and aroyal frenzy swept over the island. During his visit to Marstrand the social life reached a peak. Dances, receptions, concerts and evening entertainment were an every-day occurence.

 

During this period Marstrand was also appreciated as a WATERING-PLACE.

The sea-air, rich in ozon, and its sea-water was considered effecient against many sicknesses.

 

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