HomeUntil recently there were few patterns for the larger person and it took a great deal of manipulation to make patterns fit or you had to settle for patterns with little or no style. The only other alternative was to make the pattern yourself. If you were lucky enough to be able to make the any style was and is possible. Contrary to popular belief heavy people are not all round. There are as many figure types among the larger population as among their smaller counterparts.
The shapes can be square, hour glass, round , pear or triangular. You can be a combination fo any of these. This means the main thing is to know which shape you have because all styles are not suitable for every figure type.
Very close fitting styles are not suitable for the larger person, you don't want to wear extremely loose fitting clothing as so many do thinking that hides the extra weight. This can make a person appear larger. What you do want is to get a good fit. You want the sleeves loose enough to be able to bend your arm comfortably at the elbow in a tailored garment and skirts need to be loose enough for you to sit without straining the seams. If the garment has a waistband it shoud not fit tightly around your waist as this can cause the stomach to protrude and the zipper to twist, and the band shouldn't roll over. The skirt should fit smoothly on the body.
A person with heavy upper arms needs to take this into consideration when making a garment. Dont' buy a pattern that has a very close fitting sleeve or is sleeveless. If you like the sleeveless effect you can acheive it by using opaque, lace or eyelet fabrics in the sleeve area.
The jacket or top should fit smoothly across the shoulders without looking strained. Shoulder pads are used to give the garment shape in the shoulder area but don't use very large shoulder pads because that will draw attention to large arms. The garment should button without straining across the bust area, that will cause gaps between the buttonholes. You should be able to raise your arms without pulling the top out of the waistband or straining the underarm seams.
There are many ways to achieve a glamorous look for the heavier person, so when making a garment try to keep things in balance, emphasize your good points and draw attention away from other areas. I hope this helps make your next garment fit better. If you have questions about a special fitting problem or technique e-mail me SewinSista@juno.com
or post it on the message board.These books might help you get a better fitting garment:
Fabulous Fit by Judith Rasband
Fashion Design For The Plus Size by Frances Leto Zangrillo