Nina Kay Milenius, Education Program Manager
Donna Hoeflinger, Husqvarna Viking Free Lance Educator
As invisible zippers again gain popularity in ready-to-wear garments,
the home sewer is also beginning to once again use them. This revival has
brought along with it a number of questions on how to insert invisible zippers.
Generic invisible zipper feet do not fit today’s sewing machines. A
generic foot will never fit or feed as well as one designed specifically
for your Husqvarna Viking sewing machine. Therefore, we at Husqvarna Viking
have developed our own method of insertion.
To insert the invisible zipper, you will use the "C" foot (yes, the buttonhole
foot!!) It has two grooves underneath just like the invisible zipper feet
of the past. Also have the "E" zipper foot handy to finish up the process.
Follow these easy steps for a flawless zipper.
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DO NOT stitch any part of the seam before you put in the zipper.
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Open the zipper. From the wrong side, iron the zipper coils flat so that
the two rows of stitching show. Use a synthetic setting on your iron. If
necessary, use a press cloth so you do not accidentally melt your zipper.
-
With right sides together, align the left zipper tape approximately ¼"
below the cut edge of the fabric. Place zipper coil on the 5/8" seam line
on the right side of the fabric. For a perfect 5/8" seam, serge finish your
fabric first and then align the edge of the zipper tape against the inner
edge of the serged stitching.
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Place the zipper coil in the right groove of the "C" foot.
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Adjust the needle position to the right so the needle will stitch along
the teeth. Utilize one the 25 needle positions on your Husqvarna Viking sewing
machine to adjust the needle to the perfect position.
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Start stitching at the top of the zipper and continue until the foot touches
the zipper pull. Back tack.
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Repeat steps 3 – 6 for the right side of the zipper. CAUTION: Make
sure that you have not accidentally twisted the zipper. Sew and again
backstitch.
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To stitch the remainder of the seam, close the zipper and select the right
needle position. With the needle to the right, snap on the "E" zipper foot.
With right sides of the fabric together, pull the zipper ends gently toward
the right to keep it free of the seam. Lower the needle by hand slightly
above and 1/8" to the left of the last stitch at the base of the zipper.
Back stitch and continue to finish your seam.
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Tack the free end at the bottom of each zipper tape to the seam
allowance.
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Keep the zipper closed when washing or dry cleaning.
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Open the zipper all the way when putting on or removing your garment.
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