Dark
and New Contouring
Contouring is a way to dramatise the face with light and dark shading.
Any lighted place seems to come forward and looks more prominent.
Darker areas will recede into shadow and appear smaller. Contouring
can be used to emphasise beautiful bone structure, elegant cheek
bones, cleft chin and dimples. Dark and light contouring can also be
used to change face shapes and correct structural flaws.
Make-up
for contouring
The easiest make-up for contouring is a brown blusher (without
undertones) two tones darker than the skin colour. If foundation has
to be used, it should be darker than the regular base colour in brown
family. For light contouring, use a frosted white powder shadow. Cream
highlighters can also be used for dry skins.
Contouring
with dark shadows
Feel the cheekbone with fingertips, slowly inching the fingers down
the bone until the hollow under the cheekbone can be felt. With the
dark blusher, apply dark shadowing in that hollow. Be sure to take the
shading all the way out to the ear. Blend the contour with the
foundation. No lines should be visible and the effect should be
subtle.
For
round face: Slim
the roundness by applying dark contouring to the outer cheek areas.
Blend well with foundation.
For square jaw: Place the square outline of the jaw in shadow
and brush dark contour along the jawline at the outside of the face.
For double chin: A plump chin can be made less obvious by dark
contouring under the jawline, from one ear to the other. Feel the bone
using fingers and brush the shading under it. Lift the chin for better
visibility. Blend the shading down into the neck and up to blend with
the foundation.
For wide nose: A broad nose can be chiseled by using the
slant-tip brush. Apply brown shading in two lines down the sides of
the nose. Blend the lines with the base, using the fingertips.
For long nose: The length of a nose can be shortened with a
dark contour. With a slant-tip brush, apply shading at the end of the
nose, under the tip, over the nostrils.
Highlighting
the face:
Brush a spot at the centre of the forehead and a spot at the centre of
the chin. Brush some highlighter just above either cheekbone, directly
down from the outer corner of the eye. Blend with foundation. A
receding chin can be accentuated by brushing highlighter over the
entire chin. Start from under the mouth and bring the highlighter all
the way out to the jaw. It should cover the whole chin. Blend with
base.
Understanding your face:
A proper and complete study of one's facial features is essential
before deciding on the make-up. Find out if your face is oval, round,
heart-shaped, square, oblong or an inverted triangle. Is your neck
long or short, firm or wrinkled? Look at the colour of your eyes. Are
they deepset or protruding, close together or far apart? Are the lids
heavy or narrow or red rimmed? See if there are dark circles or bags
under your eyes. Examine your eyebrows and decide if they are bushy,
naturally arched, thin, straight, far apart or meeting over the nose.
Look at the size and shape of your nose. See if it is thin, broad or
crooked. Are your lips full or thin, are they distinctly outlined or
blurry shaped? Consider if you have a pointed chin or a square,
receding, strong or heavy jaw. Note the width of your forehead. Even
if some of the features are unattractive or 'bad', they may lend a
uniqueness and real character to the face. Identify these features
which define your individuality.