If you have decided which breed(s) you are interested in adding to your family your primary mission is to get a standard for these breeds. Any reputable kennel should have standards available and should be willing to give you a copy (these are available in our kennel pack). The standard will describe the ideal type of dog for the breed, arming you with, at the least, the description of the breed and faults that are disqualifying. This tool will assist you in making a decision in whether the breeder(s) you choose have correct breeding stock. It is imperative that you buy only from sound stock (see genetics), it will save you a lot of heartbreak in the future. Most improperly bred animals are destroyed, at some point, or end up at the local humane shelters. Make sure you understand all of the hereditary problems involved in a specific breed, and ALL breeds have genetic faults. Make sure that any breeder that you contact tests against the faults that their breed carries...if you visit ask for copies of testing results.

BREEDING DEFINITIONS:

Pedigree - A family tree, depicts the animal’s directly related (e.g. sire (father)/dam(mother) usually to the fourth generation) ancestors to a given animal.

Linebreeding- A breeding where the Sire and Dam have one or more direct ancestors generally in the 2nd or third generation of the pedigree. Would be similar to breeding 2nd, 3rd or 4th cousins. This is the most common type of breeding that occur.

Inbreeding-A breeding where the Sire and Dam are directly related, as in Father/Daughter, Mother/Son, Brother/Sister. Though strongly frowned on by most breeders, inbreeding may be used to “prove” a breeding program. That is to say the kennel line or breeder’s attempt to produce a particular type of animal. Inbreeding can be used to show what genetic strengths or weaknesses are inherent in one’s breed program. NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE NOVICE BREEDER!!

Outcrossing-A breeding where the sire and dam have no obvious ancestors. Generally used to infuse a line with stronger traits or to add a desired genetic base or type.

Pedigree-the pedigree is a TOOL the knowledgeable breeder uses to assist in the choice of animals she/he breeds or is trying to produce. Knowing one’s lines (animals in the pedigree) is extremely important. A breeder should be aware of what the animals in their pedigree is capable of producing and/or what they look like. This is not always possible, however, because every animal in a pedigree contributes to the end results! The pedigree should be explained by the breeder and ANY faults and strengths should be pointed out. Would you buy a car or house without knowing of any potential problems? Why would you invest in a living animal that may be unsound or unsuitable for your home.

PURCHASING A PUPPY OR DOG....THINGS TO CONSIDER.

1. One of the first things to consider when purchasing a puppy or any animal is that a good breeder is going to question you as much as you will want to question them. Be prepared, go with an attitude of open mindedness, some questions may seem to pry into your personal life, however, they are intended to provide YOU with the best animal, one that fits your lifestyle and need. Be prepared to hear, “I’m sorry I don’t have anything that fits your needs at the moment.” It is not a statement that is a reflection of you, it is that the breeder understands your needs, however, she or he understand the needs of her dogs even better and those should be the first and foremost concern of a good breeder. If you’re comfortable with a particular breeder and would like to own one of their animals, talk with them about how you can come closer to meeting criterion, and if they believe they’ll have something for you soon put a deposit on an upcoming litter. Better to get an animal that totally fits your needs, rather than go with one that you fall in love with but won’t fit into your lifestyle. Your breeder knows the needs of her or his dogs and should feel it’s of primary importance to match the dog with the best person.

Be aware that a lot of breeders will not sell a puppy to you via a phone call or first visit, we don’t. This is due to the overwhelming amount of rescue that we do. If you are not interested in breeding or showing a rescue dog or puppy may be ideal for you. Consider them as an alternative. Too many breeders and clients rush into a sale only to be disappointed in the future.

2. Another consideration we feel is important, WHY did your breeder to make the decision to breed this particular litter? Why this particular male/female. A sound breeder should be able to tell you why she/he decided to breed these two particular animals, she/he should have a definitive answer: to add something to their breed program, to produce a particular type of animal for future inclusion in their program, to prove their lines (this would be on a direct line-breeding. A breeder should have a reason for producing a litter, NEVER because “fifi” came in season and we thought she should have one litter, or to show their children the miracle of nature. Animals do not NEED to reproduce, reproduction does not improve temperament, in some cases it can cause or even intensify negative traits already displayed by the animal. Only those animals that are of correct and sound to which ever standard their breed calls for should ever be bred. Animals with obvious faults should never be used as breeding stock. (Information on genetics)

Health is of paramount importance. The kennel should be clean, with no or very little odor. Fecal matter should be nonexistent or if present obviously fresh (it’s hard to keep a kennel 100% clean 100% of the time). Water supply should be abundant and fresh. Animals should be in safe surroundings with no overcrowding.

The appearance of the dogs should be of good health, adults should have good healthy coats, clean and shining. The dam (mother) may not be in the best shape, most females blow (loose) their fur after whelping the puppies and may not have them back when you view them. If she appears in good health otherwise ignore her coat. Some breeders of German Shepherd Dogs keep their dogs lean, this is acceptable though foreign to Americans...check your standards and the overall health of the dog, let their eyes and coat be a primary judge of health.

Puppies should be rolly polly, with no distended abdomens, usually a sign of worms. While their kennel may not be totally fecal free they should not be “dancing” in any fecal matter and they should not be overcrowd. Usually large litters are split up according to sex and available space. Fur should be dirt free and shiny, eyes bright, breath should smell clean and toenails should be short. The puppies themselves should be alert and excited by their surroundings, toys should be evident to stimulate them.

1. Genetics: Genetics play a major part in the health of the dog or puppy you will be choosing; Here the pedigree should be explained, each dog’s faults and strengths gone over. Ask questions! Were the animals in the lines tested for genetic faults, how did they rate? Were the sire and dam tested, see copies of their tests results! Knowing what faults are in the lines of your perspective puppy or adult will allow you to make the best decisions; there is NO SUCH THING AS A FAULTLESS DOG OR PUPPY. Even if the faults aren’t evident to the eye, the genetic ability to throw or carry is there, testing can lessen these faults and in some cases cause them to be almost nonexistent. Again, your responsibility is to KNOW the genetic faults of the breed you choose and make sure that they have been tested for and bred against in your puppy or dogs lines. A good breeder is ever vigilant in breeding these faults out and will be able to discuss the issues with you. This is an interesting site on genetics.

2. Vaccinations: Puppies should have their vaccinations schedule started no later than six weeks of age, every breeder has a different idea about vaccination (not schedule but type). Make sure you set aside the time to discuss vaccinations with your veterinarian. Some breeders use live, killed or modified vaccine, some give all of the vaccines at one time (DHLPP/CB). Some, like myself, give a broken up vaccination: DHLP/C (Distemper, Hepatitis/Leptospirus/Parainfluenza/Corona Virus) one week and a week later the Parvo and Bordettella (kennel cough), this is continued until the puppy is then 13 weeks old and a booster is given at 6 months; rabies can now safely be given at 4 months. Be prepared to have your breeder want to keep the puppy until the end of the vaccination period, some kennels do, some don’t. We prefer to make sure your puppy is fully immunized before leaving the kennel, however we do require that he/she leave no sooner then the second series of shots at 10 weeks. This is to help you and to make sure the puppy is better immunized to go out into the world.

3. Diet: Like humans the food can make the dog. Make sure that the breeder is feeding a high quality dog food. Dogs are carnivores, NOT vegetarians or even omnivores, to any true extent. Their diet should be primarily of meat and the food should contain NO corn (a lot of breeds have corn allergies) or soy (in the big breeds this can cause bloat, and bloat can cause death). If your puppy or dog is not eating the best food it will not grow properly and you will not have the healthiest dog. Talk with your veterinarian, breeders and READ the back of dog food for their ingredients. The primary food source should be MEAT with very few fillers, the only grain filler we recommend is rice.

4. Temperament: Breeders should test the temperament of each litter. Puppies should be stimulated by a number of noises and situations to verify their reactions. ANY instability in an animal should be suspect and an unstable animal must be destroyed, of course the breeding should not be repeated. Standoffishness is a trait of many breeds; FEAR is not and could make for a dangerous situation. Breeders who do not test their litters are the reason there have been such problems in so many breeds. DON’T LET YOUR FAMILY BECOME A STATISTIC. A breeder should allow/welcome your request to see the litter or a puppy tested, however, unless you are a well respect trainer/breeder yourself it’s not very likely the breeder will allow you to test the animals yourself. This is because, unwittingly, you may actually cause a problem by being inexperienced. Puppies should be well socialized and exposed, after at least 2 series of shots, to new and different surroundings and situations.

As you can see there is a great deal involved in producing a litter of good quality puppies. Each of these aspects, and more, are considered when setting a price for a puppy. Breeding a good quality animal is an expensive endeavor. A good quality female can cost as much as three or four thousand dollars, in some breeds. Stud service for a good quality male can range from six hundred dollars to over twelve hundred, depending on the breed, titles and structure. Add to this, maintenance: food, vaccinations, training, additional care for pregnant females, emergency care, standard veterinarian services, etc., for the breeding animal. Then add more for litter maintenance, again food, vaccinations, veterinarian care, time and training and you will begin to see why a puppy you have chosen might carry the price it does.

Yes, there are breeders available that have, at best mediocre or poor stock but YOU are going to get what you pay for. Some of these breeders place the same prices on their poor stock as the good breeders. They figuring that they can also get what the market, or uneducated buyers will bear. Again, it is up to you to educate yourself.

SOME DEFINITIONS you may hear in pricing of litters are Pet Quality, Breeding Quality and Show Quality. Here is what they mean to the breeder. I will use examples of my own breed.

1. Pet Quality. A pet quality animal is one that does not hold close to the definition of the standard of the breed. It may be a puppy or adult that is long coated or off color (has extensive white markings, blue or liver colored... as in my breed's standard), soft or hanging ears (my breeds ears are held erect), poor structure, bad bite (either over or undershot). Anything that seriously deviates from the standard. These animals will usually (always for my kennel) be sold with an alter contract, if they have not already been “fixed”. They should NEVER be used as breeding stock as their gene pool will not add anything to the breed.

Let me say here that a "PET Quality" Puppy doesn't have a thing to do with whether or not a client has no intentions of showing or breeding a puppy, it is the quality of type according to the breed standard.

2. Breeding Quality. This is an animal that deviates slightly from the breed standard definition. An ear may have been broken as a puppy and is hanging, though the cartilage is strong, the structure may not be as perfect as the standard calls for but only mildly so, coloring may be washed out or muddy or the breeder may just be ‘put off” by the animal itself.

3. Show Quality. This is the animal that the breeder is striving to produce in every litter. It presents as closely to the standard as possible in every way.

Prices vary significantly by quality. Rarely does one litter not have all three varieties, as stated above there is no such thing as a fault free animal, whether genetically or in appearance. It is every good breeders desire to breed as close to the standard as possible to produce litters as close to the standard as HUMANLY possible. The closer to a uniformly good litter the better the breeding. Of course all breeders hope that their puppies and adults will end up as loved pets, however, there isn’t a breeder out there that will sell a Show Quality or breeding quality animal at a pet price. If you want the better quality dog, please honor the work that the breeder has done by paying the full price, whether you intend to show or breed the dog.

Of course this is just an overview. However, it should give you and idea of where to start in your endeavor to purchase the right puppy or adult for your home.

See Brief History of the GSD for more information on the hip ratings...I think you may be surprised










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