The Crofters from the Western Isles

by Bert McKay © 1974

(from The Western Producer, Thursday, December 5, 1974)

Ninety-one years ago a determined band of hardy Scottish crofters left the Hebrides in the spring of 1883 to sail for their new homes on the prairies of far-off Canada. They came from Skye and the tiny islands of Benbecula and South Uist, chilly and rugged along the edges of the stormy Atlantic, where living had been precarious on tiny holdings and in homes of sod and log, with dirt floors and smoky fireplaces.

For all the hardships of life on those isolated bits of land and rock, there was sadness as this first group of crofters, their wives and families, started off into the unknown. This small group was the advance guard of a much larger group to sail in 1884.

The concern at leaving home for the vast unknown was perhaps eased by this message given at dockside, by one who had been away to other parts of the world: "Look to your little boat... you may go aboard and turn it adrift to the four winds of heaven, let them drive you where they will, be sure of one thing, that you cannot find land anywhere in the civilized world where it will not be easier to make a living than in the places you are leaving today."

Thus heartened, the sails were set.

* * *

A settlement of Scottish crofters was proposed by Lady Gordon Cathcart in 1882. Her idea was to first assist six to 12 families from her estates to settle in the "Northwest" as a basis for a Gaelic speaking Scottish West Highland colony.

The projected area was 25,000 acres. Lady Cathcart's agents were from the firm of Skene, Edwards and Bilton. On June 9, 1883, A. Walsh, commissioner of Dominion lands, informed the minister of the interior that Thomas Bennett, immigration agent at Brandon, Manitoba, was empowered to select lands for the Cathcart settlers in either the Birtle, Man., district, or the Qu'Appelle areas in Saskatchewan.

But some crofters had, by that time, already been settled in the St. Andrew's rural district, southwest of Moosomin, Sask.

That first contingent, after 14 days on the Atlantic under almost constant iceberg warnings, arrived at Moosomin around the end of May. They were led by Donald McDiarmid, who had been sent out the previous year to scout land for Lady Cathcart.

Some of the settlers spoke only Gaelic and were in need of an English-speaking guide and counsellor as they landed in Canada and endured that long, weary trip through the wilds of northern Ontario in one of those famous (or infamous) colonist cars. On arrival at Moosomin they were put up in tents until the necessary implements and supplies were rounded up.

Each family was given 100 pounds sterling (about $500) by Lady Cathcart to cover passage and acquire supplies. After they had established themselves they were to pay back this loan at five percent interest. In 1884, 40 more families came to the Moosomin area, under the same arrangements.

* * *

Of the families who came in 1883, nine were Protestant families and five were Roman Catholic. The two creeds lived in harmony, as did the many of the two faiths who came in the following years.

It is indeed surprising to read the ages of those first intrepid souls who left the misty Hebrides for the Western plains. The oldest crofters were 66 and 64 years of age and both lived several active years in the still-Gaelic settlement. The youngest bachelor was 20 years old and there were children of various ages.

The original settlers retained the lovely Gaelic tongue, some learning but little English. The second generation retained some talent with the mother tongue, but the third generation did not pick up the Gaelic and it is seldom heard in the area today.

Donald McDonald was 66 years of age and his wife 64 when they made the long tough journey. Roderick McDonald was 57 and his wife 48; Angus McCormick was 56 and his wife Marion was 55; Lachlan McPherson was 48 and his wife Christy was 30.

Donald McDonald and his wife were 40, John McDonald and his wife were only 30, and William McPherson and his wife a little younger.

Alex McPherson was 32 and his wife Effie was 24; Alex McDonald was 35 and his wee wife was 26. Ewen McKinnon and his sister, Mary, were about 40 years of age, neither of them married.

There were two young bachelors of 20, Donald McKay and Archie McDonald and another single man, John Buchanan, rounded out the group, plus the children.

* * *

The second group of crofters, in 1884, landed at Quebec and took the train for Owen Sound. They then came by lake steamer, the Algoma, who was making her maiden voyage. So little space had been allowed for the settlers that their agent delayed the sailing of the vessel until better accommodation had been provided. The captain was furious but when word came directly from the government department, the changes were made. It was the only trip that vessel made, the Algoma being lost on her second venture on the lake waters.

When the larger of group of crofters, with many children, arrived at Moosomin in the spring of 1884, they were put up in tents in Moosomin while supplies were arranged. The Land Office was in a half-floored tent, and the store was half frame, half tent.

At last the party, with plodding oxen and carts of supplies, plus some loose livestock, were ready to start for the "Promised Land" 15 miles away. Bits of snow still lingered in the bushes.

There was mud everywhere. The trail was but a faint track and the party stretched back for half a mile. Mr. Hopeby, the land guide, led the way, but went back often to help the loads finding difficulty.

As they reached the top of the deep valley of the Pipestone Creek, the party halted and Mr. Hopeby came hurrying up from the rear. The weary and doubting Scots were looking down from the hill into the valley, which had been burned over by a prairie fire leaving only the blackened slopes and charred remains. It was a heart-chilling sight for those who had never heard of a prairie fire in those mist-shrouded islands of home.

One old Scot, his hands high above his head, said, "We have braved the terrors of the Atlantic and the waste lands of Ontario, in our search for the Promised Land, but behold we come to the Valley of the Shadow of Death... which we shall not cross."

Mr. Hopeby was all but worn out in the several hours it took the crofters to finally believe they must cross the black and ash-filled valley before they could reach the green land that lay just behind the far hill. Finally, when the sun had set on the scene, and hid the bare black hillsides, the group passed across the valley (although it took all night), and the next evening they reached their homesteads, in three tiny settlements which they named St.Andrew's, Benbecula and Iona, all familiar names in Scotland, the three lying within about 15 miles of Moosomin, then the largest town on the newly-laid main line of the C.P.R.

* * *

Their early years on those new homesteads were tough indeed, with holes dug in the hillsides made into temporary homes, but life had also been hard on the wind-swept islands of home. These people were accustomed to hard work and hard living, a combination that was to finally establish them soundly in their new homes. They prospered in spite of the frost and hail and, in most cases, raised large families. The children were raised to be grateful for any blessings, to work for the welfare of the colony as well as for their own progress, and followed in the footsteps of their God-fearing, honest and thrifty parents.

On Aug. 6, 1885, the editor of the Moosomin Courier visited the "Skye Crofters" and printed this report:

"We went on to visit the crofters from Skye, a large number of whom have been settled on the North West Land Company. Our first call was at the home of James Miller at the 12-13-33. We met Mr. Miller at the door of his mansion which, viewed from the outside, resembled a large size 'Ontario potato pit' or what is called in that eastern province, a 'root house'.

"The Miller residence appeared to have been an excavation in the side of an elevation on the Prairie, covered with an inclined roof, which was plastered with white clay. The outside walls, at the highest point were not over three feet, but to judge from the depth of the windows and doors, they were from three to four feet thick. Mr. Miller told us he had about 20 acres in crop, mostly wheat, which was looking splendid. He appeared to be well pleased with his location and surroundings. He had a log house under construction and expected to be living in it by fall.

"Our next call was at the domicile of Findlay Macdonald. Here we were introduced to Mrs. Macdonald and thereby afforded an interior view of the Crofter's dwelling. Before describing the interior, allow us to remark that these dwellings, as viewed from the outside, all present the same model and style of architecture. After passing through a somewhat narrow and lengthy entrance, resembling the outside drain to an Ontario farmhouse cellar before it has been covered, we found ourselves in the lobby or hall with rooms on either side. On one side was the stove and cooking utensils and on the other we presumed were the sleeping rooms... judging by what we saw coming out in the way of half-dressed humanity. However, perhaps we were calling earlier than is customary in the neighbourhood, and thus the "deshabille" is accounted for. Mr. Macdonald told us he had about 16 acres under crop, mostly wheat, and said that it was doing fine. He liked the country fine but the good wife was not so well pleased. On that day he was commencing his haying.

"From here we drove to the residence of Donald McKinnon and this was another house of the same structure. Mr. McKinnon had 16 acres under crop wheat, oats and barley. He had a very good selection of young stock, a good garden and was contented.

"Our next stopping place was the home of Mr. McAlpine, another Scot, who had only eight acres in crop. He had struck bad luck with one of his oxen being sick, and thus putting him back with his work. Otherwise he liked the country first class and had great hopes of his new home.

"From here we drove to Mr. Cameron's and found that this gentleman has a very comfortable home, a splendid garden and everything looking good.

"At Mr. McLeod's we found the crops had been damaged considerably by hail. Potatoes, wheat and oats, all had suffered more or less and it is needless to say that this gentleman was not very well pleased, but his motto is 'nil desperandum'.

"At James Stewart's farm we had dinner. This gentleman had suffered to a considerable extent from hail. He had a very fine lot of turnips entirely destroyed by the hail storms.... and if we are to judge by Mrs. Stewart's conversation she is about disgusted with the country. They have a good, large and comfortable log house and are people who are destined to overcome obstacles and go forward. They spoke in high praise of the North West Land Co., saying that they had helped them every way they could. And they believed that they would yet get along all right.

"At the McKinnon farm, the only thing planted in 1884 was a plot of potatoes. But, in 1885, there was plenty of sun and showers and in early August prospects were bright indeed. Then came the first hailstorm the family had ever seen and in 20 minutes nothing was left. Hardy folks, they are, and instead of wringing their hands, their Gaelic 'Toil dhe robh deante; cha n'eil air a chruaidh fhorstan'ach an acruaidh chosnadh' is translated as 'God's will be done; the cure for misfortune is harder work and perseverance.'"

* * *

The rugged conditions under which the crofters lived began to ease after the third year, but for at least one family, the year of 1886 was a cruel one. The Moosomin Courier carried this item on Feb. 11, 1886.

"Norman McDonald, a native of Inverness-shire, Scotland, came three years ago to the Crofter settlement of Lady Cathcart, living there with his wife and two children. Two years ago he lost his house and all the family belongings in a fire, leaving them completely destitute. Charitable people came to their aid and they got over the very worst of their troubles. In January, while working in a bluff to get wood, Norman had both feet badly frozen. He is now helpless and fears amputation. His wife had both heels frozen and is unable to work. The house is a hovel of earth and poplar poles, with no hinges on the door. Neighbours are helping and medical aid is being sought."

Conditions continued to improve in the late eighties and while some of the crofters were unable to pay off their debt, and had to move to other land, the colony prospered and became one of the most productive in the region. Third generation family members now operate the thriving farms.



See also "A Short History of the Pioneer Scotch Settlers of St. Andrews, Saskatchewan" by James N. MacKinnon (1871-1946), Regina 1921.
The early history - and some biography and family history - of two Scottish settlements south and west of Wapella, Saskatchewan.

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