Adding a puppy or even a older dog to a household is usually a relatively painless experience, but the relationship can go sour if the puppy or dog is ruining carpets, chewing up furniture or generally "running amuck". Puppies don't intentionally get into trouble. It's just that they are much like 2 year old humans and can't resist all the tempting things in our houses, leather shoes, couch cushions, table legs, garbage, paper towels, remote controls, figurines at puppy level or at a level where they can get by jumping on top of something else.  Just like children, you have to puppy proof your house, even if you do use a crate, for those times when you might leave the room for a few minutes. It doesn't matter how many toys he has of his own, he will still find "yours" more enticing. Crating can solve these problems as well as many others and serves a not only a place of confinement for your pet, out of harms way and out of trouble, but a great tool for housebreaking.

It must be remembered that dogs are den animals and therefore prefer to sleep in small, close places. They need a place where they can go "to get away from it all", a place to hide special toys. This is why they often curl up under the bed, behind the TV, under the back porch or under a chair or table.Teaching the dog or puppy to ride in the crate in your vehicle may even save his life, not to mention keep him out from underfoot while you are trying to drive.  Crates have often prevented severe injury to dogs in car wrecks. Not only do they provide protection, but they also keep the dog from escaping and getting injured or killed by passing cars. 

When you travel and must stay at a hotel, motel or relatives houses, the crate is excellent for use in your room, and a properly trained dog can be left in the room while you go out to eat. Many motels are much more willing to accept pets if they know they will be crated, thus preventing the room from being destroyed.

Oftentimes, your veterinarian might presribe cage rest or confinement for your dog to treat an ailment. The crate is a perfect place for this as well.

The first type is often made of thick molded plastic, the kind used by airlines to transport animals. These crates come in two parts, a top and bottom, are easy to disassemble and clean, and are relatively light weight. These are about the only type of crate, with the exception of the metal crate,which are approved by the FTA for the transport of animals on airlines or other types of transports. They provide not only insulation from heat and cold, but also adequate ventilation to meet all Federal requirements. The only exception is the transport of dogs overseas, and this requires additional ventilation holes to be drilled in the back section. This type of crate also affords the dog a more den-like atmosphere and thus a feeling of security.  The latches on these crates are quite often very secure and dog proof. This type of crate is also much safer in the case of  car wrecks than the wire which can bend and allow the dog to be punctured by a broken wire or escape through the contorted or broken crate.

  The second type are wire crates, which provide total ventilation and unfortunately offer no feeling of den or security unless covered with a blanket or other cover. If you purchase or use this type of crate you must decide what is more important to your dog or puppy, the ventilation or privacy.  These crates come in various model, some which fold up nicely, other which fold up quite awkwardly, and some that only come apart and do not fold at all. If you plan to take your dog with you, transportability is another consideration.  These crates are frequenly quite heavy, as well, depending on the brand, gauge of wire, and size.  Latches vary widely, from simple slide mechanisms to twisting mechanism to spring operated single or double latches. The simpler latches must be secured with a snap clip to prevent dogs from opening them.

For beagles, the 200 size airline crate is perfect for most adults, measuring about 24" in length. A comparable sized wire crate would be acceptable. This size is a bit large, however for the 13" variety, and they may require one of the slightly smaller size Pet Taxis or similar wire crate, measuring about 21-22 inches in length.

For basset hounds, the 300 or 400 size airline crate, measuring about 32 and 36" in length, respectively is fine. Again, comparable sized wire crates.

Introduce the puppy or dog to the crate by tossing a treat inside, and saying "(Pup/Dog's Name), Crate!" in a very happy tone and urge the dog inside, tossing the treat into the back of the crate at the same time. Let the puppy get the treat and come back out if he likes. Repeat the action a few times until the dog seems to be getting the idea of the command. You might also try the command from further back from the crate each time.  At this time do not close the door.

Now, you will also start feeding the puppy his meals in the crate with the door open. If he seems to be accepting the crate well, you can begin to close the door, letting him out once he finishes.  This is an excellent way to know exactly how much food your dog is eating and you can control his diet accordingly.  It will prevent other dogs from getting his food and him theirs.

Once your dog or puppy is confident in going into the crate and eating there, you can begin to leave him in there with the door closed for short periods of time, again, prefacing each crate session with the command and a treat. Gradually increase the time, both with you in and out of the room.  If he whines or barks, go back and bang the top of the crate and tell him "No, quiet!" in a deep tone of voice, repeating as necessary until he is quiet.  Do not let him out of the crate as long as he is noisy, or he will think he has won the battle.

If he is repeatedly noisy in his crate at night, you could try moving the crate to your bedroom.  Here your scent is stronger than anywhere else in the house and it will help him to feel closer to you.  Another suggestion is to put an old, unwashed t-shirt or other item in the crate with the puppy (again, something you don't mind being ruined).  If he is noisy or restless during the night, take him out, and bring him back in once he has finished his business and put him back in the crate.    Please remember it may take several months before a young puppy can go all night without needing out.

Once the dog matures, he can be given more freedom, but you will always have his special place there if he needs it or wants it.

When housetraining a puppy, set up a schedule for the puppy's meals, playtime, crate time and trips outside, and follow it closely. The puppy  or even older dog who is not housebroken, should be taken outside to eliminate after waking from a nap, or in the morning,  and after eating. Puppies should be taken out additionally after playtime and about every 3 hours in between.  If you are a working dog owner, don't plan on leaving the puppy alone in its crate from 9 until 6. that is entirely too long for a puppy, although an older dog might be able to "hold it" that long.  If you must be gone this long, confine the puppy in an easy to clean area, such as the kitchen, bathroom or laundry room, or have a neighbor come to play with the puppy and take it outside a few times while you are gone. Again, make sure the place you confine the puppy is destruction proof, and place his crate in the area, so he will have his familiar den there.