The term 'GUINEA PIG' has an unknown factual origin since it did not come from GUINEA in Africa, but from Peru in South America; and, it is completely unrelated to a pig! It is, however, one of the most rewarding pets a human can have. At the present time, the Cavy is recognized in 13 different breeds by the American Cavy Breeders Association (2 new breeds are pending) and all these breeds embrace four groups which consist of approximately 32 different color varieties and patterns. The Cavy's eyesight is very poor and this is why they startle so easily. But, its' hearing and sense of smell are excellent and for this reason an owner should always 'announce' themselves when they enter the room where the Guinea Pig lives. A simple "IT'S ME!" will suffice. Cavies are, by nature, nocturnal animals, but they adapt well to their human's hours for care, feeding and play. All breeds of Cavies are subject to classifications and weights. Juniors are up to four months of age with weights between 12-22 ozs. Intermediates are up to six months of age with weights between 22-32 ozs. And, a senior is any cavy over 32 ozs. Some can weight in at as much as 54 ozs. or more!
HOUSING
A 14 x 24 x 16 cage is adequate in size for a single cavy. If you are planning to be a two pet family, a cage of 24 x 24 x16 is recommended. Cavies must be kept on solid floors because of the delicacy of their
feet. A bedding of clean pine shavings over a layer of newsprint is favored; however, clean shredded paper can be used. Redwood, treated shavings, or cedar chips are not recommended. An aquarium or plastic tub/bin of approximately the same area in size may be used in place of a wire or wire/plastic cage. Your cavy can be kept outside. However, it must be in a protected environment - a shed, porch, or garage. Cavies can tolerate temperature change and very cold conditions (to about 40 degrees), but they cannot tolerate sudden drafts. This could cause your pet to get the 'common cold', this is your cavies #1 enemy and you should guard against it at all cost.
Also remember that your cavy has no weapons to fight extreme heat or sun.
Be sure that in warmer climates or summer months, your cavy has shade and
temperatures no higher than 80 degrees in the shade. Humidity plays a
large part in raising the known temperature so take that into consideration in
understanding your animals' comfort level.
FEEDING
Cavies, like humans and monkeys, cannot store vitamin C and have to orally intake this vitamin every day to prevent scurvy. If you are using fresh cavy pellets or feeding veggies approximately every two days, your vitamin C is incorporated in your feed program; but, if you are unsure of these things, the easiest way to supply vitamin C is directly in their water bottle. (Crocks are not recommended for
water.) Vitamin C is available in powder form for this purpose or you can purchase generic vitamin C, non coated tables in your grocery or drug store. Yes, human tables. Place 1/2 tablet into the bottle each day when you change the water. This should take care of the vitamin C problem. You cannot over vitamin C your
animal. Any vitamin C not used by your animal will be naturally eliminated.
Pelleted feed should be available via crock to your cavy; feeding once a day. The amount of feed depends on the size of the animal - usually 1/3 cup of pellets. Commercially available Guinea Pig pellets are nutritionally complete and should be the mainstay of your charges' diet. Cavy pellets are favored over rabbit pellets because they have the vitamin C already incorporated in their make-up. That is, of course, if they are fresh. It should be noted that shelf time can reduce the vitamin content in the pellets. Vegetables and/or fruits can be given to your cavy and it will love them. Romaine, Kale, and Parsley are among the highest with Vitamin C content. Carrots and an apple slice are welcomed too. If you are giving vitamin C in the water,
vegetables are not needed on a daily basis. However, if the only vitamin C your pet is receiving is via veggies, they must be given daily; however, there is no need to over-load your animals with veggies - a half of a leaf of romaine for example would be sufficient on a daily basis per animal.
An additional needed food source [for fiber and digestion] is fresh Timothy Hay
or Orchard Grass. In the wild and in Europe, cavies are considered a
grazing animal and hay is a balanced food source they enjoy and need.
Alfalfa Hay is NOT Recommended.
BREEDING
A male cavy (BOAR) should be five months of age before entering the breeding program. A female cavy (SOW) should be at least senior weight and be approximately three months old before breeding. Placing your boar and sow in a cage together does not mean you will see young in 68 to 70 days - The Cavy Gestation Period. Cavies breed only when in season. This occurs about every 13 to 15 days. However, it is necessary to note the date you first put your breed pair
together on a calendar and count forward 68 days - this will give you an approximate date that your sow could produce a litter. If after 30 days your sow is starting to look like a bowling pin, you can be fairly sure that she is 'IN PIG'. Around the 68th day
remove the boar from the cage. Shortly little ones should appear. Even the most experienced cavy breeder cannot predict the exact date a litter will be delivered - it is a watching and waiting game. Do not remove your boar until the sow has actually started to gain weight and shows distinct signs of being 'IN PIG' - i.e.: looking like a bowling pin ... no nest box is
needed.
Please note that sows generally enjoy good and complication free
pregnancies. However, Pregnancy Toxemia can develop without a word of
warning in some sows. Therefore, to try and prevent this condition, when
your sow is about five days from delivery, add 1/4 teaspoon of regular table
sugar to 16 ounces of water in her regular water bottle. This will
encourage her to drink more water, stay hydrated and add to her energy
level. While doing this you may feed a slightly larger amount of Kale or
Romaine as you will be discontinuing the vitamin C in the water bottle due to
the adding of the sugar. You can continue with the 'sugar water' until the
kits are one week old as it will also encourage them to try the water bottle.
The litter will be born on the shavings and will be cleaned and chattering within about 30 minutes. While your sow has her litter, you will have to increase her feed accordingly as the young will be eating her pellets as well as nursing within a few days. If you should lose your sow while she is giving birth but the young survive - DON'T PANIC. New born cavies are just
miniatures of the parents and will take regular room temperature milk right from an eyedropper. They should be fed like this every four to six hours. Leave their pellets in the crock as the kits will be eating pellets when they are not sucking the
eyedropper dry or sleeping. After giving them the milk and returning them to their cage, show them the water bottle by tapping the stem. Soon they'll be eating and drinking on their own. You'll miss the feedings more than they will. You can
introduce them to vegetables when they are about two weeks old. You wean cavies by sight and sound. Young boars start to 'purr' and 'strut' around the cage bothering their sisters and/or mother. Take the boars out when this is noticed. they can breed at this point. The young sows can stay with their mother indefinitely if you don't plan to breed them immediately. Your sow can be bred about 40 days after her delivery date of this first litter. It is not recommend that she have more than three litters a year. A boar can breed 1 to 15 sows at one time if you wish to try a colony breeding in a very large cage/pen. He should be rested between these strenuous breedings.
BATHING
Although Bath Time won't be your cavies happiest moment, it is essential to its' health and hygiene to
give a bath periodically.
Mycodex Shampoo is recommended although any good pet shampoo for cats/kittens can be used. We have heard of breeders using Johnson's Baby Shampoo, Pert and Revlon's products without any ill effects on the animals and they seem to leave the coats silky and clean. Just remember that a good rinse is necessary with any and all shampoo products.
It is recommended that you hold your cavy in your hand at all times if possible. Holding your cavy gently but firmly either immerse the cavy in warm water or hold it under running water to wet the body. Keep the cavies' head OUT of the water at all times. After the body is wet, gently rub in the shampoo of choice and suds away. Then, rinse the cavy under warm water until all the shampoo is removed from the coat. If mites or lice are the reason for the bath you should be using a treated
shampoo like Mycodex and you should go around the cavies' face and ears with your wet, soapy hand. Don't get too many suds around the face area as it will be very hard to rinse. Just get enough of the product around this area so that the 'critters' don't take up residence on the head of your cavy after its' bath. After total rinsing, and a gentle rub-down with a towel, it's time for the blow dryer ... sitting on the floor or in a chair, place the towel on your lap and position the cavy with its' head toward your body. Using a small brush or comb and the blow dryer set on the lower temperature, gently run it back and forth over the cavies' body from tail to head. Every few
minutes, turn off the dryer and give your cavy some assurance that this ordeal will be over soon. Then continue with the dryer and brush/comb until the cavy is totally dry. It is very important to make sure that your cavy is totally dry especially if you will be returning it to an outside cage or building. If you aren't sure, just let the cavy sit in a portable cage or box until you are sure that it's dry clear through.
Like any animal being prepared for show, the more you enter into the bath time ritual, the more it will become accustom to it. However, cavies are, in general, a clean animal and we don't recommend a bath more than once a month with time off during the usual non-show seasons.
Special Note: many boars develop a wax-like, matted
appearance over the rump area. If this is the reason for your charges'
intended bath, moisten the area with water and work in a small amount of Dawn
Dishwashing detergent. this is not a soap but a detergent and, therefore,
breaks-down the wax-like build up. Remember to double rinse this area when
using this product.
AND
In Addition to proper feed, clean (vitamin C) water, and good cage sanitation, frequent handing of your cavy should be considered as a matter of routine. Don't sell handling short. Handling develops familiarity and aids in promoting a more even disposition of the cavy.
Good Luck and Enjoy your cavy .....
