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  Cleaning and Storing
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Obviously, when it comes to cleaning cross stitch on bibs, towels, clothing
and napkins, do whatever it takes to get the piece clean.  If this means
throwing it into the washing machine with detergent and bleach, so be it.

However, the heirloom-to-be deserves special treatment or it may become the
heirloom-that-never-was.  Here are some suggestions that are very conservative
and cautious.  It seems safest to list many things that a stitcher might want
to know.  You are then free to use or ignore whatever you choose.

While you are stitching:

   ~ Always wash your hands before stitching, and keep them clean while you
     work.  Don't use hand lotion before stitching.  Keep your hands out of
     your hair, off your face, out of the popcorn, away from the pizza and far
     from the chocolate bar.

   ~ No smoking near the project.

   ~ Watch out for ink from highlighters, and toner from photocopies.

   ~ Cross stitch projects, especially those in scroll frames, make very nice
     cat beds.  You may choose to view any fur that works its way into the
     project as part of the design.  If not, try using a sticky lint remover
     or tweezers.

   ~ Don't store linens or fine fabrics in plastic for the long term.  The
     plastic can trap moisture and, over time, release chemicals.  However,
     storing projects in plastic while they are in progress can help to keep
     them clean.  This is assuming it takes less than 5 years to complete the
     project :-).

   ~ If you want to store a project-in-progress for a more than a few days,
     roll it rather than fold it.  Wrap it in cloth, preferably white.

   ~ If you use a hoop, remove the project after every stitching session.

   ~ Put your project in the hoop or bars backwards.  This prevents the front
     of the design from touching anything when the bars are set down.  It also
     provides more room on the back of the project for ending threads.

   ~ Try not to hold on to the project in a way that leaves your hand touching
     the front of the fabric.  For example, fold any extra fabric forward and
     hold the project there.  Some people like to use a layer of tissue or
     white flannel on top of the project, with an opening in the center to
     stitch through.  These can be fitted into a hoop, and provide something
     to hold onto.


When you are done stitching:

   ~ Always launder the project when completed.  No matter how often you wash
     your hands before stitching, there will be skin oils left which may cause
     stains and damage later on.

   ~ Avoid anything which cause the project to have long term (many year)
     exposure to chemicals.  For example, don't use Scotch Guard.

   ~ Do not dry clean, if at all possible. The chemicals can be gritty, and
     may have long term effects.  If the piece is lost at the cleaners, you
     will only be reimbursed for the cost of the materials.
     Some fabrics and fibers (wool and silk) may require dry cleaning.  If
     this is the case, go to a very reputable cleaner, and have a long talk
     about the best way for them to do the cleaning.

   ~ Hand wash each piece individually in cold or lukewarm water.  Use
     something which is pH balanced and has _no_ whitening agents.  This means
     something like Ivory Snow, Orvus paste (also used for washing horses and
     cows), Quilt Soap (which is Orvus soap packaged in small containers for
     people who don't need a gallon of it), Treasure Wash, etc.  Do not use
     Woolite, strong detergents or chlorine bleach as they may make the colors
     bleed.  Let the project soak for several minutes. Rinse thoroughly, but
     don't scrub or wring.  If the colors run, repeat the process until the
     water rinses clear.

   ~ Remove the piece from the water and place it on a clean, white, terry
     cloth towel.  Roll it up like a jelly roll, to remove the excess water.
     While still damp, lay it face down on a couple of towels and iron with a
     dry iron at the wool or linen setting until it is dry.  Try not to move
     the iron back and forth.  You may use a pressing cloth, in fact you
     _should_ use a pressing cloth if there are metallics.  The process of
     ironing until dry prevents uneven drying and puckering of the cloth and
     threads.  Let the project air dry another 24 hours before framing.

When catastrophe strikes, all the tips listed above should be ignored.  Just
do what you have to.  People on rec.crafts.textiles have used detergent,
bleach, hydrogen peroxide, Goop and ice to remove soda pop, rust, mold, vomit,
catsup and bleeding dyes.

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