Checked out of the hotel and headed for Wales since we were due on the high-speed ferry from Holyhead to Ireland the following day. We arrived in Chester (England) around noon, and spent a couple hours strolling the main streets, lined with the oriel windows and decorative timberwork the town is known for. First settled by the Romans in AD 79 near the River Dee, Chester is a lively town with abundant shopping and street musicians ("buskers"). The heart of town is the Chester Rows, with their two tiers of stores and continuous upper gallery, most notably at the intersection of Eastgate and Bride Streets.

From Chester, we drove towards Wales, and discovered Conwy Castle almost immediately after crossing the border. Then we headed for Ruthin. With the help of the Ruthin Tourist Information Office, we found a very nice place – The Clwyd Gate Motel - just outside town. I was entranced by the spectacular view of the Vale of Clywd, and the sheep music coming from the fields directly across the road. A veritable sheep choir it was, with low moaning bleats interspersed with the staccato soprano noise of the lambs. It was in a word, idyllic.

Never having been to one, I wanted to attend a medieval banquet at Ruthin Castle, but unfortunately, it was sold out that evening. So instead, we enjoyed all the conveniences we’d been doing without (space to move around in, comfortable beds, modern shower and WC, etc.), then tucked into a superb dinner from the motel’s restaurant.

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