We also visited the White Tower (which marks the start of the Tower of London’s history), the Tower Green (where some famous prisoners such as Sir Walter Raleigh were held, as well as two of Henry VIII’s wives – Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard – both of whom were beheaded there). The grounds at the Tower of London were lousy with ravens. Legend has it that Charles II was warned that should the ravens ever leave the Tower, the monarchy would fall. So he ordered that henceforth, a small population of ravens would always remain there. The Yeoman Warders (called "Beefeaters") were omnipresent in their distinctive navy blue tunics with red piping, giving tours and posing for pictures. The Tower of London Gift Shops (there are three) offer souvenirs of the Tower. Especially recommended is the Jewel House Shop with its exclusive jewelry and other products based on the Crown Jewels.

Leaving the Tower, we walked to the Church of England’s Westminster Abbey, entering through the Great North Door. We had to wait about 15-25 minutes in a line because our Heritage Passes weren’t accepted here. National leaders and great musicians are entombed here, along with Kings and Queens of England. Founded in the 11th century, Westminster Abbey features soaring vaults, breathtaking stained glass, and the Nave, the largest single span in the church. The Nave contains monuments such as The Tomb of the Unknown Warrior (1920), The Memorial to Winston Churchill (1874-1965), and the US Congressional Medal (1921). It is kept as a place of silence and prayer.

Then we hopped on the London Pride bus and rode to Covent Garden, which is kind of like a big English block party. Covent Garden features restaurants, shops, pubs, open-air markets, street musicians, and outdoor theater – literally, something for everyone. Between shopping forays, we stopped at the landmark Punch and Judy pub for an inexpensive lunch. The market stalls overflowed with everyhing from antique jewelry to fresh fruit and vegetables to souvenirs. Great people watching, too.

By now it was late afternoon, so we went back to the hotel, congratulating ourselves on having somehow escaped the curse of the international traveler – jetlag. Then we laid down, just planning to "rest our eyes". Right. We woke up starving at around midnight, wondering what had happened. We found a handful of places in London that served food into the wee hours, and chose one in Chinatown, which in retrospect, was really a bad idea. We managed to catch a taxi after walking up to Bayswater, and after a 10 pound ride, we were deposited at the end of a long, dark alleyway. The cabbie’s parting words were, "You know, a lot of people get stabbed down here!" as he drove off into the night. Wonderful. We crept down the alley, looking this way and that, fully prepared to be accosted. Finally, we ducked into the first place that was open – The Far East Chinese Restaurant. We could tell by the formica tables and the music booming in from the disco next door, that we were in for a treat. I won’t describe the meal here except to say it was greasy and suspicious-looking– definitely the worst meal we had on the whole trip. And all for only 30 pounds. The highlight of our visit was when one of the late-night denizens stumbled in from the disco next door, and recognizing us as Americans, tried to chat us up, asking if we watched the Jerry Springer Show all the time. Three in the A.M. – it was time to go.

Tuesday, May 26th