2.  Don't forget to include extra liner for extras such as shallow pools or waterfalls that you plan to use to enhance your pond.

3.  Dig your pond before you buy your liner!

4.  Do your electrical wiring first, and install a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter).

5. Plan on details, such as where you will get your rocks. We have plenty of large rocks sitting in nearby ditches, that are free for the taking. However, these are natural limestone, and may kill fish, and is a soft enough rock that a waterfall would wear the rock away. These can still be used in building up our waterfall, but not where they will come in direct contact with the water. Rocks can be purchased through garden and landscape centers, but the really large rocks run around $250 each in our area.

6.  Maximum height of a fountain should be 1/2 the width of the pond.

7.  If there is any foot traffic around the area you plan to dig your pond, provide for easy access around or over your pond, such as a path or bridge.

2.  Play with the shape of your intended pond with a garden hose. When you are happy with the shape, spray paint around the edges of the hose. Spray paint doesn't get in your way as you dig.

3.  Save all dirt until completely finished. You may think you won't need it, but if your plans change (a bigger waterfall perhaps?) you won't have to lug all that dirt back.

4.  When using newspaper as lining, wet it down to keep it in place.

5.  Lay liner out in the sun to make it easier to work with. Don't lay it on the grass though, as the heat will build up underneath and burn your grass. Wear shoes and gloves when laying your liner in your pond as it will get hot.

6.  To determine how many gallons your pond holds, fill a 5-gallon bucket with water using the water source you will use to fill your pond. Time how long it takes to fill the bucket. When filling your pond, time how long it takes to fill your pond and compare this to the time it took to fill your bucket.

7.  Be careful not to let the liner twist or stretch too much when filling the pond, as too much stress can cause the liner to rip or puncture.

8.  The sides of your pond should be vertical to keep Koi from jumping out. 15 degrees slope will prevent cave-ins.

9.  For best results, run flexible tubing through rigid PVC pipe & bury the return pipe (for waterfall) in a shallow trench. This will keep people from standing on the hose & pinching off the water supply, and it will make it easier to pull the tubing out in case of problems.

10.  Install filter between pond and waterfall or fountain.

11.  To increase water volume and enable you to have more fish, leave out the 18" plant shelf. Use weathered cinderblocks, which can be easily moved about, to set plants on. You will use the same amount of liner whether you have a shelf or not.

12.  If using large rocks on top of liner, add an extra layer of cushion under liner for protection.

13.  Edging (rocks) should extend over edge of water 1" to 2" to hide liner.

14.  For secure edging which can be walked on, set cinderblocks underneath liner and edging.

15.  If using mortar on rocks, first fill your pond. Set the stones in mortar, the drain the pond and clean pond Thouroughly!

16. Use spray foam instead of cement to fill in gaps and direct waterflow in your waterfall. Sprinkle sand on the foam while it is still wet or trim it with a knife and dab with dark latex paint for a more natural look.

2.  Float a log or plastic bowl on surface of pond in winter to help open up the ice if you don't have a water heater. Don't break the ice, as it can kill your fish.

3.  Remove filtration and water pumps at first frost.

4.  Install pumps on bricks or blocks to minimize clogging.

5.  A good rule of thumb - 1" of fish per square foot of surface area of pond, or 2" per square foot with water filtration.

6.  Oxygenating plants provide oxygen only during daylight, so provide filtration at night also! These plants release carbon dioxide during the night and can kill your fish.

7.   In winter, stop feeding fish when water temperature drops below 55 degrees. Shut off the biological filter & replace it with a heater if you have fish. Trim back hardy lilies & oxygenators at soil level & drop them to the lowest part of the pond. Pull lotus' out of the water, thouroughly wash off the roots & let dry for two days. Cut off all stalks and roots off of bulb and store bulb in a jar of distilled water in a cool place (55 degrees).

8.  In spring, turn on the biological filter when the water temperature reaches 60 degrees. Start feeding fish when water temperature reaches 65 degrees. Return plants to their origional position.

9.  Place net over pond to catch excess debis.

10.  Water lilies prefer still water.

11.  Place a basket (like strawberries come in, or buy one) to place over plants to protect the base of the plant from fish. They can still eat whatever grows outside the basket, but your plants will be protected.

12.  To keep water clear:
            a)  Pool size: pond should be over 100 gallons. The larger the pond, the easier it is
                 to maintain a cooler, more stable environment.
            b) Pool depth: Deep water also maintaings a cooler, stabler environment.
            c) Plants: Floating-leaved plants, such as lilies, shade the water, helping reduce water
                temperature and blocking light that algae needs to grow. Submerged plants compete
                directly with algae for nutrients.
            d) Pumps & Filters: Adds oxygen to the water

13.  Water should be tested with a pond tester before adding plants. Wait two weeks before adding fish.

14.  Water will turn green for 4-6 weeks as plants become established.

15.  Submerged plants - add one bunch for every 2 square feet. Floating plants should cover 60 - 70% of surface.

16.   Tadpoles & snails are scavengers for natural clean-up. Stock scavengers at a ratio of one for every two square feet. Both will live year long as long as the pond does not freeze solid.

17.    Black Japanese Snails are the best choice. Other snails will reproduce too quickly and will compete with fish for food. What they don't eat they cover with slime, making it inedible for fish. If snails find their way to your pond, float a piece of lettuce on the surface. When it becomes covered with snails, simply pick up the lettuce leaf & return snails to a nearby creek or stream.

18. Use barley straw to help rid your pond of algae. Rye, wheat, and oat straw can also be used, although they may not be quite as effective. Just drop the straw in a mesh bag (onion bag or laundry bag), and hang it in your pond in an inconspicous spot. Attach to a rock on the surface so it doesn't sink to the bottom. There is a chemical given off by decaying straw that, while it does not kill algae, it does prevent new algae from growing, and your existing algae will eventually die off. Placing the mesh bag where water movement is greatest will be most effective. Replace straw once every 6 months or so. If straw starts to smell, you've used too much and it isn't working.

19. When bringing home plants for your pond home from the wild, be sure to rinse them off thouroughly to rinse off any parasites, snail eggs, or fish eggs. A pottasium permanganate treatment will remove parasites and eggs.

20. If your PH level is too high, add 1 teaspoon of (tarragon) vinegar per 100 gallons of water. Wait twenty minutes, retest water, and add more vinegar as needed. If your PH level is too low, add baking soda (added in small doses at a time) to raise the PH level.

21. Adding 1/2 cup of NON-IODIZED salt per 100 gallons of water is good for the fish immune system, and will slightly reduce the effects of slightly high PH levels.

22. Things you can use for bio-filter material: quilt batting, lava rock, blue furnace filters, plastic pot scrubbers, and styrofoam peanuts (make sure these are not the type that dissolve in water!).