APPLIQUE
Set up your cut work CSD to work like applique. Let the POEM stitch out the first "placement" stitching. Then remove the hoop from the machine and cut out those areas that should be removed (don't remove the fabric from the hoop). Replace all back in the machine and let the machine proceed to do all stitching. This should cover the cut work areas thoroughly, eliminating those little fuzzies. I would put sticky backing on, after I had done my cutting. Stick it on good so that your cut areas do not get "sucked" into anywhere that they don't belong.
Kathy Nehmer
Kathy
I would work with 2-4 layers of solvy under the fabric, and when you cut away, just cut away the fabric, and leave the Solvy behind to stitch
through.
Sue Hager
I would like to pass on a couple of things that I learned about applique
using that feature on the New Home machine. I find that if I back the
Applique fabric with a light weight interfacing before embroidering the
shape it is easier to handle. I also would straight stitch around the shape twice to give me a firmer edge. I cut it out right next to the stitching. Since there is no paper to tear away this works for me. I then stitched the shape on the base fabric to give me an outline and used a few dabs from a glue stick to place the applique. Since the NH would stitch around with a zigzag stitch before it started the satin stitch if something wasn't exactly lined up you would catch it during the zigzag and back up if you needed to. One other thing the NH would do is the shape was not easy to tell which edge went where as with a rose it would stitch a little X while straight stitching the applique piece and the outline on the base so that you would have a reference point.
Lois
When using the POEM for applique, I have discovered a different technique than is suggested in the manual. For the first stitching, hoop only the fabric to be used as the applique with an applique backing like "Wonder Under" fused to the back side. This will become the stabilizer for the first stitching lines. After stitched, take completely out of the hoop and trim along the stitching lines. Now peel off the paper backing. Hoop the fabric that will be used for the base and a stabilizer (tear away) and stitch the second row of stitches.
This now gives you an outline to "carefully fuse the cutout applique to". DO NOT REMOVE THE FABRIC FROM THE HOOP. Reinsert the hoop and finish the design. I like this method because it is easier to trim the applique fabric at this stage, instead of trimming it while still hoop ed. If you need more of the same designs, you can use the cutout portion as a pattern and copy them on the already fused fabric.
Judy
I loved Judy's hint on pre-stitching the outline onto your
colored (fusible on back) fabric. Here are additional tips that I
discovered while trying this technique out.
1. Make sure you trim the applique exactly on the stitching line, in
order to peel off the backing easier.
2. You will be ironing the applique while it is in the hoop. So use the
TIP of your iron, and be VERY careful not to melt your hoop. I layed
some of the protective heat paper from the fusible web along my hoop to
protect it somewhat.
3. Or you can stitch the first placement design onto non-fused applique
fabric, then cut it out, then use glue stick to place it on the base
design.
Hope these sewing tips will help you out!
Sheree in M!ch!gan
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