STABILIZING

Donna Lee, this reminds me of the trouble I just had stitching on my daughter's knit top. It was bunching up and just plain not working, so I took freezer paper and ironed it to the back side and used nothing on top. Viola! she has her top. Take care, Jen


If my needle is dull, the freezer paper doesn't work too well. Also, the freezer paper doesn't work at all if I use a size 11 needle. I prefer to use larger needles. unknown


I bought the great big roll (of sticky paper)from Madeira and shall never need more for my entire life--but I do swear by the stuff. For the body of the shirt, I simple place the hoop directly on the sticky paper and stick the shirt to that. It works great. For the turtleneck, if the fabric is doubled, I stick the turtle to the paper with my hoop screw turned to as loose as it can get. Then I place the top hoop on just to hold the doubled fabric together. Because of the loose setting, it does not stretch the fabric. unknown


I embroidery on T shirts all the time, I have found the best results for me is a waffle CUT away. The tear away looks ok for a short time but looses its shape...The cut away will retain the design after many washings, if it is a waffle Knit I use a piece of solvy on the top. If you are doing the fold down turtlenecks you can turn the design upside down and the cut away works great!I If you don't have a good stabilizer to sew on under your work, you can make some nasty holes in the knit. Look at the better shirts in the retail stores, they us CUT AWAY. Don't over stretch your knits when hooping. It will pucker your designs. Hope this helps! Cassie


I have had good results with using a fusible tricot knit interfacing, just to stabilize the fabric, and an additional tear away backing hooped with the fabric. Judy


I have used an inexpensive contact paper with knit t shirts on my NH. It works very well. You have to put something soft under it so the contact won't scratch the body. A friend used the sticky paper and we compared, not much difference that we could tell. It's worth a try. I got mine a local Dollar Store for $1. per roll It was the clear. Pat in AL


I use the sticky backing for velveteen and corduroy and it does not change need for solvy on top, just eliminates hoop rings on fabric when done. Cut a piece of backing and hoop it without fabric. Use blade of scissor or whatever works to score the waxy coated paper so you can pull it off exposing the sticky - I use tweezers to get first grab of the waxy and just pull gently after that til it's off where I want it. Press fabric onto sticky, tape or moisten corners of a piece of solvy over that get into the EU very carefully. Oh yes, prepare to babysit the project for entire stitch out to help hold all the layers together with your hands! It does work well, just a nuisance. Mary


I would use Solvy on top--or actually, I use cheap plastic wrap. Kathy Nehmer


I have used plastic as stabilizer for years on several machines but I only use it on top of fabrics, never underneath. I use it for terry cloth and other nappy fabrics that will be washed because it keeps the nap down, where Solvy washes out and the nap can work through the embroidery stitches after several trips through the laundry. I suppose if it were used underneath and especially with a dull needle it could get pushed into the bobbin case, but I can only speak from experience. I have New Homes, a Pfaff and my HG/EU. I like them all for different reasons, but the EU gives me the most flexibility. I just combined several designs from different sources using the Big Hoop and was successful on the first try. I wish I could rotate and resize the designs with my New Homes. Lois


The best way I have found to anchor my solvy other than hooping it along with the target fabric is to moisten my finger and make 4 dots around the outer edge of the hoop and then press the solvy down. So far it has worked pretty good. Linda


I put Fray Chek on the back side of my projects to keep those threads from unraveling. Hope this helps. Sue Hager


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