Threads

Metallic

I have not used Madiera Metallic, but I have used the Robinson Anton and the Sulky with no problem. In fact with less problem than on my other machines. I did try Sulky " Sliver " one time and had a problem and no time to experiment so I don't know whether it will work or not. However, today as I was embroidering, I got a tangled mess on the under side and discovered that my upper thread had not caught behind the take-up lever on top of the machine. Since the metallic is so light it is easy for it to miss the hook. Could that have been your problem? The way I check it is to thread to the needle and then hold the thread and turn the handwheel and see if the thread is being pulled back by the take-up. Also, on my other machine the metallic thread works best if I use a Metallica needle or Schmetz Metallic needle. While on this subject I have found that if I use the Schmetz blue jean needle in size 10 or 12 for woven fabrics I have less " gagging " by the machine. I haven't tried these needles on knits. Also for those of you looking for Organ needles, Janome (New Home) needles are organ and their top-stitch needles work great for embroidery because of the larger eye. Lois

Yes, I have used rayon in my bobbin. Also, sometimes I use regular sewing cotton or polyester if I need a color that I don't have in rayon. Girls, you're missing the boat if you don't try it. It gives it a whole new dimension. " Try it you'll like it. " Some things I really don't want the high shine, so I use regular sewing thread. It depends on what you intend the item for. Sue Hager

Following the chat about using different threads in the bobbin...and I thought I'd also let you know about my method of winding the cassette bobbins.... I bought the Criswell lace designs and really wanted a matching bottom thread - didn't want white bits in my pretty pink lace! I simply wound some ordinary plastic bobbins with the matching rayon thread and used them in place of the pre-wound ones I normally use. No problems - I didn't have to mess with the tension or anything. Gill (in Gloucestershire, England)

I find that the metallic threads work best on my Perfect Partner on the left spool (furthest from the upward arm) and rayon works best on the right. But ALWAYS, always, always use a thread net or something around the thread to keep it feeding smoothly. Hope this helps. Sue Hager

I use 14 size needles on things like denim or canvas. And 11 on everything else. Ballpoint on knits and sharps on woven. Nope, I haven't needed to use the metallic needles. And I use a LOT of metallic threads. Mostly Madeira, and haven't had trouble with them unraveling when using thread nets. I use the tamers on rayon, but nets on metallics. Sue

Weight of threads used in unknown designs

unknown asks: Forgot to ask one more thing --is there any way to tell what weight thread a downloaded design (or any stock design) is digitized for (if not stated) without stitching out (or " trying " to)? I waste more thread! I always zoom into the satin stitch and measure the distance between 10 stitches. If it measures larger than 3.00mm I use 40 wt. For fill stitch, the process is virtually identical, but you need to measure 20 rows of stitches to get the right value. If the result is less than 4.00mm than you can use 60wt. otherwise 40wt. is recommended. Willy Pichler

Thread shedding

I understand that one of the reasons for thread shedding at the needle is that the needle isn't creating a big enough hole for itself and the thread to go through each stitch, and the thread suffers in the squeeze! Don't know if that's right, but it sounds logical, at least. Gill

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