From: brianpi@tekig6.PEN.TEK.COM (Brian D Pimm)
Date: 11 Dec 91 16:54:12 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Converting Old Aquarium Lights
In article <11DEC199110053734@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov> g5rsn@nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov (Robert S. Nerem (Steve)) writes:
>I have an old (8 years) Oceanic fluorescent aquarium light (55 gal.)
>which I would like to convert to a "quickstart" switch so that I may
>put the light on a timer. I understand that all new lights now have
Steve,
I have done this a number of times. It is quite easy. You need to pick up
a starter and socket. or if you can't get a socket I have removed the can
on the starter and wired it in directly. All you have to do is place the
starter in place of the warmup contacts of the switch. Most of the switches
that I have delt with have had black wires for the line switch and red
wires for the warmup switch. Also to tell for sure the warmup wires will
go directly to the end caps, (one to each). cut the warmup wires and splice
starter in place.
Crude drawing follows
line switch line plug
\ /-----|
__________________________________________o \____________/ |-----
| --\ |-----
| --------- | \-----|
| --------------------------|starter|---------------| |______________
| | --------- | |
| | |-----------| |
| | | |
| | |-----------------------------------------------------| | |
| |---| |---| |
| | light tube | |
|------| |--------|
|-----------------------------------------------------|
Hope this helps
Brian
From: cs4gp6am@maccs.dcss.mcmaster.ca (Heide BT)
Date: Sun, 19 Apr 1992 06:03:30 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Fluorescent Bulbs and some comments ....
In article <1992Apr18.080822.27968@news.cso.uiuc.edu> erno@mrcnext.cso.uiuc.edu writes:
>...
>1. Will a 24" T-12 bulb put out more light compared to a 24" T-8? How does
>the output compare to a 36" T-8?
I'm no expert, but a T-12 would have more surface area than a T-8, which
would imply more phosphore. However, does the phosphore of a T-8 glow more
intensly than a T-12? I have both T-8 and T-12 24" bulbs for my 23 gallon
tank. The T-8's seem to be just as bright as the T-12's, but this is only
by eye. Of course the brightness also depends on the make of the bulb and
the phosphores used in it. My T-8 is an Aqua-Glow, and the T-12 a Grow-Lux.
>2. Is seems like the T-12 and T-8 bulbs use the same size standard end clips,
>right?
In my experience, yes.
>3. It also seems like the T-12 bulbs should use special ballasts, different
>from the T-8s. If I use a standard shoplight which is designed for T-8 bulbs,
>can I expect that I could also use T-12 bulbs with it?
As far as I know, you can use the same ballasts, I do. I also have an 18"
T-8 on my 10 gallon tank. It uses a ballast designed for 20, 15 and 14 Watt
bulbs of the 24" and 18" variety.
>4. If I have a choice, should I get the thicker T-12 bulb instead of the same
>length T-8? Is there much of a price difference?
It's hard to say. I haven't seen the same brand, with the same specs and same
length available in both T-8 and T-12.
Now I would like to make an interesting observation about ballasts and
starters that I have not seen anyone else mention on the net (though I
haven't been here long). When I bought my first tank it was a Hagen with
a flourecent canopy. From the beginning I intended to run it on a timer.
Imagine my anoyance when I discovered it used a manual switch starter
so that it wouldn't turn on when the light timer went on - it required a
human finger each time. It was a 24" single fixture and cost me
$50 Cdn without the bulb. I felt quite ripped off, especially since a
ballast with an automatic starter cost me only $20 at the local hardware
store.
So after purchasing and installing the ballast with the auto starter, I
thought my troubles were over, but they were not. The light would not always
come on right aways, sometimes taking a few hours. I thought this might
be because the Hagen reflector was made of platic, so I added grounded
aluminum foil behind the bulb, but this didn't help. Now I discovered that
it was only the wide spectrum type bulbs (Grow-Lux, AquaGlow etc.) that
were giving me this problem. I regular GE cool white would start each time.
I had the same problem when I built my 18" light for my 10 gallon. I finally
solved the problem by using those small cylindrical capacitance starters
in combination with the ballasts (they make a clicking noise when they
start the bulb). Has anyone else had this problem or experience? Also, I
can buy the starters, but I can't seem to find anybody who sells the
mounting sockets they are designed to plug into.
Brad.
From: scottn@fluffrag.Eng.Sun.COM (Scott Nye)
Date: 30 Jun 1992 21:26:13 GMT
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: GFI no help through ballast
In article <1992Jun29.171750.241@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>I asked on 'sci.electronics', but the best answer was that it was a black
>art and that I should request manufacturer info from Silvania, GE, and/or
>Phillips.
>
This is a good idea. All of these comanies have 1-800 numbers and
have lots of good info for free. Phillips has a $18 lighting handbook
that has tons of useful info in it, as well as lots of free
literature. For information on ballasting lamps, I would try some
of the electronic ballast manufacturers. These include EBT, Magnetek,
Advance, Motorola, Valmont. The new push for the use of electronic
ballasts has caused many of these manufacturers to publish lots
of good info on the operational characteristics of lamps.
>Since I'm installing 24 flourescents this week on my new aquarium racks,
>I was thinking a bit about them.
>
Definitely use electronic ballasts. Motorola Lighting has a good
matrix showing power savings for many permutations or tar/electronic
ballasts. Besides, electronic ballasts aren't really that much more
expensive. I just picked up 2 EBT's for 27.00ea. I chose EBT because
they are the oldest manufacturer, although I think I might have bought
motorola had they been easier to find.
>Can anyone post or send me e-mail about anything they know, or mention
>references I can read to brush up on the topic.
see above ...
>
>What I know is that most flourecents have a heater filament at each
>end, and mercury vapor inside the tube. The heaters warm up
>the mercury vapor so that it is more readily conductive. The thing
>that starts the lamp is a high voltage kick across the two filaments.
>This causes the mercury to conduct and form a plasma that emits UV.
>The ballast and/or starter provide the kick while the inductance
>limits the current flow through the tube. While conducting,
>the UV radiation hits the tube phosphors, is absorbed, and
>re-radiated at other wavelengths.
>
>I'm not very clear on how the various types of power supplies provide
>that initial kick and what happens to the heater current while the
>lamp is on.
A couple of other useful points. The time during which the plasma stays
a plasma in the absence of current flow through it is very important.
At 60hz., the plasma will deionize every cycle. Thus each succeeding
cycle must reionize the plasma, which is what causes flicker. High
frequency electronic ballasts re-energize the plasma before it deionizes,
greatly reducing flicker. The persistence of the phosphor in the tube
is also important here. Because many of the phosphors in flourecent
lamps are short persistence, they are less efficient when excited
by lower frequencies.
As far as the cathode bias (heater current) goes, rapid start lamps
maintain the cathode bias. Modified rapid start lamps reduce the
cathode bias to save power, this also reduces lamp life. Phillips
derates their lamps about 25% when operated in either pre-heat
or modified rapid start configurations.
Scott Nye
scott.nye@sun.com
From: tse@ra.nrl.navy.mil (Anthony Tse)
Date: 1 Jul 92 20:58:27 GMT
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: GFI no help through ballast
In article <1JUL199215475218@venus.lerc.nasa.gov= fssmith@venus.lerc.nasa.gov (Greg Smith) writes:
=I have done that at all lighting stores in my phone book. (Cleveland Ohio)
=
=>I am sure they have them in stock.
=
=They said they didn't. Maybe they didn't know what I was talking about
=I was looking for 40 watt electronic ballasts.
Call the 800 directory and get the number for Advance and Magnetek
(sp?). Call them up and see do they know any dealer around your
area and get a model number while you are at it.
-Anthony
From: pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 16:21:35 GMT
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Light rec. for 55gal
In article <1993Feb16.150136.26972@pool.info.sunyit.edu> johnh@tigger.rl.af.mil (John Hawthorne) writes:
>A word of warning! There was a thread on here a few weeks ago questioning
>the reliability of the cheap "electronic" ballasts. I was skeptical at
>first but am now a believer. These cheap shop lites may be okay for
>generic bulbs, but I've lost 2 48" Vitalites after less that 2 months use.
>Could be coincidence, but with the price of hi tech bulbs I'm taking no
>more chances and have a different electronic ballast on order.
Another data point: I've been using two LOA $8.99 ballasts for a couple of
years now and they continue to work flawlessly. The only complaint I
have is that they are too long for the hood I built and I had to tear
one of them apart and the other sits partially exposed. Not sure whether
any other brands are any shorter.
--
--------pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu----(614) 621-8240----------------
Paul A. Prior Ban anchors, not reef tanks "Not that there is anything
3rd year medical student wrong with that..." SF
The Ohio State U. College of Medicine Tobacco Kills- Please don't smoke!
From: erik@marge.phys.washington.edu (Erik D. Olson)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1993 16:40:45 GMT
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Light rec. for 55gal
In article <1993Feb16.162135.25261@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> pprior@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Paul A Prior) writes:
>Another data point: I've been using two LOA $8.99 ballasts for a couple of
>years now and they continue to work flawlessly. The only complaint I
>have is that they are too long for the hood I built and I had to tear
>one of them apart and the other sits partially exposed. Not sure whether
>any other brands are any shorter.
And another... I've used three LOA shop fixtures. The first had a contact
break on the ballast right after I put it in. The one I replaced it with
has worked fine for 2 years, as has a second unit. They've had
SpectraLites (Vitalite knockoff by Sylvania(?)) and Grolights.
Erik
From: oleg@Veritas.COM (Oleg Kiselev)
Date: 19 Jan 92 04:29:07 GMT
Newsgroups: alt.aquaria,rec.aquaria,sci.aquaria
Subject: Re: (M) Comments on Biotope lighting?
lim@kuhub.cc.ukans.edu writes:
>A local pet shop here is selling a biotope actinic bulb (made by OSRAM)
>for $30.00 (including ballast, reflector, UV shield and power cord)
>Is the price resonable?
Well, if you consider the discount retail parts prices, it's not all that
expensive. A normal 11 Watt 4100K U-bulb with a ballast will cost you some
$15, another $2-3 for the cord and switch, $1 for the mounting hardware,
$3-4 for the reflector -- and you are easily over $20 for a DIY light.
I had a chance to talk to one of Biotope people at a BAKA meeting and it
seems these people are operating somewhere between serious experimental
agro-science and a cottage cultivator black magic. Biotope has an ad in
FAMA and they seem to invite calls and questions. Call them and ask them
for their experimental evidence that what they have is worth buying.
--
"and a letter in your writing doesn't mean you're not dead" -- Pixies.
Oleg Kiselev oleg@veritas.com
VERITAS Software ...!{apple|uunet}!veritas!oleg
From: krogers@javelin.sim.es.com (K. Rogers)
Date: 25 Nov 91 23:00:42 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Aluminum foil reflector idea - any problems?
jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>This idea is really quite poor. After I did it, it looked bad, so I removed
>it. Good thing I did, the varathane underneath was still wet and
>may have caused problems in the long run after I screwed in the
>canopy light holders.
>
>I'm trying to find an art supply place that sells reflective mylar.
>If anyone knows one, please tell me.
I used mirrored acryllic. It was 1/8" thick. For my hood the piece
cost me something like $6 (two years ago.) The price was well worth
it, IMO, as it was very easy to work with and is totally waterproof
and inert. I just glued the pieces into the hood.
--
Keith Rogers
Evans & Sutherland Computer Corp.
krogers@javelin.sim.es.com
From: daveo@omews18.intel.com (David O'Brien)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 91 01:04:32 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Aluminum foil reflector idea - any problems?
In article <1991Nov25.214039.1070@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
>This idea is really quite poor. After I did it, it looked bad, so I removed
>it. Good thing I did, the varathane underneath was still wet and
>may have caused problems in the long run after I screwed in the
>canopy light holders.
>
>I'm trying to find an art supply place that sells reflective mylar.
>If anyone knows one, please tell me.
Go to your local hobby store that sells remote control plane parts.
One of the plastic wing coatings comes in a color called 'chrome.'
It's reflective mylar. The stuff comes with a heat activated glue on
the back side.
I used this stuff to coat the metal reflectors that came with a couple
of shop lights. A hair dryer was enough to glue the stuff to the
already painted surface. The glue also allows you to peel the sheet
back off if you want to. My sytem has been set up for more than a
year this way. Significant increase in light from the white painted
reflector.
--
Dave O'Brien (daveo@ichips.intel.com)
From: richardb@cognos.UUCP (Richard Brosseau)
Date: 26 Nov 91 12:32:21 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: (F) Aluminum foil reflector idea - any problems?
In article <1991Nov25.214039.1070@ultra.com> jimh@ultra.com (Jim Hurley) writes:
+This idea is really quite poor. After I did it, it looked bad, so I removed
+it. Good thing I did, the varathane underneath was still wet and
+may have caused problems in the long run after I screwed in the
+canopy light holders.
+
+I'm trying to find an art supply place that sells reflective mylar.
+If anyone knows one, please tell me.
Hydroponics stores will always have this in stock. Check your yellow
pages.
+--
+Jim Hurley --> jimh@ultra.com ...!ames!ultra!jimh (408) 922-0100
+Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134
From: janco@dbsoftware.com (Jim Ancona)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 1994 13:25:09 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: Reef lighting DIY question
In article schunich@sun1.interlan.com (Geoff Schunicht) writes:
> Does anyone know if the CHEAPER home depot type mercury vapor lamps
> (~$30) can accomodate the same wattage metal halide bulbs. I have been
> attempting to make my own lighting system with two VHO lamps and one or
> two metal halide lamps and the 30+bulb~50 is much cheaper than
> anything else on the market. I may need to modify the lamp some, but that
> should be no problem.
No, cheap MV ballasts can't be used with MH lamps. I researched this a little
a while back and as I recall MH bulbs require a higher starting voltage. I
believe the reverse (MV bulb with MH ballast) will work. This might help to
get some light in a pinch if an MH bulb died (since 175 W MV bulbs are
available for cheap at Home Depot).
--
Jim Ancona
JANCO@dbsoftware.com
Opinions expressed are my own, and not those of D&B Software.
From kkaaz@hpwtwe0.cup.hp.com Mon Oct 10 20:52:02 1994
To: JEFF PFOHL
Subject: Re: non live rock
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Mon, 10 Oct 94 16:44:05 EDT."
<9410102044.AA09001@nucmar.physics.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 94 15:56:06 -0700
From: kkaaz@hpwtwe0.cup.hp.com
Jeff,
You forget, you have someone else paying the electric bill for
your setup. Mine was running 500 KWH/month, just on the 180.
I went to a product called SunPipe, 1-800-844-4786, if you are
interested, a company from IL. It is a 21 inch diameter stovepipe
with a clear dome on top, totally lined in reflective coating.
They also have a 13 inch model.
YThe 13 inch is rated at 1500 watts and the 21 at 3225 watts,
all verified by the local power company.
In Oregon, they have full basements instead of the little
10 by 14 ft here in CA. So I plan to setup a couple of
8 by 3 by 2 high for my breeding program.
Will be off to Cleveland for the marine breeder conference this
coming weekend.
Randy Kaaz, San Jose, CA.
From kkaaz@hpwtwe0.cup.hp.com Mon Oct 10 23:00:15 1994
To: Jeff Pfohl
Subject: Re: non live rock
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Mon, 10 Oct 94 20:49:52 EDT."
<9410110049.AA09621@nucmar.physics.fsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 10 Oct 94 18:40:20 -0700
From: kkaaz@hpwtwe0.cup.hp.com
The 500KWH was without the SunPipe, using 840watts of VHO
bulbs. I needed a chiller which I could not afford to buy
let alone the cost to run a 1/3 ho unit. Which was why I
started looking into a passive lighting unit.
When you set the unit up, you need to allow for latitude,
had mine set at 37.3 degrees. I was very satified, the only
peoblems I had were caused by the way I was required to get
the light into my basement. Required multiple sets of mirrors.
I will keep the one I have and will be buying addition units
for my marine angelfish breeding program. I based the size on
what I am capable of cleaning, which is why the tanks will b
no wider then 3 ft.
There is room for improvement with the passive setup, it does not
has a tracking reflector for sunup to sundown, nor the plus and
minus 20 degrees rotation thru out the year. Looking into finding
a solution and am open to ideas. Will start with a telescope
company, could find nothing with a couple of solar companies
I contacted.
As far as reasonable, I will be building all my own equipment,
there will be no monthly for lighting, and in the basement, I
can keep the tanks at 75 degrees without a chiller.
The only monthly outlay will be basicly water pumps.
If I am successful, I hope to outgrow these tanks.
The other option I am looking at is an underground greenhouse
type of setup.
Of course, all of this hings on my locating a job in Oregon,
for the time being, we will be down one salary.
Randy Kaaz (only slightly obsessed with SW)
From: slackmstr@aol.com (Slackmstr)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [M] Metal Halide Lighting
Date: 12 Oct 1994 23:58:02 -0400
In article , joc102@email.psu.edu (Jack
Chernega) writes:
I made my hood with 2 - 175w 5500k metal halides I ordered from Worm's Way
(812)331-0300 they were 345.07 shipping and all. tell them your are using
them to grow corals and u need the daylight plus kind. Recommended by
director of the new york aquarium. Use a couple of actinics for color and
to get a little 7100k lighting in there for the inverts. The 6500k's are
available but they are pricey and the 5500k's seem to be good enough with
the actinics. Iv'e heard even if u use the 6500k's u need the actinics
anyway.
From: baez@escmail.orl.mmc.com (John Baez)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria
Subject: Re: [Q][R] Lighting
Date: 23 May 1995 17:58:13 GMT
In article <3pqts4$7ro@newsroom.hitc.com>, krobair@gossimer (Kevin Robair) says:
>
>Hi all,
>
>Most info in the lighting faq seems to be several years old. I am about to
>set up a 110 gallon ( 48" x 30"high x 18" ) reef. I am OK with live rock
>sources and a DIY PS, but I am still in a quandary about lighting. My plan
>is to go with MH and actinics, since the tank is 30" tall. I wish I had the
>space for a longer shorter tank, but I do not. Besides, my Tiera Batfish will
>need the space soon. My plan is to use 2 175 watt MH and 2 40 watt actinics.
>I would appreciate comments from anyone who has made a DIY hood with these
>lights in the past year. I want to do things right, but would rather spend
>$600 on live rock than a Hamilton hood.
>--
>Kevin Robair
Kevin:
Your lighting choice is the way to go on your tank. Now lets look at the
cost factors:
1. Assuming a good price on the MH setup, each bulb will run you about
$150 for a total of $300 (including ballasts, fixtures, reflectors)
2. The actinics can run off a tar ballast and you need a good set of
end caps so $35 is about the number here.
3. If you make the stand out of wood the cost can vary greatly.
Assuming white pine the wood costs would be relatively low, say $25.
Add the finish and some mylar to reflect the actinic lights (the MHs
usually come with a reflector) $20.
4. You need 2 5" muffin fans, $20
5. Additional wiring and miscellaneous items, $20.
6. 2 heavy duty timers, $25
This comes to about $445 in required materials. Assuming you are still
with me here is my design for such a hood:
------ 1" vents along each side
______V
| / \ |
5" |( ++ )| <------- MH enclosure w/fan on each end
/ \ / \
5" /O O\ <------- openning door with actinic bulb on
/ \ each side
| |
6" | |
|==============|
Sorried about the poor man's diagram. The hood fits over the tank and
can be openned on each side to service the tank or replace the bulbs.
The fans push air into the hood and do a great job of keeping it cool.
I have a 1" slit on both sides at the top of the MH compartment.The hot
air is expelled through these as the muffins push cool air in. These
are critical to keeping things cool.
The hood rests on the tank with the help of a 1x2" wood strip on the
inside around the entire hood. The strip is place as follows:
| |
_| |
| | |
| | |
___________-| |
H| |
tank H| |
H|_|
|
The 'H's represent the tank trim. I prefer to cover it completely with
the hood so I place the 1x2 high enough to accompish that.
Each of the swinign doors is covered with chrome colored mylar on the
inside to reflect the actinic light into the tank.
The MH bulbs are about 12" from the water surface. The actinics are about
6" from the water surface.
Finally, the hood is stained on the outside and finished inside and out
with polyurethane.
That's it! Building your own stuff has the added advantage that you can
blend it in to your decor. I built a matching stand and finished them
to match the surrounding maple wood furnishings.
All things considered the cost between custom made hoods and stands
and commercially available units is similar. The advantage of custom is
that it fits your need perfectly.
Hope this helps,
John
From: arthur@baltimore.net (Art Sederquist)
Newsgroups: rec.aquaria.marine.reefs
Subject: Re: Reef Temp limit?
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 1996 02:55:29 GMT
>> Does anybody have any ideas about how to
>> get the temp down, short of laying out the $$$ for a chiller.
I have an inexpensive substitute for a chiller. I went to the
hardware store to the 'Duct Section' and purchased a clothes dryer
exhaust hose (approx. 4-5" dia x 8') and a galvanized steel plate with
a semi-conical extension also approx. 3-1/2" - 4" dia. I replaced my
heat register on the wall with the steel plate and attached the hose
to it, gluing with a hot glue gun. The 8 foot hose stretches to my
aquarium hood and blows cool air over the surface of the water at the
temp specified by my thermostat.
Sure, it looks rather industrial, but with metal halide lights, it
looks right in place.
Cost $15. Temp: perfect. In fact, I had to put my heater back into
the tank to keep the temp in check. This really works well and
probably greatly aids in gas exchange.
Art Sederquist
arthur@baltimore.net
