Rearing the Fry
 

 Suggested Equipment
 

Microworm Culture for feeding
Baby Brine Shrimp for feeding
Ammonia Test Kit to keep levels in check
Ph Test Kit to continue level checks
Turkey Baster to continue tank cleanings
Larger “Grow Out” Tank for moving the fry into


Bear in mind that this document takes you from the time that Dad leaves the tank and the fry are free swimming, horizontal little guys. Roughly day 3...

It is recommended that you leave the fry in the former spawning tank until growth dictates the need for more room. Besides, since you were in the habit of keeping the water clean, they should be fine for a while providing you were careful not to overfeed the youngsters. You will want to start testing for ammonia at this point since that is the condition vying for “number one killer” of fry (shared only by “starvation”), also still keep the Ph levels for 6-7. Do not employ any water changes until you see ventral fins. Not heeding this advice may lead to fish who never grow them! Even then, when you do change their water, make sure it is aged at least 24 hours, is the same temperature and is dripped into the tank…not poured.

Start feeding when the yolk sacs empty at about 2-3 days of age. Do not even think, much less attempt, to spawn your pair before you have started a microworm culture with baby brine shrimp eggs on hand, too. Not listening to this advice will lead to loss by starvation, no ifs, ands, or buts!!! Once the fry's mouths are large enough, you may start them on baby brine shrimp…do not rush this or else you will lose fry to choking and raise your levels due to the dead shrimp floating about. One final note on BBS, there is a connection suggested between high usage of this and swim bladder disorder. You may wish to use your good judgment on this theory. You are eventually toward the goal of giving hamburger fragments, bloodworms, and pellets at the time of physical maturity. Again, use your good judgment. And, as always, take out any uneaten food to avoid high ammonia levels.

Once ventral fins are present, discontinue the sponge filter and proceed with starting regular water changes no less than one week apart. Perform no more than 10% at a time and use the tiniest siphon (perhaps the turkey baster again) to accomplish this. Be certain to put the dirty water into a well-lit, dark walled container in case any fry were accidentally removed in the process. It happens! Of course, replace any errant fry before dumping the dirty water out!

When more swimming room is needed, transfer the youngsters over to a “grow out” tank. Depending on the number of fry that survived, it should be anywhere from 10-30 gallons in size. All fry may continue living together until male aggression is detected. This usually occurs at around 2-3 months which is also the time when the genders can now be determined. Place males into their own jars and allow the jars to float in a tank in order to maintain the appropriate temperature. Once the males are jarred, pay special attention to sucking out waste on a daily basis and do water changes every other day. Girls, of course, can remain in a community tank from here on out. If you do find an overly aggressive girl, you may wish to jar her for the time being. If it is going to occur, it is usually due to youth and will pass with age.

At this point, the Bettas are ready to go to new homes. And, as with their parents, spawning cannot occur until they are sexually mature.

One final note, this one on genetics: if you want to strengthen the colors or pattern of either mother or father, freely mate that parent back to it’s best progeny. This practice may continue up to 10 generations when new blood is needed to prevent failure of the line. Unlike other species of fish or animals, this is not only acceptable, but also preferred.