The earliest loom known is the Warp Weighted Loom. It was used all over the world from the time of the earliest recorded history. It was pictured frequently on Greek pottery and is currently still in use in a few homes in Scandinavia today. The weights suspended at the bottom of the warp threads maintain the tension necessary for an even weave.
The multi-harness loom was invented around the first millennium and it's use spread quickly throughout the world. This loom has remained relatively unchanged over the centuries. In the Middle Ages this loom would have been made of wood and been larger than it's smaller counterparts of today. Medieval looms were have taken up most of a wall in a home or workshop, if not most of the space in the room itself. The various harnesses would have been raised and lowered by treadling foot pedals on the floor that were connected to the harnesses through pulleys. In the earliest of this type of loom, the harnesses may have even been raised and lowered by a helper, sitting up on top of the loom in some parts of the world.
Rigid Heddle Weaving is a process where a paddle or wooden frame is used to thread specific warp threads through so that certain threads can be raised or lowered at a time. More than one heddle may be used to allow for multiple harness weaving. Unlike the multiple harness loom, there are no treadles or levers, each harness must be raised by hand. This process may be used for creating wide fabrics or narrow bands.
Tapestry Weaving consists of a variety of weaving techniques used to create pictures or designs on fabric. Usually a simple frame loom is used to hold the warp threads under tension while the weaving is taking place. Many colors are used to create the elaborate patterns. Woven tapestries were used for wall hangings, rugs and decorative bands among other items. Tablet Weaving or card weaving was commonly found from the Bronze Age to the 16th century. Tablets were used to make decorative bands of cloth and to form selvages at the edges of loom woven cloth. Tablets were often made of leather, bone or wood and had from 2 to 8 holes. Patterns are made by turning the cards forward and back in various increments with different colored threads threaded through the holes in the tablets. Rather than using a loom, this method of weaving was often done by tying one end of the warp to a stationary object and the other to the weaver's belt or waist. Tablet woven bands were used for trim, belts and straps among other useful purposes. Inkle Weaving is a centuries old method of producing narrow bands of cloth for use as belts, bridles, trim and the like. During the Middle Ages, inkle bands were made using the back strap weaving method in which one end of the warp was tied around a stationary object and the other end around a belt or the weaver's waist. The pattern was made by using a paddle with holes in it, also known as a rigid heddle. The bands themselves created by this method were called "Inkle" and that was the name adopted for the entire method of production. Today, most inkle weaving is done on an American Inkle Loom which was invented in the 1800's. This loom eliminates the need for the paddle or rigid heddle.
Sprang is a technique used to make very stretchy or elastic fabric. It involves twisting the various threads to form a net-like pattern.
Finger Weaving was undoubtably the earliest weaving technique. Finger weaving is a process where individual warp threads are manipulated to form patterns. This technique can be used for something as small as a braid or a band or as large as a piece of fabric.
Brocade or Pick-Up Weaving. Brocade was often woven with gold, silver or bronze threads. This type of weaving was often found on church vestments and on other garments where intricate trim was necessary. Brocade weaving can be done with cards or by any two-harness weaving method. Brocade weaving was done throughout the Middle Ages but became increasingly more complex during the later portions of the period. Stick Weaving is a simple technique usually associated with Native Americans but they were not the only people to use this process. Hollow sticks or needles were used to hold the warp threads while the weft thread was woven, in, out and around each needle or stick. this process can be used to create wide fabrics or narrow bands. It is most commonly used for narrow bands.
Most of the basic weaving structures known today originated during or before the Middle Ages. The most common weave structures found during the Medieval Period were tabby and a variety of twills. All proper tartans are woven in 2/2 twill.
For More Information:
Building and Using a Warp Weighted Loom
How to Read a Weaving Draft and How to Read a Tartan Pattern
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