(picture from Staniland, p 34)
1280 - Seal Bag
This bag was attached to a charter of Edward I dated at Westminster, 26, November 1280 and is believed to be of the same date. It is an example of intarsia or what we would call today reverse applique. The shield shape is cut in the ground fabric and the red fabric is then laid behind the ground fabric and the background fabric is then sewn to the inlaid fabric. Literally, it is the reverse of what we normally think of as applique. Instead of laying the fabric on top and sewing it to the ground, the ground is sewn to the inlaid fabric.
Cording is then couched in the seam. The leopards were appliqued on top and the details were added later in split stitch.
source: Medieval Craftsmen Embroiderers by Kay Staniland p 34
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