Dresses:
Skirts widened from the 1850’s into the 1860’s, some of which could measure 12 to 15 feet in circumference. Toward the end of the War, the skirts took on a more elliptical shape, with more fullness falling toward the back. This would continue, and later lead into the bustle. Fine dresses would have skirts embellished with ribbon, braid or ruching. Some had flounces sewn onto an underskirt, or were layered to form a flounce. Overskirts could be drawn up to reveal the underskirt or even a fancy petticoat. Skirts were often lined. The hem was usually several inches deep, often of a different fabric, probably scraps from previous sewing projects. The hem edge finish would often include horsehair braid which helped prevent wear and fraying.
The Day Dress was either a one or two-piece skirt and bodice. The convenience of a two-piece dress was the ability to change the bodice for afternoon or eveningwear. The Day Dress could be simple or fancy depending on the wearer’s taste and status. The sleeves were long or, if of the ‘pagoda’ shape, worn with undersleeves. There was no scoop to the neckline at all. The waistline of the garments usually fell a few inches above the normal waistline.
The Princess Dress was a skirt and bodice cut as one with no waist seam. It was shaped to fit at the waist through the cut of gored sections. This style is a little less common.
The Evening Dress differed from the Day Dress by the cut of the neck. These gowns were often worn off the shoulder, straight across or with a dip at the center. The neckline could be decorated with wide, ruffled lace, flowers, or ribbons. The sleeves were short. The skirt would be decorated in the same style as the bodice with single or multiple layers and flouncing.
Bodice and Waist:
The general shape of the bodice was often achieved through curved seams in back and darts in the front. The armhole scythe was dropped below the natural shoulder line. The necklines were high without collars and finished with bias piping. Wool or silk bodices were often lined with cotton. Separate washable collars and cuffs were worn. Daytime bodices ended at the waistline and finished up the front with hooks and eyes. Others were finished to look like jackets with Basques flaring out below the waist.
Basques are extensions sewn onto the bodice to drape about six inches below the waistline. The hem edge of the Basque would fall either even all the way around at the bottom, or it was short in the front and long in the back.
What we call a blouse would have been considered as part of the underclothes. It would not be worn without a jacket, bodice or waist. Some buttoned in the back, where a smooth front was desired for wearing with, perhaps a Zouave jacket, while others buttoned down the front. Blouses worn without a jacket would be of the same fabric as the skirt, lined and worn much the same as a bodice. The lining would often be fitted, with the blouse fabric itself taking the looser shape. The blouse would be pulled into gathered clumps: two in the front and two in the back (where we would normally put the darts), keeping the side-waist smooth. Thus, the blouse becomes fitted. A blouse worn this way would also be put onto a band with hooks and eyes connecting it to the skirt. The well-known Garabaldi blouse was originally part of a red and black ensemble inspired by the Italian soldiers who fought under General Giuseppe Garibaldi. This specific blouse has the buttons reversed to emulate the buttoning of a man’s shirt.
Waists were small garments that resemble what we would call a vest. They often had a scooped neck, were sleeveless, and only extended to the natural waistline. Others, like the Medici, were like a stylish, wide belt worn around the waist, often wider in front.
Sleeves were open at the end and worn with removable lace or muslin undersleeves. The most common types of sleeves were the bell-shaped sleeve, the pagoda-shaped sleeve, the double-ruffle sleeve and the closed sleeve.
The bell-shaped sleeve was narrow at the shoulder and gradually widened, ending between the elbow and the wrist.
The pagoda-shaped sleeve was narrow at the shoulder and expanded abruptly to a wide mouth at the end, sometimes being short in the front and long in the back.
The closed sleeve was either pleated into the armhole with released fullness into the wristband or it had a close fit to the wrist.
Other sleeves were like a man’s coat sleeve. It had the inner seam under the arm and outer seam down the back of the arm with no gathers at the arm and relatively fitted for the length of the arm.
Underpinnings:
Undergarments consisted of drawers, petticoat, chemise, corset, corset cover, hoop and perhaps another petticoat. In the summer these garments would be of a lightweight, cotton fabric. In the winter, flannel and wool would be worn for warmth.
Drawers came to just below the knee with the edges trimmed with lace, embroidery or tucking. The drawers were completely open from just above the knee.
Petticoats could be plain, ruffled, tucked or corded. They were worn under the chemise and hoop and fell anywhere from the knees to the ankles.
The chemise was knee-length, full and without much decoration.
The corset was boned or corded with a laced closing in the back and hook and eye closure in the front. Corsets were short and not too tight over the hips.
A corset cover was worn between the corset and the bodice. This was a lightweight garment, sometimes referred to as the petticoat body. This is usually sleeveless, but sometimes had short sleeves.
Hoops were a series of whalebone or steel that were sewn into a fabric petticoat or skirt. When the boning was sewn into tapes, it was often called a cage or cage crinoline.
Outdoor Wear:
Outdoor garments consisted of fitted coats, such as the paletote, or, in varying lengths, shawls, cloaks and lose capes without sleeves.
Hairstyles and Headwear:
Ladies wore their hair parted in the center. It was drawn back over the ears (which were considered unattractive) into a bun at the back of the neck (which was considered vulgar). Pads were sometimes placed under the hair at the side to help give it a wider appearance. For evening, curls could be arranged at the back of the neck. Hairpieces were popular to supplement the natural hair as needed. There were no bangs. This is not a hard and fast rule, however. There have been pictures of women with short hair, and older women, perhaps clinging to a hairstyle from their youth, have been pictured with bangs and ringlettes. Study pictures of the time.
Day caps would be worn, mostly by older or married women, during the day, usually in their homes. These were small and made of muslin with long lappets or ribbons.
Nets were worn, but usually only with a hat. This allowed the hair to drape, in the net, and cover the back of the neck. Hats were more fashionable and were often considered part of the complete ensemble. Small hats included those with low, flat crowns and wide, flexible brims, Bergere straw hats, sailor hats and pork-pie hats with low, round crowns and small brims turned up at one side were also worn. For evening wear, beaded hairnets, lace kerchiefs and hair ornaments made of flowers, fruit or jeweled ornaments were worn.
Bonnets were more popular for everyday wear. They had a wide, open brim, and a skirt along the back edge (again to cover the neck). They would be lined with a gathered fabric and decorated under the brim with flowers, ribbon and/or lace. Ribbons from the corners tie under the chin.
Shoes & Accessories:
A lady always wore her gloves when she went out. They were short and fitted for daytime. Longer gloves would be worn for evening. Fingerless mitts, often made of lace, were also worn for day or eveningwear.
Stockings were made of cotton or silk. Stockings were usually solid in color, but striped stockings were very popular.
Shoes for daytime had square toes and low heels. Cut above the ankle, they either laced up the front or had an elastic gusset on the front or side. Evening shoes were made of white kid or satin and often colored to match the gown.
Hand-carried accessories included handkerchiefs, folding fans of varying sizes, and small muffs in the winter. Parasols were small, dome-shaped and often made of silk with the inside lined. Carriage parasols could have a folding handle.
Jewelry consisted of bracelets, earrings, broaches and necklaces. Some of the more fashionable materials included coral, cameo, colored glass and jet.
