THE PASTA STATION; IN THE KITCHEN

By BILL BUFORD

 

The first time I ate a homemade soft, filled pasta in Italy, I felt that my life, in some small but enduring way, would never be the same: this was what I wanted to learn how to make. My discovery occurred three years ago, in the village of Zibello, in the Po River Valley, about twenty miles from the city of Parma--a livestock heartland of Italy. (All day, and everywhere, there was a pervasive porcine smell and invisible particles of something I didn't really want to think about clinging to my hair and clothes.) The pasta was prepared by Miriam Leonardi, the fifth woman, in successive generations, to be running the kitchen of the Trattoria la Buca. The place had been recommended to me by a friend, who mentioned several dishes in addition to the pasta: eel, frogs' legs, tripe, and, most notably, culatello, a preparation of pork that is a specialty of the village. Culatello--the word translates loosely as a lovely little "buttness"; culo means "ass"--is made from the hindquarters of a pig, boned, stuffed into a bladder, cured, and then hung for up to two years in the famously damp local cellars. The method is deemed "unmodern" by the United States Department of Agriculture, and culatello is therefore unavailable in America. Miriam, as she insisted upon being addressed, ran her trattoria in the Italian style of you-don't-cut-an-onion-until-the-dish-has-been-ordered, and, after each course, she waddled out and asked me what I wanted next. She had just turned sixty-two. She wore a tight-fitting white chef's cap--more scarf than hat--and had dark eyebrows and a big, hooked, masculine nose. She never smiled. She was a little over five feet tall, with a wide girth, and, moving slowly, had an overwhelming sense of ease and confidence; she has, after all, been making this walk from her kitchen to her tables and back to the kitchen for forty-five years. I had a plate of culatello--served with shavings of butter on top. It was a deep red-brown, with a light, soft fluffiness--no obvious fat, although obviously fatty--and a piggy intensity I'd never tasted before. (The friend who recommended Miriam's to me now has such a craving for her culatello that he regularly imports it, illegally.) To illustrate the handmade-how of it all, Miriam then showed me her operation, a cantina, just behind the kitchen, where I counted the culatelli, a hundred rows of ten, hanging from the rafters, and being refrigerated by nothing more than the breezes off the Po. I breathed in deeply, wanting to enjoy the romance of what Miriam referred to as the profumo profondo della mia carne, the perfume of her meat, and concluded, after identifying the dank, humid smell of aging animal and the ammonia sharpness of the mold clinging to a thousand ancient pig bladders, that the perfume was probably an acquired taste. I mentioned that I was trying to cure meats myself, under the instruction of Mario Batali, who runs Babbo, the Italian restaurant in New York, where, as it happened, Miriam's daughter had eaten on a recent trip to America. (The daughter, who will be the sixth woman to run the trattoria, objected only to the tripe: not enough cheese, not enough butter.) For the rest of the afternoon, Miriam kept referring to Mario, "the famous New York chef," and cackling. "He probably uses a refrigerator because he's so smart," she said, and laughed uproariously. "What I prepare in my kitchen," she said, "is what my grandmother taught me. She cooked what her grandmother taught her. And she cooked what her grandmother taught her. You think I'm interested in a famous New York chef?" She said "New York" as though it were a bad taste in the mouth.

I ate two pastas that day. The more memorable was giant pillowy ravioli, distinguished by their thin, floppy lightness. They had been dressed with butter and honey, and filled with pumpkin, so that you experienced an unexpected taste explosion when you bit into one. The pumpkin, roasted and mixed with parmigiano cheese, was like a mouthful of autumn: the equivalent of waking up and finding that the leaves on the trees outside your window had changed color. The dish was called tortelli di zucca. (Zucca means "pumpkin.") In English, you see the word "ravioli" more than you see "tortelli"; in Italy, the two words have been used interchangeably for centuries, although technically ravioli are the filling and tortelli the pasta casing. (It's still possible to get ravioli without a pasta; they are called ravioli nudi--naked ravioli--and look like little balls of filling, as though the chef had run out of flour that day.) A torta is one of the oldest food preparations in Italy; it describes a stuffed noodle, a container of dough with a filling inside. Tortelli are small versions of a torta. Tortellini are even smaller ones. (According to one of the many stories of the pasta's origins, it was folded up by a Bolognese baker to look like the navel of a married woman he was having an affair with, shaped with such verisimilitude that the likeness was identified by the unhappy husband.) Recipes for making a torta, and the many variations on a torta theme, are among the earliest published in Italy, and include those of a fifteenth-century chef known as Maestro Martino.

The Maestro's account is at the heart of Europe's first international cookbook best-seller, "De Honesta Voluptate et Valetudine" ("On Right Pleasure and Good Health"). The book was written, in Latin, around 1465, not by the Maestro himself but by a Lombard known as Platina, who was not a cook but a scholar, a humanist (his other works include a biography of the Popes, a treatise on war and a treatise on peace, and one on love and one against it), and an eater. In 1463, a year after he arrived in Rome, at the age of forty-one, he was invited by Cardinal Ludovico Trevisan, a legendary glutton and gourmand, to escape a hot summer in the city and come to the Cardinal's hilltop retreat in Albano, southeast of Rome. Maestro Martino was the Cardinal's cook.

The Maestro was also a native of Lombardy (he was born near Lake Como), and, like Platina, had only just arrived in Rome (from Milan, where he had worked for the nobles of the city), and the two men, probably about the same age, established an immediate rapport. For Platina, the Maestro's preparations were a revelation, and he spent much of the summer at the Maestro's side, learning everything he could of this new discipline. The book that he then wrote is really two books. One is a humanist treatise on the nature of nutrition and living well, borrowing heavily from classical authorities and written, in the style of Pliny's Natural History, as a succession of numbered paragraphs (on sleep or salt or figs), each paragraph ending with a salutary observation: that five almonds eaten before drinking wine protect you from getting drunk; that leeks are good for the bowels but too many produce bad dreams; that an occasional portion of porcupine meat reduces bed-wetting; or that "the testicles of younger animals are considered better than those of old animals," except in the case of roosters, whose testicles are good, regardless of the age of the bird, especially if served alongside calves' feet and spices, in the Roman style.

Halfway through, the style changes. "O immortal gods," Platina suddenly declares, in the middle of describing how to make a blancmange. "What a cook you bestowed in my friend Martino of Como!" He then goes on to extoll Maestro Martino's eloquence on the subject of cooking, and to insist that, in the Maestro, we are witnessing a representative of the future: an advocate of the "modern cooking school," where food is subjected to "the keenest of discussions" and its preparation treated with profound seriousness. The rest of the book is given over to the Maestro's recipes, told, noticeably, in a different voice--the Maestro's, I suspect. In hanging around a chef's kitchen just long enough to steal his recipes, Platina is also illustrating an early example of a modern practice (recipe theft), and when, four hundred and sixty-four years later, a manuscript, written in Italian, of the Maestro's recipes was discovered in a bookshop by an American food writer (an English translation will appear next year), it became obvious just how extensively Platina had plagiarized the Maestro, deviating from his recipes only in error (leaving out an essential ingredient, say) or to add one of his Pliny-like medical observations, as in his addendum to a recipe for boiled cannabis meatballs (offa cannabina), a dish "to be fled from, for it nourishes badly, arouses squeamishness, generates pain in the stomach and intestines, and dulls the eyes." There are a few other cannabis recipes, too, evoking fifteenth-century stoners loitering in the Vatican Library.

The Maestro was a gifted chef, with considerable flair. When he prepares blancmange, for instance (a sweet, meaty white sauce made from minced capon breast and almond milk), he suggests dividing the sauce in two and adding egg yolk and saffron to one part, so you can then serve the two sauces together, a swirl of white and bright yellow. For more color, you might sprinkle red pomegranate seeds on top. On occasion, the Maestro's flashiness is too much for Platina. He dismisses the Maestro's eggs roasted on a spit, for instance, as a "stupid concoction, one of the absurdities and games of cooks." (The Maestro delicately pokes a needle through the shell of a raw egg and suspends it over the fire, turning it gently, until the egg is ready to eat.) There is also the Maestro's use of meat to fill his torte, which was controversial, French, and inexcusably pretentious: typical, Platina says, of "this pampered" age of ours.

For Platina, there was already an established way of doing things. Your torte and your tortelli were filled not with meat but with vegetables bound by fat or butter, eggs, and cheese. And, to be fair to the Maestro, most of his recipes are the established ones--established, that is, in 1465--and include many vegetable-filled torte and tortelli. The Maestro's torta di zucca, for instance, calls for grating the pumpkin, boiling it in milk, and then mixing it with parmigiano, plus a little ginger, cinnamon, and saffron--the familiar Christmassy spices of the Renaissance. Traditional then, and traditional still: this (minus the Renaissance flavorings) is almost the same filling that was served to me by Miriam at Trattoria la Buca in her tortelli di zucca. In fact, the impression you draw from the Maestro's recipes--and the almost eerie delight you get from reading them today--is not only of difference (exotic spices; fascination with sugar; the use of a pot suspended over a fire, because there was no oven) but of continuity: you picture the Maestro's hands preparing food (kneading the pasta dough, letting it rest, making a broth with bones from the capon, cooking the pasta in it, removing it to another pan, dressing it with melted butter and cheese) according to a set of rules that had already been highly codified, for who knows how long. Before Platina, no one had been there to write them down.

My lunch at La Buca was, in this respect, representative: versions of every dish I ate there can be found in Platina's book. The tripe: from the Maestro, I learned that the trick is to cook it twice (Miriam's trick as well), not to use salt during the first cooking (which makes it tough), and to add a pork bone ("It will be tastier"); then to remove the tripe from the pan, cut it into pieces, add mint, sage, and salt, cook it again (this makes it tender), and serve it with cheese on top. I ate eel. (I returned to La Buca in the evening, and there were people who had driven miles for the eel.) For the Maestro, there were two preparations: on a spit (skinned, gutted, cut into large pieces skewered with a leaf of sage between them); and braised (which was Miriam's preparation, too). The frogs' legs (rolled in grain, then fried in olive oil) were cooked, more or less, the same way by both the Maestro and Miriam (she used bread crumbs instead), but the Maestro's more colorful presentation, with a salsa verde (salsa viridi) and fennel pollen (feniculi floribus)--yellow-green fennel pollen on the bright-green sauce--was distinguished by what I now recognize to be his greater visual confidence.

"I am not creative," Miriam said at one point. "That's not what I do. What I do is what has been handed down to me. For ten generations--and maybe longer, I can't tell, there are no records--we've been cooking for people who weren't hungry." Her ancestors, she believes, learned the traditions of food preparation in the kitchens of the local nobles, in the heart of the Po Valley. The Maestro's first kitchens--those of the nobles of Milan--were not far away on the culinary map.

When I returned to New York, I had this idea that I needed to learn pasta--I didn't understand how something so simple (flour, water, sometimes an egg, a pot of boiling water) could be so different in different hands. And by pasta I meant the soft, handmade kind, like Miriam's. Dried pasta now seemed to me an industrial food, made by a machine--not the real thing.

I approached Mario Batali, the Babbo chef, the star of the Food Network's "Molto Mario," and the genius behind some of the best pasta in New York (after all, even Miriam's daughter had found it edible).

"Mario," I said, "I want to work the pasta station at Babbo."

"You can't do it," he said. "Look at you. You physically can't do it. You're in your forties. You're too old. You have to be in your twenties. It's too fast--you no longer have the mind for it." (And this same mind, thus warned, sank momentarily into a Shakespearean despair, recognizing the limits of mortality and despondently surveying the many things in life that were now, owing to age, definitively beyond its capacities, like higher mathematics or the infinitesimal subtleties of molecular biology, until I stopped myself. The issue was boiling a piece of food in hot water--how difficult was that going to be?) And Mario relented. (Which wasn't the same as his agreeing: his last words were "O.K. I warned you"--not exactly an enthusiastic endorsement.)

At Babbo, a dish of fresh pasta was conceived in two stages: the pasta itself was made during the day, and then the preparation (the cooking and the saucing) was done, to order, in the evening. To make the pasta, two machines were used: one, which mixed large quantities of flour and eggs, made the dough, and the other rolled it out into long sheets. The pasta was then cut up or filled, depending on what you were making, and divided into serving-size portions, and each portion was put into a plastic bag and frozen. (In my head, I imagined Miriam's voice: "Mario Batali is so clever he even owns a freezer!")

To start, Mario thought it might be a good idea if I tried my hand at Stage One--making some pasta--and teamed me with Alejandro, who was then the daytime pasta guy. Our first task was making many hundreds of orecchiette. "Orecchiette" is a diminutive of orecchio, which means "ear," and it is regarded as one of the easiest pastas to make. The dough consists of flour and water (the flour is semolina, a cruder flour than the all-purpose stuff found in an American kitchen), and you roll it out by hand until it looks like a white tube. You then chop the tube into bite-size segments and crush each segment on a ridged piece of wood with your thumb, and, like a child's magic trick, the pasta changes shape under the pressure: when you remove it, it has ridges underneath and, on top, it's shaped like an ear (unless it was one that I had to peel off my thumb that first day, in which case the ridges looked like a tic-tac-toe board, because I invariably had to do the thing twice, and wasn't able to line it up correctly the second time, and the ear was all large and distorted, a floppy flap of dough, more like a cartoon elephant's ear than a normal ear, because my hands had got so clammy from the anxiety of finally making pasta that it wouldn't come off my thumb). At the end of the session, Alejandro showed Mario examples of what I'd produced--mine were fatter than normal orecchiette, not squished enough, and verging on mutant--to see if they should be served that night or thrown away. Mario examined them, sighed, and said, "Oh, they're O.K.," and then chuckled in a way that meant, "Bill, this is one of the easiest things in the kitchen to make, and yet--"

There are about forty ears in a serving--each one crushed by some guy's thumb--and eventually I mastered the squishing technique. I also discovered that, after you've made the first two thousand or so, your mind wanders: you think about everything, anything, whatever, nothing. (Such moments illustrate what is referred to as the Zen of making pasta, which is also a way of saying that making pasta can be very, very boring.) I was rather earnest during this phase, so I found that when my mind wandered it tended not to stray too far from the matter at hand. Why, I asked myself, would anyone want to eat a thing that looks like a squashed ear (yet, evidently, people have been doing it for hundreds of years)? So I studied each pasta and thought hard about its shape. The explanation I came up with involved belly buttons. As with belly buttons, there are two kinds of pasta: innies and outies. The innies, like ravioli and tortelli, are designed to surprise you with goodies inside: you bite in and discover a juicy something previously hidden from view. The outies are designed to "hold on" to the goodies from the outside. People like to eat orecchiette because they retain a tiny cup of sauce in their "ear," I decided, while ingeniously holding on to a little more on the bottom, along the ridges.

I made other pastas. I was being educated in texture: how you handle a long sheet of pasta like a piece of fabric, how it interacts with the air, the ways you can stretch it and the ways you can't. I made black pasta by adding squid ink to the mix, and gnocchi from big white Idaho potatoes. Garganelli, one of my favorites, required two elementary tools, a pencil and the same ridged piece of wood used for the orecchiette. You wrapped a square of dough around the pencil, and rolled it out against the wood, while exerting a little pressure; the result was a perfect outie--a tubular pasta but with ridges. (It looked a little like a ribbed caterpillar.)

Around half of the Babbo pastas were stuffed. Four of them were called ravioli and filled with cow brains, fennel and potato ("fenpot"), goose liver, or beef cheeks (the house specialty). Then, there were the pyramids, filled with whatever meaty thing was at hand, and the lune, filled with butternut squash, a cousin of Miriam's tortelli di zucca (Babbo's version was cut into circles, like la luna); mezzelune, with dried cod inside, and so named because they were cut to look like half-moons; and "love letters," filled with sweet peas and mint leaves (the name, like the pasta, was a poeticized mutation of a smaller pasta called francobolli, or "postage stamps"), which were air-mail-sticker-size rectangles, with zigzaggy ends.

Postage stamps, little moons, half-moons, and belly buttons. I feel compelled to pause for a moment and ask: What other culture has a tradition of serving up its national cuisine in the form of little toys? There seems never to have been a time when Italians weren't playing with their food. (When you make tortelli, one of Italy's oldest cookbooks says, at the beginning of the fourteenth century--and with such unrestrained glee that you're left to conclude that this food-as-a-plaything situation has been a feature of the Italian meal for a very long time--you can shape the dough into "horseshoes or brooches or rings, the letters of the alphabet, or any animal you can imagine.") Is the secret appeal of pasta, the world's greatest comfort food, in its evocation of childhood? Must an Italian dinner always include a version of animal crackers?

Pasta continued to intimidate me. If I couldn't recognize all these shapes, how would I ever learn to make and cook them? I now realize that even Italians don't know them: even if you grow up eating bow ties and guitar strings and pens, you never learn all the pastas, because there are too many--hundreds, according to the curator of the Museo Nazionale delle Paste Alimentari, Italy's national pasta museum, in Rome, where you can lose yourself for several hours marvelling at hundreds of years of food toys, exhibited like so many different butterflies in a lepidopterist's collection. But there is a basic pasta vocabulary--that's what most Italians master--that allows them to interpret all the variations they encounter for the rest of their lives. ("Oh, I get it, it's like penne, but gigantic, and with ridges.") And, if nothing else, I remained determined to learn the vocabulary.

When I was finally allowed to work at the pasta station in the evening, I discovered a cheat sheet taped to the wall. Everyone, I learned, needs a cheat sheet in the first weeks (there were more than twenty pasta dishes, a mixture of "fresca," fresh, and dried), and with this one--a page of once yellow blue-lined legal paper, rendered into a greasy transparency by some wild olive-oil moment--I was relieved to see that my predecessor had also been clueless and that the ingredients for preparing each dish were written out with a blunt pencil, along with some diagrams in the margins: two concentric circles to illustrate the hollow bucatini, for instance (buco means "hole"; bucatini means "things with little holes"); a flattish oblong to represent the linguine (lingua means "tongue," and linguine means "little tongues"); a small box to depict the chitarre (the pasta was thick and rough, like the bass strings of a guitar). Most of the names were misspelled, phonetic approximations: "ork" was orecchiette--no person, learning the station, would have known the word "orecchiette," and, besides, it was never used. What you heard was "ork," and you didn't see a written version, because, unlike every other station in the kitchen, where ticker-tape printouts were tacked up along the edge of a shelf, just above eye level, to remind you what you had next, this one had no place to stick the little slips of paper, which would have wilted in the steam and fallen off. Besides, the orders came so fast (everyone orders pasta) that you had no choice but to keep them in your head, however they happened to be spelled when you put them there.

What a pasta is served with is a wholly different branch of philosophy. At Babbo, five of the twenty or so pastas were served with a ragu. The Italian ragu and the French ragout are more or less the same thing; in any language, the process (I now know) involves taking a piece of meat and, as it was described in the vernacular of the kitchen, cooking the shit out of the fucker. The term is one of many at the heart of a centuries-long debate between advocates of French cooking and advocates of Italian, in the we-were-there-first stakes. The rivalry, felt more acutely by the Italians, who believe that they are seen by the French as a tribe of amusing primitives, might be summarized thus. In the history of modern European cooking, the Italian peninsula was the first territory to establish a sophisticated "high" cuisine, in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, in tandem with so many other creative flourishings of the Renaissance, and appeared principally on the tables of the wealthy in Milan, Florence, and Naples; then, the Italians claimed, their great secrets were packed up and transported over the Alps by Catherine de' Medici when, in 1553, she married the man who eventually became Henry II of France.

Afterward, France underwent its own cooking renaissance, culminating in the post-ancien regime Olympian dining events of Antonin Careme (with his elaborate aspics, his all-day sauces, and his extravagantly embellished architectural desserts), while the Italians, having decided that the New World fruit known to us as the tomato wasn't poisonous after all, and even had promise as a sauce, sank into a two-hundred-and-fifty-year culinary depression, and, in outright violation of their territorial and chauvinistic character, started imitating the French. All those "alla" constructions, for instance, that you see attached to dishes--risotto alla milanese, pollo alla cacciatora, bucatini all'amatriciana--are the Italian equivalent of the French a la, and arose out of a panicky effort to sound more sophisticated. Words changed: potacchio, meaning a thick soup, comes from the French potage; al cartoccio, a way of cooking something in a paper envelope, became in papigliote, after the French en papillotte; and a sugo became a ragu.

In 1903, the now very grand French cuisine was codified encyclopedically in Auguste Escoffier's "Guide Culinaire," which remains the seminal text of the "classical" approach. The seminal text in Italian cooking, "La Scienza in Cucina e l'Arte di Mangiar Bene" ("The Science of Cookery and the Art of Eating Well"), was written around the same time, and was a collection of home recipes gathered over a lifetime by a rich textile merchant named Pellegrino Artusi. Like Escoffier's book in France, Artusi's remains the ur-text of modern Italian cooking. The two books exemplify the difference between the two food cultures. Escoffier, drawing on his experience as the head of the restaurants in the grand hotels run by his partner Cesar Ritz, tells you the two hundred ways to make a sauce. Artusi, drawing on conversations with and letters from country housewives, tells you about belly buttons and the invention of tortellini. The French have become professional, scientific, urban, and refined; the Italians have made a virtue of being improvising amateurs, rustic and simple, following preparations handed down for generations.

Fundamentally, a ragu is an equation involving a solid (meat) and a liquid (broth or wine), plus a slow heat, until you reach a result that is neither solid nor liquid. The most famous ragu is a Bolognese, although there is (also famously) not one Bolognese but many. (Gianni Valdiserri, who, with his wife, Betta, taught Mario how to make pasta at their restaurant in the mountains not far from Bologna, confessed to me that when he and Betta married--Betta pregnant, sixteen years old, and still in school--he was concerned that, in their hurry, he hadn't yet tasted her ragu. This ragu, which she had learned from her aunt, had been passed down through many generations of her family, and would be different from the ragu that Gianni grew up eating, his mother's, which was profound and complex and touched something deep in his soul. He also knew that he'd never be able to teach Betta to prepare someone else's--she'd refuse; a ragu, he said, was a very personal thing--so imagine his happiness the first time he ate a ragu made by Betta and discovered that, yes, it was different from his mother's, and better.)

A Bolognese, made with a medieval kitchen's quirky sense of ostentation and flavorings, is unusually complicated. There are at least two meats (beef and pork, although local variations can insist on veal instead of beef, and prosciutto instead of pork, and sometimes prosciutto, pancetta, sausage, and pork, not to mention chicken livers) and three liquids (milk, wine, and broth), and either tomatoes (if your family recipe is modern) or no tomatoes (if the family recipe is older than Columbus), plus whatever else your great-great-great-great-grandmother said was essential. (The only meat in Miriam's, for instance, is sausage, cooked slowly with butter and oil, plus her own homemade tomato sauce, and the slightest hint of garlic: one clove, removed before the cooking is completed.) In any variation, however, the result has a texture characteristic of all ragus: a crumbly stickiness (that condition of being neither solid nor liquid, the meat having broken down into little bits, the liquid having almost entirely evaporated). Other ragus--sausage, rabbit, wild boar, hare, lamb--are more straightforward (meat, finely chopped-up vegetables, broth, a bottle of wine), but, whatever the ingredients, the result is the same, something that will stick to the surface of pasta, more dry than wet, a dressing more than a sauce, or, as Mario describes it, a "condiment," a term he uses regularly to emphasize that what a pasta is served with is--like ketchup and mustard on your hot dog--never more important than the pasta itself. (And yet it's still very important: Gianni speaks of the erotics of a new ragu as it cooks, filling up the house with its perfume, with a promise of an appetite that will later be satisfied. Actually, what he said was that the cooking of a fresh ragu "mi fa libidine"--gives him a hard-on--and until he can eat some he walks around in a condition of high arousal.)

The Bolognese ragu made at Babbo was served with pappardelle, a long, flat noodle, which Gianni and Betta ate when they had dinner there on their first trip to New York, in 1998--Betta noting, dismissively, that the pappardelle was made "with a machine." (Mario had told me of long trips he used to take with Gianni in search of some meal of indisputable regional authenticity--the perfect tortelli filled with autumn pumpkin in Mantua, say; an hour and a half's drive--only to have one bite, recognize that the pasta had been made by a machine rather than by hand, and walk out, dealing with their hunger by grabbing emergency panini in a bar on the drive back home.)

None of this, frankly, meant a lot to me at the pasta station. What mattered was that pappardelle was the easiest order ("Pap!") to prepare, if only because so much of the dish had been sorted out ahead of time and there wasn't a lot that could go wrong. I put two scoops of the ragu in a pan and added water, a dollop of uncooked tomatoes, and some butter--that was it. When the dish was done, I sprinkled on cheese and parsley (referred to as "chiff," for chiffonnade, to describe the feathery way it had been chopped). In fact, all the ragu dishes were fairly straightforward. The gnocchi ("Ox!") was served with an oxtail ragu (like a stringy beef stew), the love letters ("Love!") with a lamb-sausage ragu, the orecchiette ("Ork!") with a pork-sausage ragu plus a tongful of broccoli rabe. The problem was in the variations. For instance, to rehydrate the oxtail ragu, you added water and a half scoop of uncooked tomatoes--just as you did with the Bolognese--but no butter. Also, although you sprinkled cheese and parsley on at the end, the parsley was whole leaves, rather than the chopped-up feathery kind. Why? I didn't know why. I still don't know why. To fuck with my head--that's why. And to the lamb-sausage ragu that went with the love letters you added a little water and butter, just like the Bolognese, but no tomato, and then you finished it with cheese, like most of the others, but then mint leaves rather than parsley--after all, the love letters were stuffed with mint and peas. What didn't make sense was the red-chili flakes: you were meant to add these, too. Can you imagine--chili flakes and love letters?

"There's no chili in your love letters," Frankie Langello said. Frankie was the sous-chef at the time. He had tasted the ragu after the dish was plated, but he allowed a runner to carry it into the dining room anyway, because it was going out with three other dishes, and there was no time to prepare a new one without holding up the whole table. But he wasn't happy. "How could you fucking forget the chili--again?"

(The kitchen counted on the pasta station's running smoothly, and there wasn't the luxury of having a journalist-tourist, infatuated with the mystique of what he kept referring to as "pasta fresca," unless he was never going to make a mistake. It was an attitude thing. "Did I just burn you?" Frankie asked one night when he was standing next to me, sauteeing a pan of soft-shell crabs, which swell up in the heat until they explode, hurling water and hot oil in unpredictable directions. And, before I could formulate a witty reply, he interrupted me. "Good," he said, and then emptied the leftover oil in his frying pan with such violent recklessness that it splattered on the floor, all over the pasta station, and on me, burning me again.)

Even so, I was learning, even if my education seemed now to consist of lessons in what went with what. For instance, a filled pasta was rarely combined with a ragu, because the pasta itself was a vehicle for ragu (in the belly-button dichotomy, it was an innie); what you put on the outside, therefore, to dress it, was very simple--usually some kind of butter sauce. When Mario was in the kitchen, he called for small amounts of butter in the butter sauces and was always telling the guy at the pasta station to use less. When Mario was not in the kitchen, Andy Nusser, then the executive chef, called for immoderate quantities and was always telling the pasta guy to use more. Once, I protested, until Mark Barrett (the real pasta guy and my coach) shushed me. "Never challenge the person in charge, especially when he's wrong," he said, "or else he'll make your life hell, your night long, and your station miserable. He'll start piling on more orders than you can do. He'll find fault with everything. He'll make you redo dishes that you cooked perfectly the first time."

A butter sauce is an emulsion. "Emulsion" was another term that I only incompletely understood, although I knew enough to know that I was creating one when I added butter to broth to make a meat sauce at home. In the French cookbooks, this was a tricky moment, and great stress was put on everything being exactly right (the broth very hot, the butter very chilled and cut into very small bits, to be incorporated, one by one, into the broth with very steady whisking). The fear was that the emulsion might "break up" (whatever that meant). It's different in the restaurant: there you seem to be doing so many things, one after the other, that the thought never occurs to you that one might be trickier than another.

This is what happens. You're told to prepare an order of tortelloni ("Tort!"). You drop eight pieces into a basket bobbing in boiling water. Fresh pasta is less fussy than dried, and the cooking objective is different: you want a food that's soft and yielding rather than one that resists your bite. (The tortelloni take three minutes to cook, but you can leave them in the water for much longer.)

To prepare your sauce, you take a pan (from a stack on a shelf above your head), scoop out a quantity of butter (from a metal container against the wall), and plop it in. (At the station, your space is organized to reduce motion; your hope is never to move your feet.) You then tilt the pan over the pasta water so that you can splash some of the hot water into it, using your tongs. This is something of a finesse movement: dipping the trowel part of the tongs into the boiling water and then flicking it with your wrist so that the water lands in the pan and not on your forearm--which, of course, is where mine regularly arrived (causing it to swell immediately with red welts), unless I missed altogether. I got Mark more than once, startling him every time. (I practiced the flick movement at home until I realized that a big pot of boiling water atop a kitchen burner is really quite tall. It comes up to your chest--a restaurant pasta cooker is around waist level--which makes it much more difficult to splash water into your pan with tongs: the angles are all wrong and, unless you're eight feet tall or normally cook standing on a stool, it's almost impossible to get the pan in the line of the hot-water trajectory. The result was a very wet kitchen. Eventually, I realized that I didn't need to do the tong-flick at home--why not use a spoon?--although it was such a graceful, professional I-know-what-I'm-doing trick that I was reluctant to give it up.)

Next, you add a simple flavor: orange zest for the tortelloni. (For the lune, you add five sage leaves; for the mezzelune, five scallions--the idea is a strong herby or citrus flavor.) You take the pan, which now looks pretty disgusting--a pool of cloudy pasta water, a big lump of butter melting along the rim, and some desiccated orangey twigs--and put it on the flat top (a flat piece of steel on top of full-blast burners) and swirl it. You check the basket: a few tortelloni have risen. You swirl the pan again. With the heat and the movement, the contents are changing: they have become a uniformly colored yellow-orange liquid (yellowish from the butter, orange-ish from the zest), although more soup than sauce. You check your basket: all the tortelloni are floating. You swirl your pan again--almost ready, looking like a custard. But then there are three more orders, and by the time you get back to your pan, thirty seconds later, the liquid is mottled--still a sauce, but a diseased one, very ugly, not something you want to eat. You fix it by giving your pan another tong-flick of water (or, perhaps, a few tong-flicks, until one lands) and return it to the flat top; with one swirl, the mottled texture melts away. You can now remove the pasta basket and tip the tortelloni into the pan. All the splashy water has made the sauce soupy again, so you give the pan a swirl, and then another, until it "tightens" up. You're looking for the moment when the sauce streaks across the surface of the pan, which is when it will stick to the pasta.

This is an emulsion: an agreement between two unlike elements (butter and water), achieved by heat and motion. If you get it slightly wrong--as when the sauce starts to dry out (destroying the balance between the fat and the water)--the unlike elements pull apart, just as they did when they were first plopped in the pan: that's a broken sauce. Sometimes, during slow moments, or when I was waiting for a basket of pasta to cook, I deliberately let my sauce break up and get ugly, so that I could witness its snapping back into condition with a small flick of water. It was like an animated chemistry lesson.

Once, I was caught in mid-reverie. I was making a mushroom sauce that illustrated two things that were characteristic of the station: how to use heat and how to stop it. Like most sauces, this one was prepared in two stages and used only a few ingredients: mushrooms (yellowfoots, although almost any wild mushroom would work); some fresh thyme leaves; a finely chopped shallot; a little butter. To begin, you needed lots of heat. You put your pan on the flat top until it got really hot, until it darkened, and then you splashed it with olive oil--the pan went very smoky very quickly--followed by your mushrooms. And then: nothing. You didn't move the pan until, two, three minutes later, you detected the sweet woodsmoke smell of the mushrooms caramelizing. You picked up the pan and peeked at them: the mushrooms had a crunchy, sugary crust--not burned but on the verge of burning. You then sprinkled the pan with the shallots and the thyme, held it until they reacted to the high heat, and then shovelled in enough pasta water to stop the cooking: two, three, four tongfuls, until the pan hissed, steamed, and finally went quiet. That was Stage One: from high heat to no heat. Stage Two was when the order was fired. You retrieved the pan and made an emulsion: the butter, the swirling-swirling routine until the mushroom water became a sauce, sticky enough to adhere to a pasta--pappardelle, normally, but it could be tagliatelle or linguine or even a piece of grilled meat, like a steak. The reverie occurred at the end of Stage One, when I lifted the pan off the flat top and sprinkled it with the thyme. It had become my favorite moment. For a few seconds, nothing happened: the leaves were on the hot metal of the pan, taking in the heat. Then, one by one, they swelled, barely perceptibly, and exploded, a string of tiny explosions, like minuscule pieces of herby popcorn. And with each pop there was an aromatic eruption of thyme. I closed my eyes and put my face into the pan, breathing in the exploding herb leaves. I don't know how long I stood there. "What the fuck are you doing?" I opened my eyes. It was Frankie. "What the fuck are you doing?" He was standing inches from my face. The others were staring at me, and I pictured how I must have looked. "I like the smell of the popping thyme," I said weakly. I was expecting scorn, or a string of profanities, mockery at the very least. Instead, Frankie seemed surprised by my reply and didn't know quite what to say. His face became soft and puppy-dog-like. "Oh, well, then," he said, finally. "That's all right." I think he was embarrassed.

In all these dishes was an ingredient that you can't get at home: the restaurant's pasta water. At the start of the evening, it was perfectly clear (you could see through it to the shiny bottom of the pasta maker) and very salty. ("Like the sea," Mario always said, and then reminded you to keep dipping your finger into the boiling water, tasting it and adjusting it, tasting and adjusting, until it evoked a childhood memory of your first trip to the beach, but I never mastered the quick-dip or, for that matter, thought of my childhood--only that I'd just burned my finger again.) Midway through the service, the shiny bottom of the pasta cooker disappeared. This was the cloudy phase, and about two hours before the muddy one, when the water ceased being normal water and became, instead, an increasingly thick vehicle for soluble starch: yucky-sounding (and yucky-looking), but actually rather miraculous--when the water reached this condition, it behaved like a sauce thickener, binding the elements (and, in effect, flavoring the pasta with the flavor of itself). Even so, there was no escaping that the water the pasta was cooked in at the end of the night was very different from what it had been at, say, six o'clock. Just how different was evident when you finally had to clean the "bitch," as the pasta cooker was called--my task, and an indication of my position in the hierarchy. (Later, it slipped out that, when I wasn't there, I was known as the "kitchen bitch." Nice touch, I thought, as I mulled over the relationship between my status and my end-of-the-day responsibility: the kitchen bitch, cleaning the kitchen's bitch.)

For all that, it was a pretty straightforward contraption. After you removed the pasta baskets, it was just two sinks in a metal stand, and a large, gas-fired heating element. The difficulty was in what you found at the bottom--normally, a richly layered expression of the restaurant's archeology, composed of, say, goat cheese (because the tortelloni were always leaking), butternut squash (because the lune always lost a little as well), and tiny bits of everything else, including, occasionally, shellfish (where did they swim in from?). Also, the cooker was always hot--furnace hot. Even when the heating element was turned off, it remained very hot, and the green abrasive "scrubby" that you used steamed on contact, softened slowly, and eventually started to cook, like a piece of plastic ravioli. (It's not that you get hot, cleaning the bitch; you just don't cool down. You're already very hot, and have been very hot for many hours. I have never been so hot. It would take hours before my body temperature started to drop, and even at four or five in the morning, when I finally went to bed, I continued to radiate heat, my insides a meaty something still cooking, my mind unable to stop the recurrent thought that this was my life: I'd become a sausage.)

Why don't more people use pasta water at home? Sometimes I thought it should be bottled, because there is no way that your home water could ever achieve the starchy viscosity of a restaurant's. (It would be cheap--being liquidy leftovers--and the jar should be very large, probably darkly tinted, like a wine bottle, because there would be no reward in looking too closely at what was floating inside.)

The thought also made me curious about the moment in the history of American cooking when efficiency won out over taste and, instead of using a pair of tongs, and pulling the spaghetti straight out of the pot, people started using a colander (an evil instrument) and letting all that dense, murky rich "water" rush down the drain. The practice is described in the original, 1931 edition of "The Joy of Cooking," in its "Rules for Boiling Spaghetti, Macaroni, Creamettes and Noodles," along with the even more alarming one of taking your colander full of spaghetti (rather mushy, since you've boiled it for an hour), or macaroni (easy to chew, after being boiled for twenty minutes), or creamettes (no longer a supermarket item, alas, but once the essential ingredient in a baked creamette loaf), and rinsing the pasta in cold water--oh, heresy of heresies--just to make sure that there is nothing clinging to it. I hold the author responsible for the many plates of sauce-heavy spaghetti that, as a feature of my own American childhood, were prepared by my mother, who was born two years after the cookbook was published. To be fair to both my mother and the author, a plate of spaghetti with meat sauce remains for me an eternal comfort food, even if the meal was not about the pasta. Still, the cultural disregard for the noodle contributed to my ignorance of it. It also contributed to my prejudice about dried pasta, a prejudice that I finally overcame in the Babbo kitchen, in an epiphany of sorts.

The occasion was an impromptu late-night family meal--two family meals, actually. The first featured a big platter of linguine alle vongole (linguine with clams), which Mark was making for the runners and dishwashers (each one took a plate of the pasta and put a bowl on top to keep it warm, and then hid it behind a pot or underneath a towel--too busy finishing up to eat the food now, but too mistrustful of others to leave it out). The second meal was one that I was preparing, a bowl of steamed cockles, for the restaurant manager and the wine steward (the executives in charge that particular night and entitled, by virtue of their positions, to be served at a table out front).

I'd become curious about the difference between clams and cockles. In practice, the two names are often used interchangeably; at Babbo, they were interchangeable, because they were the same shellfish (and came neither from the Mediterranean nor from New England but from New Zealand, every Monday and Thursday morning). These New Zealand "cockle-clams" were small, purple, and round, and prized for their resemblance to the tiny, tasty Italian veraci clams, and for their uniformity: no variation in shape, no variation in cooking time, which (with your burner on at full blast) was exactly six minutes, a little less than the six minutes and thirty seconds it took to cook the pasta for the linguine alle vongole, which, as it happened, wasn't actually linguine, which takes nine minutes, but linguine fine (a faster-cooking, fine long flat noodle). Frankly, I hated both shellfish dishes. The preparations were so fussy: one ("Ling!") was started with garlic, red onions, and red-pepper flakes; the other ("Cock!") with garlic, red onions, and slices of a fiery green pepper. (Green pepper? Red pepper? Do you think you'd spot the difference?) One took butter, the other didn't. One took white wine, the other tomato sauce. One finished with parsley, the other with Thai basil. (Why Thai basil? Why does parsley work with New Zealand cockle-clams when they're called clams and served atop pasta but not when they're called cockles and served without it? And, for that matter, why was I preparing cockles anyway: where was the pasta? Why? Why? You know why.) By now, I had flash cards for all the restaurant's preparations, and I lost much of a morning memorizing the supposed and, to my mind, wholly contrived differences between Ling and Cock. It wasn't that I was having trouble remembering which was which--after all, it was the same shellfish in both dishes. I was having trouble doing that instantaneous, unreflected recall required by the pasta station; you got in trouble and fell behind if you switched your pan from your left hand to your right (it took too much time); you got in trouble if you had to look for your tongs; you got in trouble if you ever had to ask or wonder or remember, so you aspired to have everything memorized on such a deep level--like language, or the alphabet, or numbers--that you never found yourself thinking. Also, frankly, I didn't get the point of putting shellfish in pasta. You can't eat the shells, can you? And the eating was all so elaborate; you really needed a bib, an extra plate, a finger bowl, an extra napkin, and an extra quantity of vigilance just to make sure that you didn't stick a shell in your mouth. It seemed a hygienic exercise, like bathing--in any case, not dinner.

I had another realization that night, which arose from my noticing that, when it gets late, the cooking that matters is for the staff, and not for the diners who have just straggled in. Around midnight, the kitchen was something of a demilitarized zone, meant to be closed but still serving food, owing to the insistence of John Mainieri, the maitre d', who sometimes accepted late seatings and was openly loathed by some members of the kitchen staff as a result: they hissed at his appearance, whistled, and erupted in a braying chorus of posh-sounding "Hallo!"s. (A distressing thing to witness, not least because I was fond of John.) In general, it is often possible to argue your way into a restaurant just as the kitchen is closing. But I urge you, the next time you find yourself in that position, trying to persuade a maitre d' to accommodate you--bowing abjectly and apologizing, citing the traffic, the crowds, a fluent stream of obsequious servility, maybe even a crisp banknote in the man's palm--to recognize that the members of the kitchen know you're there. They are waiting for your order, huddled around the ticker-tape machine, counting the seconds until it appears, and heaping imprecations on your head because you cannot make up your mind. They are speculating--will it be something light, a single course, perhaps? (That's what I would order, someone says, and everyone else loudly agrees.) Will I be able to drain the pasta machine? Will the grill guy be able to turn off the burners? Or will the diners--and the late ones are usually referred to simply as "those fuckers"--be so clueless as to order the five-course tasting menu? It happens, and the response of the kitchen--a bellowing roar of disgust--is so loud that everyone in the restaurant must hear it. By now the kitchen is different. At eleven, beer is allowed, and, for nearly an hour, the cooks have been drinking. The senior figures have disappeared: Andy is downstairs doing something with a computer; Frankie is doing something in the walk-in. No one is in charge. The people remaining are tired and dirty. The floors are greasy and wet--this is when the walk-in door swings open, and someone is suddenly airborne. The pasta machine is so thick and crud-filled that the water has turned purple and is starting to foam. Do you need more details? Let me rephrase the question: Do you think, if your meal is the last order received by the kitchen, that it has been cooked with love?

But then--in the rush to clean up,the washing, scrubbing, mopping; the search for one-quart containers (why are there never enough one-quart containers?); the crash of a falling tray; the speed with which you clear away the food at your station, wrapping up some, throwing away most, including the ingredients needed to cook that tardy, last remaining order (sorry, Jack, that's what you get for showing up so late); the trash talk about the maitre d', who has returned to see if there's a family meal; the persistent hunger of the dishwashers (they have nothing at home); the late-night, slightly blurry, slightly drunken frenzy of a kitchen closing up, wanting to be done, wanting to get out--amid all this, I suddenly got the point of pasta with clams.

This is what happened: Mark, having cooked up a large quantity of linguine for its regulation six minutes and thirty seconds, emptied it into a pan of New Zealand cockle-clams, sloppily dripping lots of that starchy water on them in the process, a big wet heap of pasta on top of several dozen shellfish; he swirled the pan, gave it a little flip, swirled it again, and then left it alone so that it could cook, bubbling away, for another half minute. (This was curious, I thought, watching him--you don't normally leave a pan of pasta on the flat top.) Then he took a strand and tasted it. He gave me one. It was not what I expected. It was no longer linguine, exactly; it had changed color and texture and become something else. I tasted it again. This, I thought, is the equivalent of soaking bread in gravy, except it wasn't bread but pasta, and not gravy but a highly flavored sauce. But what was the sauce? I looked at the pan: the cockle-clams had been all closed up a few minutes earlier, and as they cooked their shells opened, and as they opened they released the juices inside--lots of juices. That's what I was tasting in this strand of linguine: an ocean pungency. ("It's about the sauce, not the little snot of meat in the shell," Mario told me later. "No one is interested in the little snot of meat!")

What I had learned in an Italian kitchen was that a meal is about the pasta, not the sauce. But here, in tasting this strand of linguine, I was discovering that it wasn't about either the pasta or the sauce; it was about both, about the interaction between a pasta and a sauce, the result--this new thing, this highly flavored noodle--evocative of a childhood trip to the sea.

The normal, Italian preparation of linguine alle vongole, I have since discovered, is simpler than what is done at Babbo. ("Italians," Mario says, "won't fuck with their fish: there are restaurants that won't use lemon because they think it's excessive.") Mario's partner, Joe Bastianich, pointed out to me that the restaurant uses a few tricks (perhaps refinements?) that you'd never find in Italy. (Joe also recommended using other clams at home--any other clams--rather than the restaurant's perfectly formed, perfectly reliable New Zealand cockle-clams: "But what can you do? You can't run a restaurant that serves the big juicy clams one night, then something else later in the week because your fish guy can't find them anymore.") The tricks include: red-chili flakes (acceptable, especially in Southern Italy), sliced garlic (everywhere), finely chopped red onion (whoa), parsley (a little flashy), plus (and these, simple as they seem, are the radical touches) wine, butter, and thin slivers of pancetta. The only ingredient that is actually measured is the pasta (a serving is four ounces). Everything else is what you can pick up with your fingertips. It's either a small pinch or a large pinch or, well, something in between: not helpful, I know, but that, alas, is the way quantities are measured in a restaurant.

(When a cookbook is prepared, a tester comes to the kitchen, picks up all the ingredients needed to make a dish, and takes them away to translate them into quantities that people at home might recognize. In the foodie publishing world of magazines and books, these testers--who have very white kitchens, with carefully calibrated ovens and computerized weighing devices--are the despots of the written recipe. But I've never been entirely persuaded by the reliability of the translation: either the quantities in the restaurant original are so large that they don't seem right when they're shrunk down--lamb shanks for thirty-four just doesn't look the same when it's done for two; the chemistry is different, the sauce less rich in the reduced version--or the quantities in the original are so small that they don't seem accurate when they're given a specific measurement. Some of the preparations in the Babbo cookbook look unfamiliar to me. For instance, do you really believe that the linguine with eels takes four garlic cloves, that the lobster spaghettini takes two, and that the chitarre takes three? No. It's the same for each: a small pinch. And what happened to the red onions, a feature of the lobster spag--a medium pinch--but not mentioned. Were there no red onions the day the tester arrived? Even so, Mario is the author of the translated quantities in the Babbo cookbook, and I consult it constantly: just that sometimes it seems like a Borges version of the place I worked.)

The downside of the restaurant approach to doing measurements by hand is that, by the end of the evening, your fingertips are stained with the heady perfumes of some of the earth's most powerful aromatics, and you can do nothing to eliminate them. You wash your hands. You soak them in hot water. You shower, and then scrub your hands again. Even the next day, they stink of raw onion and garlic and pork fat, and, convinced that everyone around you is picking up the smell, you ram them into your pockets, maniacally rubbing your fingers against each other and feeling a little like an obsessive-compulsive Lady Macbeth. (At home, the rule was that, when working the pasta station, I slept with my head at the foot of the bed, while my wife slept in the normal position, an arrangement designed to prevent the recurrence of an earlier mishap, when one of my hands flopped across her face and woke her with a revolting start.)

If you're making linguine with clams at home, you should begin by roasting (small pinches of) the garlic and chili flakes and (medium pinches of) the onion and pancetta in a hot pan with olive oil. Hot oil accelerates the process, and the moment the garlic, chili, onion, and pancetta are soft, you pour the oil away (holding back the contents of the pan with your tongs) and add a slap of butter and a splash of white wine, which stops the cooking. This is Stage One--and you are left with the familiar messy, buttery mush--but already you've added two things that you'd never see in Italy: butter (because it creates an emulsion, but seafood with butter--or cheese, or cream, or any other dairy ingredient--is unusual, if not verging on outright culinary blasphemy) and pancetta, because, according to Mario, pork and shellfish are one of those eternal combinations that you see in many places--in Portugal, for instance, in ameijoas na cataplana (clams and ham); or in Spain, in a paella (which often includes chorizo and scallops); or in the United States, in the Italian-American clams casino--even if none of those places happen to be in Italy. In Stage Two, you drop the pasta in the water, then take your messy buttery pan, fill it with a big handful of clams (enough to cover its bottom), and put it on the highest possible flame, the objective being to cook them very fast--they'll start opening after three or four minutes.

As the shells open, you give the pan a swirl, mixing their juices with the buttery porky white-wine emulsion, and pull out the pasta with your tongs--all that starchy pasta water is still a good thing--give it another swirl, flip it, swirl it again, to insure that the pasta is covered by the sauce. If it is looking too dry, you add a splash of pasta water; if too wet, pour some of the liquid out, and then let the thing cook away, for another half minute or so, swirling, swirling, until the sauce starts streaking across the bottom of the pan. At the end, you splash it with fresh olive oil and sprinkle it with parsley: dinner.

After I'd worked the pasta station, I was still not satisfied. I knew that a true pasta fresca is made by hand: rolled out by a specially designed wooden rolling pin (called a matterello) on an old piece of board, the older and more battered the better. The idea was wood on wood, for extra, ineffable layers of texture and "mouth feel."

I phoned Miriam. I asked if I could work in her kitchen.

"Certo," she said. "Phone me when you are next in Italy and come by one afternoon."

This was difficult. I was thinking not of one afternoon but, you know: a week. Or two weeks. Maybe a month.

She panicked. "What? A month? I would never let a stranger in my kitchen for so long a time. An afternoon. O.K., maybe a day. But a month. And, besides, what do you think I can teach you?" she asked, repeating her motto. "I am not an original cook."

I mentioned the mysteries of pasta fresca, the labors of wood on wood, the elusive know-how of getting the texture, and the thinness of the sheets, just right.

"What in the world are you talking about?" she said. "I have old arms. My old arms cannot do this kind of thing anymore." Besides, she added, she couldn't get a pastina anymore.

This was not a term I knew.

A pastina, she explained, was one of the local women who made pasta. That was their job: every day, to roll out the sheets. "I always used to be able to get a pastina. No one does that sort of thing anymore. They're far too busy. Modern life. I use a machine. I make the dough by hand, and I cut by hand. But I use the machine to roll out the sheets."

A machine? Miriam, my romantic defender of the old, centuries-long, traditional ways of cooking, the living embodiment of Maestro Martino, uses a machine? Maybe, I thought, there was a lesson in that, too.

 

1