Meet
the Kyoto 2001
June 28-29, 2001
Kyoto Prefectural International
Center regularly organizes study programs, trips as well as home stay
program to introduce various traditional Kyoto cultures to foreigners.
The recent trip, called “Meet the Kyoto 2001” was to introduce Kyoto food
material “Kyo-fu 京麩and
Kyo-yuba京湯葉” and traditional
Kyoto cuisine. The program divided into two days. The first day is to
visit Fu and Yuba factory of Hanbeifu 半兵衛麩Co., Ltd.
The second day, participants are invited to old restaurant Mangemero 萬亀楼which
history traced back to old imperial era.
According to the pamphlet of
the program, with thousands years history, character of Kyoto cuisine
can be characterized as “continual striving for perfection”. Vegetable
and soybean products are main ingredients of Kyoto food. Influenced by
Zen Buddhist, the original taste is only slightly adjusted, leaves the
food in subtle flavor.
Food Material of Kyoto Kyo-fu and Kyo-yuba
June 28, 2001
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Fu and Yuba are a kind
of vegetarian food. Fu is made from wheat while yuba is made from
soy bean. We can find fu in our daily dish such as in miso soup,
even in instant one, there is dry fu inside. Originally, fu and
yuba were prepared and eaten in Buddhist temples as vegetarian food
for monks in China. According to Buddhist rules, killing is prohibited
so strictly follow, food must contain no meat. Fu and yuba therefore
give vegetable protein substituted for animal protein in monks’
vegetarian food. When Japan imported Buddhism from China, fu and
yuba were brought along as religious dish and were cooked only in
Buddhist temples.
There are two reasons
why Kyoto becomes famous for fu and yuba. One is that Kyoto is center
for Buddhism where thousands of temples located. Secondly, Kyoto
water is famous for its purity and thus lends good taste for fu
and yuba, both of which need lots of water in making.
To make fu, one has to
grind wheat around an hour until it becomes flour. Add water then
pour white water off, leave only sticky mochi-like glutin. This
sticky glutin is called nama-fu 生麩
which can also be cooked in various ways, boiled, grilled, fried
etc. In China or Thailand, it can be found in normal vegetarian
food. Another
form of fu is yaki-fu焼き麩 which is the above
nama-fu grilled until it becomes dry in form of long stick. This
dry fu lasts for six months and normally put in soup.
Yuba is made from soy
bean. First, beans are left in water until they become soft. Then,
boil and mash. Separate the bean-milk 豆乳
off and boiled the milk again. Take the film-like top layer to dry
it. This film-like layer is yuba.
Although fu and yuba can
be found in daily life, in Buddhist temples, they are served in
the special vegetarian dish called Shojinryouri 精進料理.
This is not simply a dish without meat, but a dish in which composed
of three fives, i.e.
1.
Five colors五色:red
赤
(ex. carrot)、yellow黄 (ex. pumpkin,
beans, sweet potato)、white
白
(ex. rice, radish)、black黒 (ex. shitake
mushroom, konbu), green青 (ex. normal green leaves vegetable)
2.
Five tastes五味:sweet,
sour, bitter, salty and hot/spicy
3.
Five way of cooking五法:fresh/raw,
grill, steam, boil and fry.
Furthermore, to appreciate
Kyoto food is not simply enjoy the taste but also to think of food
from its origin, of people who involve in preparing.
Four thai are invited
to join this program: Leng, Num, 1 and me. There are around forty
people in the whole group, coming from all parts of the world. The
study tour took place in the office of Hanbeifu. I don’t think it
opens for all visitors so we got privilege to be here.
After listening an interesting
lecture “ Food Material of Kyoto” by the company president Mr. Tatsuji
TAMAOKI 玉置 辰次氏,
participants are separated into small groups of 7 to experience
how to make fu and yuba. All of us except Num went to fu factory
and made fu mochi. Although it looked so simple, we found it very
difficult to make the shape of mochi neat and nice (to eat). We
spread nama-fu onto our palm and put a cube of mash red bean. Then,
fold fu to cover bean. Put this ball into boiled water for five
minutes and leave in cold water for a while. Then, we wrap this
ball by bamboo leave and it is ready to eat. However, since none
of us is professional, the finished mochi was so ugly and although
the company allowed us to take them home, not so many did so….maybe
the rest would have been gone to the bin. After we came back from
visiting the factory, we could taste other products of HANBEIFU.
All were delicious and no surprise that they were taken home by
everyone.
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Further information:
Hanbeifu Co.,Ltd. East
office
Goryo-cho 48, Nishihichijo,
Shimogyou-ku, Kyoto 600-8893
Phone: 075-312-0008, 0120-49-0008
URL: www.hanbey.co.jp
The company also operates
a restaurant to introduce fu and yuba near Gojo bridge, next to
its head office.
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Kyoto Cuisine
Ikamaryu-Shikibocho and Yusoku ryouri (cuisine of the
Court)
June 29, 2001
In the second day of the program,
we were invited to traditional Kyoto restaurant hidden in small road next
to Horikawa. The old wooden gate led us into old Japanese house. First,
the owner’s son performed Ikamaryu-shikibocho 生間流式包丁披露,
the cutting fish ceremony, the art equally sophisticated as Tea ceremony
and Ikebana. Fish was sliced and arranged into five parts, symbolized
life in the sea. (you needs lots of imagination to understand, though.)
After that, Mr.Shigeyoshi Konichi 小西 重義氏,
the president of Mangamero, gave lecture on Kyoto Cuisine. He showed old
role of court food and shogun banquet food served in old days by his family.
Honestly speaking, I didn’t really understand the lecture today since
he spoke so fast and left no room for translation. Anyhow, the most impressive
experience is that we were served the food by this restaurant! I didn’t
know the name of the dish nor the style it was served, but I did enjoy
it a lotJ
yummy yummy.
Further information:
Mangamero restaurant
Demizuagaru, Inokuma,
Kamigyou-ku, Kyoto
Phone: 075-441-5020
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Sponsored by Kyoto Prefectural
International Center
Phone: 075-342-5001
Fax: 075-342-5050
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