This section assumes that you have made wine before in a manner similar to
what was covered in Basic Wine making
and are ready to take the next step in improving the quality of your wine.
The main difference in making red wine vs. white wine is in the amount of skin contact time allowed. In a white wine the grapes are crushed and pressed usually in rapid succession and only the resulting juice is fermented. When making a red wine the grape skins are kept in contact with the juice for an extended period of time. The mixture of grapes and skins is called must. To make a red wine the yeast is added directly to the must and allowed to ferment. Fermentation in glass carboys is impractical with must so it is done in wide mouth containers. I use a food grade plastic trash can or I ferment directly in the 5 gallon pails that my frozen must from California comes in. During fermentation pigment and tannin in the skins will be released to the juice. Red wine fermentation tends to be very active and fast. The large amount of Carbon Dioxide produced will push the skins to the top of the fermenter and this cap needs to be punched down several times a day to keep the skins in contact with the juice and to prevent spoilage. Because of the fast fermentation, heat generation can also be a problem. The temperature of the fermenting must should be monitored and reduced if necessary.
One more thing to consider about making red wine from grapes is that you will need to press the grapes to separate the skins from the juice when primary fermentation is completed. For small batches of wine, a small 1-2 gallon cider press will work fine. For larger batches the sky and the size of your wallet are the limits.
With all that in mind let's review the red wine making process:
I must admit up front that this is not one of my strong areas of knowledge. I don't make sweet wine on a regular basis but I will tell you here what little I know. Let's start with a barely sweet wine since that is the simplest. If you follow the same procedure as with making a dry white wine but use Cotes des Blanc (Epernay 2) yeast and ferment your wine at as cold a temperature as possible (45-50 deg F) you will have a long slow fermentation yielding a fruity slightly sweet wine. This technique works well with Riesling or Vidal grapes. A word of caution; Cotes des Blanc will stop fermenting earlier than other yeasts but it will do it when it is ready. It is not the yeast to choose if you want to try to stop fermentation at your desired sugar level. It has a high tolerance to Meta which brings us to the next method of making sweet wine and that is to stop the fermentation process before it's normal completion. Two ways I know to do this are with chemicals or with filtration or of course with a combination of the two but that makes three so we won't discuss that one. Potassium Sorbate can be added to a wine to suppress fermentation but in my experience you have to use the minimum amount possible or it imparts a noticeable flavor to the wine. The sorbate addition should be followed by an addition of Meta for the one two punch to knock out the yeast before it's time. You could also stop fermentation by filtering the wine to remove yeast cells. This requires a special filter medium with a .2 micron or smaller spec. I have friends that use both methods successfully so don't let my lack of knowledge hold you back. Go for it.
I have avoided math and science up to this point as much as possible so as not to scare anyone away. (Since you are on the Internet, I probably didn't have to worry.) The time has come though to discuss some basic wine analysis.
Knowing the acidity of your juice and wine and being able to correct it when necessary will be a major advantage to you in your quest to make consistently high quality wine.
You can get an acidity test kit from your local wine supply shop or from mail order. In it's most basic form you need some way to measure at least 10ml of liquid in .1ml increments and some .1N Sodium Hydroxide and some Phenolphthalein. You need to start with 5ml of juice or wine in a glass along with about 50ml of water. To this add 5drops of Phenolphthalein. Then start adding Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) from a syringe or burette so that you know exactly how much you are adding. Swirl or stir the glass all the while. In a white wine you will see the liquid turn pink and then back to normal. When it just stays pink stop adding NaOH and note how much you used. Multiply the amount used by .15 and you will have your wine's acidity in percent. For instance if you had to add 5ml of NaOH, your acidity would then be .75
When you are testing fermented wine and not juice you need to drive out all the Carbon Dioxide from the sample before testing. CO2 takes the form of Carbonic acid when dissolved in the wine (or something like that) and will throw off your reading. I microwave my 5ml sample until I see the first sign of boiling then add 50ml of cold water before testing. This works well for me.
When I started making wine about 5 years ago Red Star brand yeast was the only thing available to me, and the people I learned from basicly stuck to 3 varieties, Epernay for fruity off dry wines, Montrachet for dry wines, and Pasteur Champagne for bone dry wines. I still use Red Star yeast and am happy with the quality and price of their product. They now have a wider range of products and there are other options available to home wine makers these days as well. Let me give you my as always highly opinionated description of the yeasts I am familiar with.
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