Costume Collegium

Saturday, June 15, 2002



Time Room 1 Room 2 Room 3 Room 4
10:30-11:00 Opening Comments. (Robin Netherton) X X X
11:20-12:20 The Gothic Fitted Dress and the Greenland Gored Gown.
(Robin Netherton)

The Evolution of the Tudor Dress.
(Mistress Elizabeth Talbot)

Flat Pattern Method as Applied to a Fitted Garment.
(Mistress Rhianwen o Enfys Disberod)

The Knitting Road Show.
(Mistress Rose Otter)

12:30-1:30
1:40-2:40

X

Italian Men’s Doublet of 1420-1470 – the Farsetto.
(Maestra Damiana Illariad ’Onde)  

Tapets and Hoods - 14th c Accessories.
(Lady Muriel de Chimay)

An Orientation to the Dyer's Art.
(Mistress Thora Sharptooth)

2:50-3:50

Will the Real Sideless Surcoat Please Stand Up?
(Robin Netherton)

The Loose Goun - A Transitional Garment between the 14th & 15th Centuries.
(Mistress Katherine Gillesfluers)

Italian Women's Dress - The Gamurra.
(Baroness Kamilla van Anderlecht)

Care and Feeding of Textiles in the 16th Century.
(Mistress Thora Sharptooth)

4:00-5:00 The 15th Century V-Necked Gown.
(Robin Netherton)

The Coppergate Sock and How to get Started (aka Nalbinding 101)  (Lady Alistrina de Mann)

How to Draft a Basic Sleeve.
(Baroness Kamilla van Anderlecht, Lady Muriel de Chimay)

16th Century Cassocks – History and Construction Baron Jehan du Lac, Master Luke Knowlton

5:10-6:10

Whole Garment Roundtable
(assorted panelists)

Basic Byzantine Costuming  (Lady Ansitruda Helgasdottir)

X X
CLASS DESCRIPTIONS
Classroom 1
11:20 – 1:30 The Gothic Fitted Dress and the Greenland Gored Gown  (Robin Netherton)
This session begins with a detailed analysis of the fitted fashion of 14th century Western Europe, showing the various versions and uses of the style, how it evolved from earlier unfitted fashions, and how it formed the basis for the later development of the more structured fashions of the 15th and 16th centuries. This will include some discussion of construction techniques as well as the social significance of the fashion and its presentation in artwork. The last part of the session will focus on the extant garments from the Herjolfsnes (Greenland) grave site, particularly the oft-cited "ten-gore" dress, with a discussion of how the Greenland finds might influence our understanding of 14th century European fashion.
2:50 – 3:50

Will the Real Sideless Surcote Please Stand Up?  (Robin Netherton)
An overview of the development and significance of the  woman's sideless surcote of the 14th and 15th centuries in England, France, and Flanders. A slide lecture will show how to distinguish between the surcote's uses as a real garment and as a symbolic device in artwork. We will also examine various approaches to construction.

4:00 – 5:00 The 15th Century V-Necked Gown (Robin Netherton)
The so-called "Burgundian" fashion that dominates most of the 15th century is in fact two separate styles, which have distinctive characteristics and are apparently constructed in two completely different ways. A slide lecture will demonstrate the differences and provide clues as to how the two styles developed and the ways
5:10 – 6:10 Whole Garment Roundtable   (Dame Catriona Mairghread nic Dhuibh of Moray, Mistress Elizabeth Talbot, Maestra Damiana Illario d’Onde, Lord Joseph van der Cullen. . .)
A discussion of beginning-to-end outfit construction.  Discuss and compare techniques and approach.  Discuss and compare period materials vs. mundane material.  Provide insight to the age old questions of compromise – when is it OK to compromise on fabric content, fabric design, construction.  If time allows, answer questions from class.
Classroom 2
11:20 – 1:30

The Evolution of the “Tudor” Dress  (Mistress Elizabeth Talbot)
This is a two-hour slide lecture dicussing the gowns we think of as “Tudor”.  In the first part, we’ll look at images of Tudor royal women, and in the second, we’ll look at images of earlier English, French and Flemish styles to identify some of the key features of this style and how they evolved into the class Holbein-era gowns of which we’re so fond.

1:40 – 2:40

Italian Men’s Doublet of 1420-1470 – the farsetto  (Maestra Damiana Illaria d’Onde)
Explores the style, construction and sources of the primary garment for men during the 15th century in Italy.  Discusses the fashionable shape and close fit of the farsetto and how to achieve this, along with appropriate complementary garments such as hose, shirt and over robes.  Very detailed information available on Damiana’s website will be referenced.

2:50 – 3:50

The Loose Goun – A Transitional Garment between the 14th and 15th Centuries  (Mistress Katherine Gillesfleur)
How to make the Loose Goun beginning with the 8 pieced Greenland gown – and it’s transition from the Middle Classes to the Upper Classes.

4:00 - 5:00 The Coppergate Sock and How to Get Started  (aka Nalbinding 101)  (Lady Alistrina de Mann)    A brief history of nalbinding with emphasis on the 10th Century sock found at an archeological site in York, England, followed by instruction of the nalbinding stitch used in that particular item.  There will be plenty of handouts, but needle and yarn (enough with which to practice) will be available for only five attendees  (free of charge).  All are welcome to audit.
5:10 - 6:10 Basic Byzantine Costuming  (Lady Ansitruda Helgasdottir)                                                            A high level overview of Byzantine costuming.  Focusing on the history of the influences on Byzantine costuming  (4th --11th centuries and why it developed into a different "look" from the European clothes of the same period.
Classroom 3
11:20 – 1:30

Flat Pattern Method as Applied to a Fitted Garment  (Mistress Rhianwen o Enfys Disberod)
Utilizing a method of pattern-making, the drafter will learn how to accomplish many different patterns from just one basic pattern.  Learn how to apply this method to fitted garments from any time period and country and for either women’s fashion or men’s.  Students will be given a miniaturized template and a series of exercises for adapting bodices and sleeve treatments to period styles.  Bring paper and pencil for notes.  $2 fee for working materials/handouts.

1:40 – 2:40

Tapets and Hoods – 14th c accessories  (Lady Muriel de Chimay)
A pictorial overview of Tapets and other sleeve treatments in the 14th century, with an open-discussion on common features.  This will be followed by a similar overview on 14th century hoods and the various ways they were made, worn, and embellished.  There is a handout that will help you to make your own patterns.

2:50 – 3:50 Italian Women’s Dress – The Gamurra  (Baroness Kamilla van Anderlecht)
A pictorial overview of the basic woman’s garment from the Italian Renaissance.  Discussion of the various common features, its progression through the century.
4:00 – 5:00

How to Draft a Basic Sleeve  (Baroness Kamilla van Anderlecht, Lady Muriel de Chimay)
We will teach you how to draft a basic sleeve to fit any garment  (from the fitted Viking sleeve to Italian Renaissance).  By using simple math, a ruler, pattern paper and 20 minutes of your time – you will learn how to make a sleeve that FITS.  This is a good class for people starting to make their own patterns – or those making adjustments to existing patterns.  There will be an opportunity for you to even try Drafting these yourself.

Classroom 4
11:20 – 1:30

The Knitting Road Show  (Lady Rose Otter)
The class will include a brief overview of knitted costume items:  hats, gloves, stocks, sleeves, waistcoats and purses.  Students will be able to take home patterns and view various knitted items.  The last ¾ of the class will be used to teach knitting and answer questions about the handouts.  No Limit on the number of “auditors”.  Limit of 5 students for knitting materials.  Limit of 10 students for handouts only.

1:40 – 2:40

An Orientation to the Dyer’s Art  (Mistress Thora Sharptooth)
An overview of the basic set of dyestuffs used, by whom, when, and for what, as attested by period sources and artifacts.  Sample set: $1.00  (Twelve sets available).  Free Bibliography.

2:50 – 3:50

Care and Feeding of Textiles in the 16th Century  (Mistress Thora Sharptooth)
Based on period texts, this class will cover cleansing, spot removal, protection of embroidery on clothing, perfuming, and storing of textiles.  Some very basic textile chemistry will be included.  Free handout including some text excerpts.

4:00 – 5:00

16th Century Cassocks – History and Construction  (Baron Jehan du Lac and Master Luke Knowlton)
This class will take a look at the cassock, a practical man’s garment of the last quarter of the 16th century.  It was worn as a more casual alternative to the doublet by the well-to-do, as a military garment for soldiers and in coarse materials as warm and comfortable work clothes for laborers.  We will discuss materials, construction and decoration.  You will have the chance to copy our patterns and there will be a handout available with instructions for making a cassock and illustrations.

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