Biba

3.6 (A-) HoF

2001 Capitol Mall, Sacramento
Reservations strongly recommended!

Food * * * 1/2
Service * * * *
Ambience * * * 1/2
Value 6.5
Cost $ $ $ $

Braised Rabbit with Grilled Polenta

$7.75

  * * *
Lamb Medallions with Grilled Polenta

20.00

  * * * 1/2
Quail with Squash and Grilled Polenta

20.00

  * * * *
Grand Marnier Zuppa Inglese

5.00

  * * * * !
Tiramisu

5.00

  * * * *


Biba's is located in an odd location - Capitol Mall and nearly Business 80 (the now named Capital City Freeway), right across the street from the RT bus wash, in the "Old Tavern." We arrived 15 minutes early for a 6:15 reservation, but they had just opened for the dinner crowd, so there was no problem accomodating us. The tables were a little tightly compacted, but formal, with stiff white starched tablecloths and tall leafy potted plants. In the window was a slightly distracted pink neon cursive "Biba" sign.

Our waiter was formally dressed, with a clean white towel draped on his arm, in case we should want some wine. We opted for the cursory glasses of Coke and then struggled through the menu. There wasn't an endless amount of choices, but EVERYTHING sounded good. We needed to choose between appetizers, pasta dishes, and main courses. Did we want to sample each one? Prices were a little prohibitive for this! We finally decided on the Rabbit with Grilled Polenta appetizer (which we had heard so much about), I would have the Lamb Medallions, and J would have the Quail. The service was prompt and well-presented. The appetizer was of substantial size (but should be for the price) and was elegantly presented, with even amounts of sauce and evenly grilled crisp diamonds of corn polenta. The rabbit was a little on the tough side and tastes like spicy chicken.

The restaurant is now completely full and bustling, but we do not feel ignored. Our water glasses are constantly being filled and the server assures us that there will not be much of a wait for our main courses, but we have not been waiting too long. We entertain ourselves by looking at food at other tables, and then who makes an appearance, but Biba Caggiano herself! She always makes the most delicious Italian fare on TV. How exciting!

I have noticed that when the food is excellently prepared, cooked, and presented, I resort to clichés. Here is one of those instances: the food is poetry on a plate. The presentation of the lamb medallions was simply wonderful - there were 4 large chunks of lamb, still attached to the bone, carefully criss-crossed across a pool of sauce with four diamonds of grilled polenta, and artistic, lightly sauteed vegetables on the side. The medallions appeared to be on the small side, but were deceptively filling. J's quail was equally well-presented - also with polenta, and also a perfectly pureed squash/potato combination. The quail was tender and light and came smoothly off the bone.

So, now it's about 7:15. There is an event starting at the Sacramento Community Center at 8. I'm a little concerned about getting there before it starts. Still Biba's has been a real treat, and we don't really want to pass on dessert. Our waiter assures us that he can bring us our doggie bags, bill and dessert in one swift movement. We demure and order 2 rather expensive desserts - Zuppa d'Inglese and the rich Italian (ever since Sleepless in Seattle) standard, Tiramisu.

In about 3 minutes, true to his word; the bags, the bill and the DESSERT appeared. Both desserts were poetry on a plate (again) and HUGE! The Zuppa was two kinds of thick cremes - a smooth chocolate one and an irresistible Grand Marnier Creme in a sea of raspberry sauce. The tiramisu was about 64 cubic centimeters, artery clogging, and one step short of nirvana.

The only downside to Biba's is the price. Even for lunch, only a couple of entrees is going to run $30-40 a couple, and you definitely want to try the appetizers, their famous gnocchi and their divine desserts. Thus, a trip to Biba's must be reserved for a very special occasion, but at Biba's, it WILL be VERY special!


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