THE EUROPEAN or Dover sole is one of the most delicate fish that can appear on a gourmet's table. It has no equal. ( In The nearest American approximations are the small flounders, grey and lemon sole, dab, winter flounder, and yellowtail. The culinary préparation for these is the same as for European sole.) In most markets, the whole fish will be prepared for you, or filletted, as you prefer. Whole sole are always cooked skinned.

Always cook the fish in a pan large enough for it to lie flat on the bottom. Cover it with CONCENTRATED FISH STOCK or with COURT-BOUILLON FOR FISH . The liquid should be cool when the fish is placed in it.

Bring the liquid to a point just below the boil; it should quiver but not actually bubble. When it is done, remove the fish to a wooden board and, with a very sharp knife, cut away the small bones all around the edge. Transfer the fish to a lightly buttered warm serving platter and keep it warm while its sauce is being prepared. Sole fillets may, of course, be cooked and served in the same manner as a whole fish.