It is the basis of many fine sauces and is usually the specialty of a highly trained chef. But there is no reason why the amateur cannot make it provided he is willing to devote the time and care that is required.

The result will be a jelly that adds to many dishes a rich and perfect flavor unequalled by any commercial substitute. Besides, this jelly keeps in perfect condition for quite a long time. Concentrated meat extracts sold in fine-foods stores can, of course, be used. But it stands to reason that one cannot expect to obtain with these products the flavor of the authentic recipe. It must also be remembered that commercial extracts are highly seasoned and that consequently they must be used sparingly in any dish to which they are added. (This difficulty is particularly evident in the commercial meat "extracts" and "glazes" that are most readily available in our stores. However, some specialty shops do carry glace de viande of high quality -salted, to be sure, but it is by all means the best product to use if you do not make your own. )

Below is the recipe used in our restaurant. Note that no salt is added to it. Anyone making this for home use may want to halve the ingrédients; the full recipe yields close to a quart of meat jelly. To store it, pour it while it is still warm into sterilized earthenware crocks or heavy glass jars, and let it cool completely before putting it in the refrigerator.

The making of the jelly has two phases: ( 1 ) making the stock and (2) reducing it to a jelly.




1 0- 1 1 pounds veal knuckles
10-11 pounds beef bones, including knuckles
3 pounds lean beef (preferably on a knuckle bone)
2 large onions
4 cloves
2 pounds large carrots
3 stalks celery
6 leeks
1/4 pound butter
1 pint tomato purée, or 3 pounds fresh tomatoes
Bouquet garni ( 1 sprig thyme, 1 bay leaf, 3 sprigs parsley)
16-17 quarts cold water Boiling water as needed


First phase:

ASK THE butcher to saw and pound the bones. More fresh meat (beef or veal, but never pork, mutton, or lamb) besides the beef already prescribed may be added to great advantage. Especially good are chicken or a hen, and beef or calves' feet, liver, and lights (all these must be washed thoroughly). Place the broken bones in a large shallow pan and cook them over a high flame or in a hot oven so that they will brown all over; stir them from time to time to prevent charring. This process contributes a fine flavor and seals in some of the albumen, lessening the amount of scum that will later form on the bouillon during the boiling.

Peel and halve the onions, sticking each half with a clove. Char the cut sides in a clean hot skillet. Wash the carrots, celery, and leeks, discarding most of the green parts of the leeks. Cut the vegetables into 2-inch pieces, and sauté them in the butter until they are gilded all over.

Put the browned bones, the fresh meat, and the vegetables, including the tomato purée or fresh tomatoes, in a 5- to 6-gallon kettle. Add the cold water, making sure that all the ingrédients are covered. Add the bouquet garni, tied with twine. Simmer all together for 4 hours, skimming the surface of the stock from time to time to remove the grey matter that will float to the top.

Here, allow us to make a suggestion. The lean meat is now removed and it may be served for a family meal in either of two ways: Served hot, it should be accompanied by freshly boiled potatoes or other vegetables and hot mustard; served cold, it should be sliced thin, arranged on a platter, surrounded with sliced cold boiled potatoes, sprinkled with chopped parsley, and sauced with a fine mayonnaise. A green salad or one of fresh tomatoes go very well with this.

With the lean pieces of meat removed, the bouillon should continue to simmer for 10 hours. The ten hours need not be continuous; four bouts one day and six the next may be more convenient. But it is important that the bouillon be allowed to cool completely before it is stored in the refrigerator in the interim. During the hours of simmering, two important steps must be taken: (1 ) There must be a careful and regular skimming of the surface of the stock, removing as much fat as possible; (2) the level of the liquid must be maintained at all times by adding boiling water periodically.


Second phase:

POUR THE liquid through a fine strainer into a smaller kettle, thus removing all bones and solid particles. Now boil down the bouillon over a moderately high flame, but, as it reduces, lower the heat gradually. And, as the volume of the liquid is reduced, it is also advisable to transfer it to progressively srnaller saucepans. It is to be reduced to approximately 1 quart.