bonneau.html

Introduction

Situated in the hamlet of Pernand-Vergelesses one can find the Domaine Bonneau du Martray after a little searching. Most of the view on Pernand is taken by the majestic hill of Corton, its famous vineyards stretching from east to south over the borders of Aloxe-Corton into Pernand.

The current owner, Comte Jean-Charles le Bault de la Moriniere, took over his father's estate in 1993, trading in a successful career as an architect in Paris to become a wine grower in Burgundy. Judging from the success with which he managed to take over the palmares of his father, he did not start from scratch. Many wine experts claim this Domaine is currently at the zenith of its fame and quality.

Comte Jean-Charles is both well qualified as a wine maker, and very open to critics. When I attended a Bonneau du Martray tasting in Amsterdam in June 1997 (see also under 'A few interesting tastings') that was hosted by him, I saw an open minded wine maker, carefully listening to remarks made by the audience, were they right or unjust. He took time to listen and explain and was in no way trying to only defend himself. An attitude that struck me in a very positive way, and it was once again confirmed during a visit at the Domaine, a few weeks later.

Information in this paragraph obtained from "The Great Domaines of Burgundy", by Remington Norman, Kyle Cathie Limited, London, second edition, 1996, page 125.

Tasting impressions

There is little doubt among the experts that Bonneau du Martray's Corton Charlemagne is among the very best of wines from this famous vineyard. The wine is powerful, loaded with the spicy terroir of the soil of this Grand Cru and still very refined in appearance. Bonneau du Martray succeeds in also making the white wine be a correct expression of the vintage, 1993 and 1989 maybe being the finest examples of the latter.

Much has also been said about the red Le Corton, and not all of it is positive. I consider my tasting experience of a mere three red vintages so far too small to contribute to this debate in any sensible way. What I would like to add is first that the Bonneau's Le Corton comes from the Charlemagne-parcels where they grow their white wine as well. The structure of this soil is much different from the soils more east facing, where the sort of Le Corton comes from that tasters always seem to expect: massive, stubborn and needing loads of time to develop. A Corton grown on lighter soil will inevitably give a lighter wine; one can hardly blame the owner for that.

Second: the 1993 Le Corton I tasted at the Domaine showed much improvement when compared to the 1988 and 1989 with respect to both backbone and complexity. The '88 and '89 did lack complexity...and complexity is a feature one tends and has a right to expect in a Grand Cru wine.. Another proof that Bonneau is back on the track with its Le Corton may be the excalamation marks their 1995 (a wine I have not tasted) received in the '98 edition of Bettane & Desseauves' "Le Classement des vins et domaines de France".

1995 Corton-Charlemagne

1994 Corton-Charlemagne

1993 Corton-Charlemagne

1993 Le Corton

1992 Corton-Charlemagne

1990 Corton-Charlemagne

1989 Corton-Charlemagne

1989 Le Corton

1988 Corton-Charlemagne

1988 Le Corton

1985 Corton-Charlemagne

Vineyard holdings
Vineyard	Status	Area (in ha)	Age of vines (years)
En Charlemagne	Grand Cru	4.50	48
Le Charlemagne (white)	Grand Cru	5.00	48
Le Charlemagne (red)	Grand Cru	1.50	48