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Introduction

This Alsace domaine is situated in Wintzenheim, Haut Rhin. In its modern being it was founded in 1959, but roots of the Humbrecht domaine date back to the early 1600's. It is currently run by Leonard Humbrecht and his son Olivier; the father being responsible for the vineyards and the son for the winemaking. Zind Humbrecht own some 30 hectares of choice vineyards, which form the basics of the staggering job this domaine does in creating Alsace wines that can rival any wine within their region, as well as many a wine outside of it.

The Humbrechts - rightly - claim that the geological diversity within the Alsace is at least as big as in the Burgundy (Cote d'Or). And one could say that they have made it their task of life to prove that to the world. It already shows when one enters the
beautifully designed tasting-room. Combined with pictures showing the exposure of their vineyards, samples are shown from the subsoils underneath. And what diversity! The Humbrechts also point out that it takes a severe reduction of yields to allow specific terroirs to express themselves in a wine. They believe the maximum yield should not exceed 35 hl/ha, while the double amount is not rarely harvested by the less conscientious producers. And in many a year one can read vintage reports giving figures of a mere 18 hl/ha harvested from certain vineyards.

The high quality of their vineyards, their severe reduction of yields, and Olivier's very skillful wine making together result in Alsace wines that are beautifully intense, well balanced and with a finish that resounds, both in length as in the expression of vineyard individuality. As so often, wines of this quality need time to develop, despite many of them being easily accesible already at young age.

Zind Humbrecht have furthermore started experimenting with planting Chardonnay grapes, in Hunawihr. Their Pinot d'Alsace contains Chardonnay, often a considerable amount. The Chardonnay wines are not issued as a separate varietal. The wine laws do not permit this.

Information in this paragraph obtained from "The Wines of Alsace", by Tom Stevenson, Faber and Faber Limited, London, first edition, 1993, page 476-477.

Technical information

The tending is done with vastly reduced use of sprays and herbicides. Low yields (35 hl/ha or less) are obtained by preferring old vines, reducing fertilisation and short pruning. Vinification takes place in modernly equipped cellars in Wintzenheim. Olivier Humbrecht leaves the fermentation totally to itself though, and whenever visiting their cellars, the soft bubbling of still fermenting wines can be heard. Heat exchangers are sometimes used to avoid temperatures rising too high, average temperatures being around 22-24 centigrades. The wines are fermented in old wooden casks,

alsace wines do not really improve with strong influence of wood. Avoiding the wines to go through malolactic fermentation is somewhat 'holy' in the Alsace. Most of the alsatian grape varieties have low acidity, that would be further reduced by the 'malo'. Humbrecht however does never block it, although it is not preferred that wines go through malolactic fermentation.

The wines are usually ready for release after 13-14 months, the sweet wines often taking considerably longer.

Tasting impressions

What does all this fine work lead to? I would say towines that are almost identifiable on colour only. Especially the crystal clear clarity of the colour is often striking. The wines are always deep golden yellow, even with the 'lesser' wines.

Although there is of course a wide variety of tastes in the many wines offered, a general asset of all wines would be that they have a beautifully sharp definition of taste and flavour. Maybe it's comparable (in impression, not the taste itself) with the 'smack on' sharp definition of a good Puligny-Montrachet. It's etched, precise, subtly detailed, free of blurry elements. Zind Humbrecht's wines offer a comparable sensation. They taste classy and stylishly refined.

Comparative impressions of some tasting at the domaine, as well as some comparative notes of tastings with Vinteresse appear under 'A few interesting tastings'.

In the third column you will find individually specified notes on Zind Humbrecht wines I have tasted.

1996 Pinot d'Alsace

1995 Riesling Herrenweg

1995 Riesling Gueberschwihr

1995 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg

1995 Tokay Clos St. Urbain

1994 Riesling Clos St. Urbain

1994 Riesling Brand

1994 Gewurztraminer Hengst

1994 Gewurztraminer Goldert

1993 Tokay Clos Windsbuhl

1992 Riesling Brand

1992 Gewurztraminer Hengst

1992 Gewurztraminer Goldert

1991 Tokay Clos Jebsal SGN

1989 Gewurztraminer Goldert VT

Vineyard holdings
Vineyard	Status	Area (in ha)
Rangen de Thann (Thann)	Grand Cru	4,2
Goldert (Gueberschwihr)	Grand Cru	0,6
Brand (Turckheim)	Grand Cru	1,4
Hengst (Wintzenheim)	Grand Cru	1,4
Other vineyards Turckheim	Villages	13,6
Other vineyards Wintzenheim	Villages	6,2
Other vineyards Gueberschwihr, Hattstatt, Pfaffenheim	Villages	2,6

Grape varieties	Area (ha)
Sylvaner	1,8
Pinot Blanc & Auxerrois	2,7
Riesling	9,0
Geuwurztraminer	10,2
Muscat Ottonel	1,4
Muscat a Petits Grains	0,4
Tokay Pinot Gris	2,7
Pinot Noir	1,8