CULINARY HISTORY
History of Chef Whites

The following is a chronological frame of events throughout history that have a direct or indirect influence on food, wine and related topics.

Where, when and how the Chef uniform developed

The chefs uniform; from the hat, necktie, double-breasted jacket and checked trousers to the apron is recognisable throughout the world and for the most part has developed out of necessity. Often taken for granted and now being designed also for fashion rather than function, the origin and reason behind the style and design of traditional chef’s uniform is a very interesting one. Some based in legend rather than fact; which is which is hard to define, so what is written here is what I have been able to uncover and should be read as interesting information rather than hard facts.

Tradition Versus fashion

Let me say from the start, I admit to being more the traditionalist when it comes to our proud uniform. Crisp, starched white’s with the exception of my black dress pants, worn simply to distinguish me as the ‘Chef’.

This last decade has seen many young chefs and cooks have started to wear non-traditional funky attire. From baggy ‘disco’ pants, denim and black jackets to patterned outfits with chilli peppers, flowers, herbs and even Elvis! All leave me a little exasperated, and to me make them look more like a circus clown. They may be able to cook like the devil, but is there any need to dress like him?

Of course this is nothing new; “what comes around goes around” they say, fashions these days seem to be just re-inventions of old styles and this is just as true with these ‘modern’ chef uniforms. Where as in fact the late chef-philanthropist Alexis Soyer, author, inventor and one time chef of the Reform Club in London was known to have his entire wardrobe—including his work attire—tailor made. he normally wore a red velvet beret; his jackets were often cut on the bias with extra large lapels and cuffs. This he apparently called "à la zoug-zoug," style and the more his contemporaries ridiculed him the more outlandish his outfits became.

There was an interesting ‘incident’ here in New Zealand a few ago at the annual Chef’s Association Ball. The partners wore their ball gowns and suits, while most of the chef’s wore their chef’s whites; well black pants, jacket and necktie that is. Crisp and starched these were what we refer to as our dress uniform and only worn for special occasions as this. After the ball a debate broke out over it, with many younger chef’s ‘poo-pooing’ the idea of going to such an event in their uniform. If you wear chilli pants and a denim jacket, I wouldn’t either……..but lets face it; what could look smarter than a ‘true’ chef’s uniform and not too far removed from a Tuxedo in design! The funny thing was the very next year, there were very few chef’s not wearing their uniform with pride.

But just what are the origins of the chef uniform or chef "whites" as we call them? And how have they developed over time? Remembering like any clothing, uniform and fashion they have developed over time, like the pictures to the left demonstarte.

In the middle 1800’s chef Marie-Antoine Carême redesigned the uniforms. Carême thought the colour white more appropriate, that it denoted cleanliness in the kitchen; it was also at this time that it is thought that chefs staff began to wear double-breasted jackets.

The Chef of Kings and King of Chefs; Escoffier too, thought the cleanliness etc of the uniform was very important and that it promoted professionalism. His staff was required to maintain clean and complete uniforms while on the job, and were even apparently encouraged to wear coats and ties while not at work.

The Jacket

The jacket is firstly double-breasted so it can easily be reversed to hide stains. The double layer of cotton also protects the wearer against the intense heat and any spillage’s. Of course it should also be made of a non flammable material like cotton.

The Necktie

Neckties are worn primerily to soak sweat while working in very hot kitchens; to prevent the sweat from the back of the head running down the back to the kidney area. But originally cotton cloths were just draped around the Chef's neck to soak up body sweat while working in the inferno-like kitchens of yesteryear.

They are normally folded from a triangle of cloth, which can also act as a bandage, tourniquet or sling in case of accidents. Which when working with sharp knives, hot items etc are a reality of the kitchen. Today, neckerchiefs are sometimes worn for purely for aesthetic purposes, to give uniforms a more finished look and are maybe just a strip of sewn cloth.

The Hat

The traditional hat or torque is probably the most distinguishing and recognisable of the our uniform and probably also causes the most debate. Chefs as far back as the 16th century are said to have worn them. One story has it that it originated in the old kitchens of castles and fine restaurants of Europe, there were no ventilation systems as we know them. The condensation and grease accumulated thick and heavy on the ceilings. To protect the top of the head from falling grease, the chefs would have the housekeepers starch up old sections of sheets. The sections were then wrapped and formed into a tall cylinder shape with a pouch at the top. Cloths and rags were also placed inside to buffer the absorbed falling grease.

Another story has it that when a royal cook in the employ of King Henry VIII started going bald. Henry found a hair in his soup, had the cook beheaded, and ordered the next Chef to start wearing a hat.

Some say it can be traced to the 7th century, when Chefs were considered learned men. Learned men were often persecuted and often took refuge in the local church, donning clergy costumes, including hats, as a disguise. Not wanting to incur the wrath of God, they started wearing white hats instead of the black hats worn by Greek Orthodox priests.

Along similar lines it said that when the Catholic’s were persecuted in the UK during the reign of Henry 8th, the catholic priests went into hiding. Many of them finding work in kitchens, so as to retain some link with their beliefs they took to wearing hats based on the Bishop’s mitre.

Another has it they come from the ancient Assyrians. Since one of the more common ways to assassinate anyone was to poison their food, Chefs were chosen carefully and for the most part treated very well, often holding rank in the King's court. Legend has it that the Chef's high position entitled him to wear a "crown" of sorts, in the same shape as the king's, though made out of cloth. The crown-shaped ribs of the royal head dress became the pleats of the Torque, originally sewn and later stiffened with starch. Of the pleats, the most widely circulated legend about the hat appears to be one concerning the number of pleats. It was regarded that any Chef, worthy of the name, could cook an egg at least one hundred ways; therefore the hat should have one hundred pleats said to represent this .

Antoine Carême, the famous chef of the 18th / 19th century thought that the hats should be different sizes, to distinguish the cooks from the chefs and this is still the case today in large hotels. The chefs wore the tall hats and the younger cooks wore shorter hats similar to a skull cap. Carême himself supposedly wore a hat that was 18 inches tall!

The trousers

From a variety of colours to the eventual white of Carême. While white is still vary popular, mainly by bakers the most popular standard wear in trousers is the with blue and white or black and white checks.

This pattern is called called hound’s tooth or herringbone. I have not yet been able to determine when and where these came into ‘fashion’, but the pattern is designed to help camouflage any minor spills and soiling on them.

The apron