One of the treasures of the Belgian brewing industry is found in the city of Roeselare, the Brouwerij Rodenbach. My journey into Rodenbach's rich 150 year history began in their warm reception room, whose walls are lined with photos and breweriana depicting that history. I was soon greeted by my guide, Mr. Eric Deseure, and he began to tell the tale of Rodenbach.
The Rodenbach family figures prominently in the region's history. It all began with Ferdinand Rodenbach, a celebrated military surgeon and somewhat of a medical researcher. In 1750, he moved to Roeselare from Andernach, which was part of the Austrian Empire. Ferdinand was not a brewer, and a full two generations passed before the family's interests turned to brewing. In 1820, a small brewery on Spanjestraat was purchased by Alexander Rodenbach, a most remarkable individual. Blinded by a shooting accident at age 11, Alexander developed a "written" language, similar in concept to Braille. In addition to being a brewer, Alexander was a member of the National Congress and supporter of the Belgian independence movement. His political activities must have kept him too busy to devote much attention to the brewery, for it was closed in early 1836.
Later that same year, the brewery was purchased by Regina Wauters, the wife of Pedro Rodenbach. The present day brewery took this date as the basis for its 150th anniversary celebration in 1986. After Regina and Pedro, the brewery passed into the hands of Eduard Rodenbach, and then to Eugene Rodenbach, who was to have a substantial impact on the brewery's success. Eugene traveled to England to study the latest production and blending techniques for top fermented beers. The knowledge he gained there helped ensure the quality and consistency of Rodenbach beers, and propelled the brewery into an era of rapid growth and prosperity. This growth eventually leveled off, and in recent years the brewery's output has fluctuated around 100,000 hl/year (84,000 bbl).
Much of today's brewery is typical of any European facility. The all copper traditional brewhouse, and modern kegging and bottling lines are similar to breweries all over the continent. There are a couple of features, however, which are uniquely Rodenbach.
No longer in use, the original malthouse is one such feature. It's an imposing cylindrical tower made of brick with a conical top, which was built in 1864. The vaulted ceilings of the interior sweep upward at an impossible angle. During construction, the entire structure was filled with sand, which was then properly formed and used as a foundation for the brickwork. After the mortar was set, the doors were opened and the sand shoveled out to reveal the tower's interior. At the center is a large kiln which cured the malt resting on several levels of screens above. The kiln's fires made it an exceedingly hot place to work, and for this reason there is a bell on the interior wall. Once an hour the bell was rung, signaling "Rodenbach Time".
Another outstanding feature of the brewery is its vast array of enormous oak barrels. They range in size from 10,000 to 65,000 liters, and are held together exclusively by wooden pegs and exterior metal hoops. Reeds are used to seal the cracks. Nails are disallowed because the beer's acidity would dissolve the metal, thereby ruining the beer. There are nearly 300 of these venerable vessels, with a total capacity of 10 million liters. Their maintenance requires the employment of two full-time coopers. Strict adherence to such traditional methods is one reason why Rodenbach beers are so expensive to produce.
There are two different worts brewed, one at 11o P and the other at 13o P. At least 80% of the mash is malt, and the remainder is corn, which is an unusual adjunct in Belgium. Yeast is pitched into open copper vessels, but the wort remains there only during the lag phase. Once fermentation begins, the active wort is transferred to closed rectangular tanks, primarily to facilitate easy removal of CO2 from the cramped fermentation rooms. Primary fermentation lasts for seven days. After primary is completed, the brewery has large amounts of yeast slurry to dispose of. The latest analysis from the University of Leuven identifies 22 different strains of yeasts and bacteria. They have been brewing with the same yeast from the beginning, without reculturing. Thus Rodenbach's yeast and resultant beers are constantly evolving. The brewery generates about 150 liters of yeast slurry per day, which is sold locally for about $0.55 per liter. It is typically used as a nutritional supplement for livestock - one gentleman actually claimed that it made his horse run faster!
Up to primary fermentation, two worts receive identical treatment, but after primary they are handled differently. The 13o wort is aged for 20-24 months in the oak barrels, while the 11o wort spends 5-6 weeks in stainless steel. Classic Rodenbach is produced by blending 75% of the 11o brew , with 25% of the two-year-old 13o brew. The aged, unblended 13o beer is bottled straight as Rodenbach Grand Cru, or dosed with cherry extract to become the desert beer, Alexander. All of Rodenbach's beers have an acidic tartness, which comes from the presence of Lactobacillus strains in their yeast. This gives them a refreshing character and fresh taste, despite their extended aging period.
The Rodenbach brewery holds a unique position in the brewing world. It's an excellent example of rich brewing heritage that has remained intact in the modern age. In Belgium, the market for most sour beers is shrinking, and therefore the export market is crucial to the brewery's survival. It is hoped that the growing number of beer connoisseurs in the US will warm up to these living artifacts of Belgian brewing heritage.