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The SE Asia tour

This is a verbatim record of the emails I dispatched from various internet cafes around SE Asia from April to June 2000.

24 April 2000: Bangkok

 

Sorry it's been so long since I started writing from South East Asia. Anyway, Samantha and I are now in Bangkok. It's very noisy, smelly and dirty and full of traffic - all the time. Still, it's got a vibe.

After arriving in Kuala Lumpur, we spent 3 nights in the city, just wandering around. It's bloody hot (about 30 degrees (85F) day and night) and humid - all the time. You wouldn't miss anything, shopping-wise, if you were coming from London. They have it all - Gucci, Armani shops; you name it. It's a pretty small city but you soon run out of things to do. The night markets are fun. Very crowded and all the fake designer stuff you want, including software. Windows 2000 on CD for 2 pounds anyone? We both bought Sarongs which have turned out to be very useful. They can be used for everything from nightwear to towels to beach mats to tablecloths (not yet tried).

After that we took a bus to Kuala Lipis in the centre. It's full of jungles and all that. We couldn’t really be bothered in the end, so took a train to Kota Bahru on the north east coast of (peninsular) Malaysia.

From there we got a slow (and noisy) boat ride to the Perhentian Islands, where we stayed in a little chalet at a place called Mama's. Our 5 days there gave us a bit of colour. The weather was mixed. We saw some pretty impressive electrical storms though. After that we took an overnight bus to the old trading island of Penang. We spent two days there just wandering around (again). The view from the top of the hill (820 metres) was good.

The Malaysians and the Thais seem like nations of traders. Everything is negotiable and there are little commissions and deals everywhere. Everything seems to be open until midnight and it rarely stops. There are lots of excellent little hawkers food stalls which sell fresh food (cooked for you) everywhere too. We kind of wondered who was buying all this stuff as everyone seemed to be some kind of small trader. Perhaps they just buy off each other in quiet moments. Kind of reminded me of "Socialist Worker" sellers.

From there we took the train to KL again and flew out to Bangkok, which turned out to be even hotter. I'm not complaining though. Bangkok is a huge city. We're staying nearish to the (in)famous Khao San Road. It's way too much like Camden High Road on a sunny Sunday afternoon though. Hardly any Thais. Everyone's got tattoos and tie-died trousers and eats banana pancakes. Depressing really. We came to get away from all that. Still we'll give the deep fried maggots and cockroaches a miss. That's one type of 'farang' (a Westerner) you get here.

The other is a very seedy looking fat bloke with short hair and a moustache. No prizes for guessing what they are here for. We've seen dozens of couples that consist of a farang and a Thai woman, but not one single couple the other way around. It's sad and makes me a little ashamed to be a Westerner. I'm not sure why the Thai women do it. There's obviously a fair amount of dosh in Bangkok. Plenty of Jags and Mercs and real designer shops around.

Anyway, next is dealing with the various embassies to try and get visas for Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Vietnam looks like fun. Usual Communist style helpfulness and efficiency. Tonight we're off to the Oriental Hotel for drinks and maybe some food as it's my 31st birthday. It's the Raffles Hotel of Bangkok. We're also doing some river-boating and probably excursions to Kanchanaburi (Bridge over the River Kwai) and Sukothai and Ayuthaya. It wasn't exactly Hemingway but that's our adventures so far. Hope you are all well.

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