Moscow Journey
Part 1
Twelve days in Moscow, from April 17 to 29, 1998 may not seem much time but here in Russia such a timeframe may see a change of seasons, perhaps a change of government. Arriving ten days ago, there was snow on the ground from a late storm a week previously. It was cold, wet and very gray. Much like I left it back in early December, some five months earlier. The long, cold miserable winter didn't want to let go. It persisted that way for several days; it rained, it was cloudy and cold. Then suddenly it was warm and sunny. Remnants of the snow scattered among the many trees in woody areas around the city were still melting. They created wet rivulets and small pools of muddy mayhem for unwary feet. First it was spring, then summer in Moscow. The last few days it was very warm, 15 to 17 Centigrade;
bright sun and quite humid. A typical summer day in these parts.
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Patriotic Sculpture in the Moscow Metro
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People changed clothes from long leather, wool or fur coats
and hats to summer ware. Young ladies in miniskirts and short shorts with dark stockings paraded provocatively on city streets. Elegant dresses and summer smiles surrounded me in the Metro. And while this was happening there was a new, young Prime Minister appointed, accepted by the most marginal of parliamentary votes. Locally the sentiment was apathy and a
decided lack of enthusiasm. This man they said was a puppet of the new Tzar Yeltsin. Perhaps times have changed politically. Perhaps! But politics the world over is a dreary topic these days. Corrupt politicians are everywhere in the world, at home and abroad. So I will not dwell on this boring topic but rather attempt to paint a picture of Moscow to delight your senses.
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Springtime in Moscow
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Moscow is a large city of over nine million people. At first sight it seems disorganized, unruly, lacking glamor. Of course,
there is Red Square and the Kremlin. They are magical in their history and architecture. The square is cobbled and uneven to the feet, centuries old in construction. Worn down by parades and revolutions. St. Basil's Cathedral at one end of Red Square is the original fairyland castle. It is easy to imagine princes and princesses living here. But beyond the square is the hustle and bustle of a very busy world. The streets are full of cars and trucks driven furiously in wild confusion. Pollution belches from exhausts and the air is pungent with gasoline fumes.
But underneath the city of noise and smoke is another more
surrealistic world. A subterranean complex of tunnels and people's palaces: the Moscow Metro. A monument to a Bolshevik Revolution. Its construction began in the 1930s and continues today. The main stations of this massive underground railway system are indeed spacious, serene, majestic palaces. Marble floors and walls, mosaic art in the ceilings and walls greet the adventurer. Massive chandeliers in long lines, underground
hallways stretching seemingly to infinity, palatial palaces of Art Deco stylishness: all are here for the commuter. Relief is everywhere from the tedium and toil in fine art panoramas, sculptures and mosaic pictures of patriotic themes. Fascination is ever present for the curious visitor with time to study and marvel at great art dedicated to the likes of Pushkin, Stalin and, of course, Lenin. Mosaics to pioneers, workers, soldiers,
sailors, airmen are everywhere. Dedications to victories and achievements abound. Snatches of Soviet history in Art Deco grandeur are around every corner. All this great art for two rubles (thirty cents) and a plastic token, key to an underground fantasy land. Cheap at any price wouldn't you say. This other subterranean world carries you to multifaceted destinations: the Kremlin, the Pushkin and Tretyakov Art Galleries, Bolshoi Theater, the Arbat shopping street, GUM, Moscow State University on Sparrow Hill, All Russian Exhibition Center. All are available via the Moscow Metro.
April 29, 1998
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Mosaic in the Metro--Lenin
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Agronomists
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