Some novice exhibitors are unsure about what to expect at a cavy Show and what is expected of them, so this article has been written primarily with them in mind. Each Club's Show Rules will list some of the basic requirements and a copy will usually be on display somewhere at the Show venue - they may also be distributed to exhibitors, along with the Show schedule and entry form, etc. Our Club's Show Rules may differ somewhat to other Clubs, but in many ways they will be similar to other cavy Clubs all around the world. (I use capital "S" for Shows where there is an official Judge presiding, working to a set of standards - shows designed especially for pet guinea pigs are far less demanding!)

IDEAS FOR A SHOW KIT: highlighter/s; pen/s; tweezers; nail clippers; wet cloth/ baby wipes; cotton balls/ buds; Eucalyptus oil; water in a spray bottle (to maximise curl in curly-coats); hairdryer, brushes/ combs (depending on the breed); toothbrush (for Abysinnians & cresteds) and a grooming mit (to smooth and gloss most shorthair coats).

ENTRIES: Remember to get your entries to the Show Secretary by the nominated closing date so they can be catalogued. "Pet" entries can possibly be left until Show day, but even they are best done beforehand to save extra paperwork and subsequent delays at the Show.

CONDITION: Some preparation needs to be done well before the Show - it's important to keep all your animals well fed and healthy, and in full length coat if they are longhair varieties. This way, they can be in the best possible condition to compete fairly against other animals of equal quality.

SEPARATION: Show sows should be kept away from boars so that they don't fall pregnant and get disqualified at the Show. Show boars are best housed away from other boars so they don't get fight- related damage that will affect their Show potential. Longhairs may need to be housed separately to avoid the possibility of having their coat chewed by a cagemate.

TRAINING: Show animals should be trained to sit still on their carpet squares. This is a more natural position for some animals than others and it may even become a point on which your final selection of Show animals is based - a frisky Abysinnian or a fidgety longhair will drive you to distraction if it keeps moving around on the show board after you've "set it up" ready for the Judge.

GROOMING: General grooming is an important part of Show preparation, even for pets. For shorthairs, the long, thick "guard hairs" which make the coat feel coarse should be removed to give a more even, silky smooth coat. These can be plucked out using a rolling motion of the thumb and fingers over each area of the animal, most importantly on the back/ rump area but also on the head and belly too. Long/ sharp nails also need to be clipped, so that they don't scratch the Judge when it is their turn to be picked up for close inspection.
The grease gland around the animal's tailbone may need to be cleaned, especially if there is a waxy build-up - this can be done easily with detergent/ Eucalyptus oil. Dirty ears and scrotal area may also need to be given the same special attention to get rid of a build-up of grime, etc. The animals should then be given a warm bath using a mild shampoo (and possibly conditioner, especially for longhairs) and then dried thoroughly so they don't get a chill. (If they have any running lice in their coat they should be washed using a special insecticidal shampoo/ dip before the Show, because if a Judge finds any live lice on your animal, it will no doubt be disqualified!)
Some pedigree breeds will need to have "foreign" hairs plucked out i.e. odd-coloured hairs on self-coloured animals and solid-coloured hairs in the agouti's ticked coats. Agouti's often have a masking of dark guard hairs along the bridge of their nose that will need to be removed to make the ticking look more even. Marked animals like Dalmatians, roans, etc. will need to have their areas of colour tidied up to make them look as close to the standard as possible (without leaving any bald patches!!!)

SHOW CAGES: On Show day pack up your Show animals in suitable carry cages - preferably ones that are big enough to allow the animals some movement and have adequate insulation/ ventilation (depending on the weather). Bedding will depend on the breed - wood shavings/ hay works well for some, but can make a bit of a mess in the coat of a rex/ longhair - a wood shavings base with plastic mesh on top will probably work better for these breeds, with some toweling cloths added for extra comfort if necessary.

SUSTENENCE: Pack some food and water for the animals to eat/ drink while they are away from their home. It helps them maintain their condition and helps to keep them relaxed. Be careful not to overfeed them, though, as this can create a problem with "poo-y paws". High water content foods like celery and cucumber work well - bright coloured food like beets/ carrots can stain around their mouth and are worth avoiding if possible.

SHOW SECRETARY: When you arrive at the Show venue, see the Show Secretary for your catalogue and pay for your entry fees if you haven't already done so. Notify the Show Secretary if any of your animals need to be "scratched" from the catalogue, so the Show Steward's copy can up-to-date before the Show starts.

I.D. NUMBERS: Secure the numbered stickers/ tags that you are given securely onto the animal's ear lobe. These should be kept on throughout the Show as it is the main reference point for the Show Steward and Judge.

CATALOGUE: Check that your animals have been entered correctly in the catalogue ("guinealogue") and tell the Show Secretary/ Steward before the Show starts if there are any important errors that need to be rectified. A highlighting marker can come in handy to make your entries stand out in their respective sections and when the Show is in full swing this can help you identify what animal/s you need to be getting ready next.

SHOW PROGRESS: Keep an eye on the catalogue and have your animals ready when the Show Steward calls them up - it can help the Show to run as smoothly as possible if everyone has their animals ready. There may be some difficulties if there is more than one judging table in operation at the same time, if you have more than one animal in a class or if you have animals to take to the Judge in one class straight after another, so you may have to have ask someone else to help you take your animals up to the table if this is the case - there's sure to be someone around with enough free time to help you out!

FINAL CHECK: Before you take your animal up to be judged, check their feet and rump and give them a final clean if necessary. Check for knots, etc. in longhairs' coats and remove them. Choose a carpet square in a colour that will suit your animal if possible. A sheet of "grip" material between the carpet square and showboard can help keep everything in place.

AT THE JUDGING TABLE: When you get to the Table, present your animal to give its best effect i.e. to show off it's big shoulder and cobby body. Once it is sitting in place, stand back so the Judge can see it at its best. Keep an eye on the animal and be prepared to come to the rescue should it run off the carpet (usually a case of backing up to "relieve itself") or want to get friendly/ fighty with the animal next to it. If there should ever be a fight on the table (and I can't remember ever seeing one) put a show board between the two animals, not your hand, as you could get bitten by accident.

RE-CALLS: If you get a first place in preliminary judging, be prepared to bring the animal back for an "in-breed", "in-group" or maybe even "in-show" placing later on.

RECORDS: When you get a prize card, write the winner's details on the card as soon as possible - it can be a nightmare trying to remember "who won what" later in the day, especially if you have lots of animals entered! Get the Judge to sign any cards that may be required to confirm awards in the future e.g. "Best of Breed" cards that are used for calculating Champion points.