GENERAL INFORMATION: Cavies (as they are known by many/ most fanciers - based on their scientific name cavia porcellus) or guinea pigs (as they are more commonly known) have been domesticated for centuries and make ideal low-cost, low-maintenance pets. They are usually social creatures and enjoy company, especially their own species. They may seem timid initially, but with gentle handling and the right housing, they usually tame down well and become "one of the family", in much the same way as a cat or dog. There are many breeds and their coats come in a large range of colours, textures, cresting/ rosetting and lengths. An incredible number of standard varieties have been bred into pedigreed lines over the years and many of these breeds are found locally in a number of registered cavy studs. Breeds include Abysinnians, agoutis, Alpacas, Argentes, brindles, coronets, cresteds, Dalmatians, Dutches, English selfs (shorthairs), Himalayans, Peruvians, rex, roans, sables, satins, Sheba Mini-Yaks, shelties, texels, tortoiseshell (and whites) and more!

HOUSING: Guinea pigs are traditionally kept in secure 'wood & wire' grass hutches, where they can live protected from predators like cats, dogs, hawks and snakes and have ready access to their food supply. This kind of hutch should have a roofed area to protect them from the elements and a walled-in section where they can hide from predators, etc. - try not to make too much hiding space, though, as this may encourage them to become more timid with humans, too. An elevated floor area is also a good idea, as this will help keep them dry when it rains and reduce the chance of them getting wet and developing pneumonia. In winter a supply of hay or a box to sleep in will help to keep them warm; in summer you will need to make sure the hutch has enough insulation and ventilation to keep them cool. Grass hutches need to be moved regularly so that the animals don't eat the grass down to the roots and leave you with bare patches in your yard! As an alternative to grass hutches, you can keep guinea pigs in hutches up off the ground. These will need to have bedding material of some kind which will require changing regularly (at least weekly, probably.) Suitable bedding materials include untreated wood shavings/ rice hulls and/ or hay as a base - sheets of newspaper can be also be used underneath the bedding material to absorb some of the moisture and make cleaning easier as well.

FOOD & WATER:Guinea pigs are vegetarians and will eat most grasses, fruit & vegetables, although there are some plants that can be dangerous (e.g. oxalis, plants that exude milky sap, rhubarb, onions, even some potatoes) so it is best to err on the side of caution if you are unsure. Fruit & vege' peelings from the kitchen make ideal tidbits so long as they are fresh & clean, but leftover fresh food shouldn't be left in the animal's cage for too long. Most animals will enjoy apple, capsicum, carrot, celery, cucumber, lettuce, melon, pumpkin & tomato, but individual animals will have their own preferences and it won't take long before you work out your own animal's favourite foods. Special dry food pellets/ mixes can be bought for guinea pigs from supermarkets, pet shops and produce stores to help provide a well-balanced diet. Lucerne hay/ chaff is good food value. Hay is also a valuable addition handy to the hutch as it can be eaten as roughage and provides an ideal chewing material to help keep their teeth trimmed down. It is essential that guinea pigs get a regular intake of Vitamin C, so they should get fresh fruit/ veges/ grass every day to avoid the possibility of getting Vitamin C deficiency diseases/ related problems. A supply of cool,fresh water should be available at all times, especially for animals that are not living in a grass hutch. It is best kept in a water bottle with a metal drip feeder as open bowls tend to get dirtied/ spilt. The water bottle should be kept in a shaded spot and replenished regularly. (During hot weather, the water will probably become quite warm after a while, so the bottle should be refilled often with cool tap water so the animals will drink it - otherwise you may have problems with dehydration and heat exhaustion!)

HEALTH CARE: Guinea pigs can live for many years if they are well cared for and are usually easy to keep happy and healthy. It is probably better to emphasise prevention rather than cure - good clean housing, a well balanced diet, bathing in a mild insecticidal shampoo/ dip from time to time and suitable company can all help to reduce the stresses on a guinea pig's life. Hair loss is a fairly common problem. Depending on the cause it can be cleared up by dusting them in flea powder that is suitable for kittens or bathing them in a pyrethrin-based shampoo/ a Maldison-based dip diluted down to birds' concentration. A dose of anti-parasitic solution like Ivomectin (Ivomec) may also help eradicate the cause of the problem (e.g. mites). Overgrown toenails can cause foot injuries/ inflict damage - to prevent this, they can be trimmed back carefully, using toe-nail clippers. Overgrown teeth cause major problems as the animal is unable to chew properly until they are cut back. (This is a job for an expert!) Diahorrea can sometimes be a problem, sometimes caused by overfeeding greens. (especially lettuce). Human A.D.M. medicine can often help. Heat exhaustion is common in the peak heat of summer. If you find an animal lying listless in its cage and drooling, try swilling them around in a tepid (not cold) bath, give them some water to drink and place them near a fan to gradually revive. Eye damage caused by irritation/ minor trauma can usually be soothed and healed with golden eye ointment, available from chemists. Sores/ wounds/ rashes usually heal well using tea tree oil cream/ pawpaw ointment/ Vitamin E cream. As usual, your vet is the best-equipped person to consult for professional care and advice if you are concerned about your animal's health.

BREEDING: Guinea pigs become sexually mature at a month or two (females earlier than males), so should be segregated early to prevent unwanted pregnancies. Young animals should be a fair size themselves before they are used for breeding. Females are pregnant for ten weeks and deliver between one and four babies (rarely more), then have a post-partum 'heat' (which means that if the male is still in with them, they will probably fall pregnant the day they deliver their babies, so it's best to separate them before she gives birth; otherwise she will probably breed non-stop). The babies are born relatively mature and independent and will be able to eat solid food within hours of being born, but they also suckle off their mother for two or three weeks. It is important to determine the gender of any offspring and separate them at about three weeks of age if you want to control the number of animals in your care, as the young females can be fertile from about four weeks of age and come on 'heat' every couple of weeks from then on, so if she's still in with her father, she may become a very young mother! It pays to learn how to determine the gender of young animals and any experienced breeder will be able to show you the difference. Basically females have one main “Y”-shaped genital opening whereas males have two distinct openings (more like an “i”). Contrary to what some people say, guinea pigs do not change sex!