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PUPPY: TRAINING BASICS At what age can I start training my new puppy? You will be training your puppy from the moment you bring it home and start to house train. Puppies start learning from birth. Good breeders encourage handling and socialization from birth. Some training can begin as soon as the puppy can open its eyes and walk. Young puppies have short attention spans but expect them to begin to learn simple obedience commands such as ‘sit’, ‘down’ and ‘stay’, from as young as 7 to 8 weeks of age. Formal dog training has traditionally been delayed until 6 months of age. Actually this juvenile stage is a very poor time to start. The dog is beginning to solidify adult behavioral patterns, dominance behavior is beginning to emerge, and behaviors learned in puppyhood may need to be changed. When training is started at 7 to 8 weeks use methods that rely on positive reinforcement and gentle teaching. Puppies have short attention spans, so training sessions should be brief, but daily. Puppies can be taught to sit, down, and stand using a method called food-lure training. We use food treats to entice the dog to follow its nose into the proper positions for sit, down, stand, and stay. How do I get started using food lure training? Small pieces of food or a favored toy can be used to motivate your puppy to perform most tasks. Provided the reward is sufficiently appealing, the puppy can be prompted to get the desired response by showing the puppy the reward, giving a command, and moving it to get the desired response. For example, food held up over the puppy’s nose and moved slowly backwards should get a sit response; food drawn down to the floor should get a down response; food brought back up should get a stand response; food held out at a distance should get a come response; and food held at your thigh as you walk should get the puppy to heel or follow. By pairing a command phrase or word with each action, and giving the reward for each appropriate response, the puppy should soon learn the meaning of each command. How often should I give the command? Ideally you should give the command phrase once and then use your food to move the puppy into positions. Once the puppy has performed the task, add in verbal praise and an affectionate pat which are known as secondary reinforcers. Some trainers also use clickers as secondary reinforcers. If the puppy does not immediately obey on the first command, then you are likely proceeding a little too quickly. If you keep repeating the command, the puppy will learn that several repetitions are acceptable before it needs to obey. Keeping a leash attached can help to gain an immediate response if the puppy does not obey. Remember, early in training your puppy does not know the meaning of the word. Therefore you could just as easily teach your puppy to sit with the word bananas, (or sit in any other language) as you could with the word sit. The key is to associate the word, in this case "sit", with the action of placing the hind end on the floor. How should I phase out the lure and food rewards? At first you are going to let the puppy see the food in your hand so that you will have her attention and can use it to guide her into position. As your puppy begins to comply more readily, you can start to hide the food in your hand, but give the command and repeat the motion or signal that she has learned to follow. Soon the puppy will come to expect the treat each time she performs the task. Then, signal and give the command, but when she performs the task, reward only with praise and give the puppy an affectionate pat. Next, you can begin to vary the frequency, giving the "good dog" and perhaps patting each time, but giving the food randomly, perhaps every 3 or 4 times. In time, the puppy should respond to either the hand signal or the command Over time, the words "good dog" or the affectionate pat become secondary reinforcers. Because they have been paired with food in the past, they take on more meaning and become a reinforcement in themselves. It is important to use secondary reinforcement because you will not always have food with you when you need your pet to obey. In addition, if you rely on food to always get your puppy to comply, you will have a puppy that will only do the task when you have a treat. At first training may begin in designated sessions throughout the day, with a variety of family members. All rewards should be saved for these training sessions. Over time however, you should begin to ask your puppy to perform the tasks at other times. How much time should I spend training my puppy every day? You do not necessarily need to train in a set session daily. Rather, integrate these tasks throughout the day. A goal to strive for is at least 15 minutes of training every day. These can be short 5 minute sessions spread throughout the day. Try to have all family members ask your puppy to do these tasks. Remember to try and train in every room of your house. You want your puppy to sit, lie down and stay everywhere, not just in the training location. Use these training tasks as you integrate the puppy into your life. For example, ask your puppy to sit prior to receiving her food, sit before you let her in or out the door, and sit before you pet her. These are times when your puppy wants something and is more likely to comply. In this way you are training your dog all the time, throughout the day and also establishing yourself as the leader, the one who controls the resources. Training your puppy prior to getting each reward also helps to prevent problems. Having your puppy sit before getting a food or treat prevents begging, while teaching your dog to sit before opening the door can prevent jumping up or running out the door. Be creative. The time you spend training your puppy now will pay off when you have an adult dog. To have a well-trained dog, you need to be committed to reinforcing the training tasks on nearly a daily basis for the first year of your puppy’s life. The more you teach and supervise your puppy, the less opportunity she will have to engage in improper behaviors. Dogs do not train themselves, when left to choose their behavior they will act like dogs. What can be done if my puppy is too distracted or excitable to control? Training should begin in a quiet environment with few distractions. The reward chosen should be highly motivating so that the puppy is focused entirely on the trainer and the reward. Although a small food treat generally works best, a favorite toy or a special dog treat might be more appealing. It might also be helpful to train the puppy just before a scheduled mealtime when it is at its hungriest. For difficult puppies or headstrong puppies the best way to ensure that the puppy will perform the desired behavior and respond appropriately to the command is to leave a leash attached and to use a head collar for additional control. Should I also consider training classes? Pet owners who are novices at training can begin a training program with these few simple steps. It takes repetition, time and perseverance for the puppy to be able to predictably and reliably respond to commands in a variety of situations. The training class serves many functions. Of course trainers can demonstrate techniques and help guide you through the steps in training. They can help advise you on puppy training problems, and can help you advance your training to more difficult exercises. The puppy be learning in a group situation, with some real life distractions. And, considering human nature, the pet owner who takes his or her dog to a puppy class, will be forced to practice (do their homework) throughout the week, if they do not want to fall behind by the next class. A training class is a good place to meet and talk to other new puppy owners and see how all puppies behave. Training classes for young puppies are also an excellent way to socialize your new puppy to a variety of people, other dogs, and stimuli, in a controlled environment. In addition, you will learn how to prevent problems before they can begin, or deal with them as they emerge, rather than having to find a way to correct problems that have already developed. Your puppy might also make some new friends of the same age. You could then visit these friends (or vice versa) with your puppy for social play and exercise sessions. Since the primary socialization period for dogs ends by 3 months of age, puppy socialization classes are most valuable for puppies 8 weeks of age and older. If all puppies in the class have had initial vaccinations, are healthy and parasite free, the health risks are low and the potential benefits are enormous. Discuss when to start and the location of classes in your area with your veterinarian. |
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| Introduction Imagine this: You have just arrived home with your brand new puppy. It is the sweetest, most adorable puppy you have ever seen. Now it’s time for the reality check. Puppies need tons of care and attention. You must be completely available for your new lovable pup. Your free time is now devoted to your new puppy. Hopefully you’re still with me and haven’t given away your puppy yet. I am going to fill you in on how to properly crate train your puppy. Definitions "A crate is a portable 'kennel' that is just large enough to contain the dog it is intended for, made of either metal or plastic. 'Crating' is the practice of using this kennel for training purposes, usually in housetraining and house proofing a dog." (Moore) Many people feel that it is cruel to crate a puppy. Dogs have a natural denning instinct (Moore). That is why you will see many dogs sleeping under a table or a piece of furniture. The dogs need a safe area to call their own. Puppies learn from their mother that they should not soil their sleeping area. (Bohnenkamp) The Puppy's Arrival The puppy must have positive associations regarding the crate. The crate needs to be comfortable for the dog. When the puppy first arrives, have the crate ready with a blanket creating a warm, inviting environment. Don’t ever force the puppy into the crate. This is new to the puppy. He needs to explore this new place. Be sure to leave the crate door open so the dog can come in and out as it pleases. I find that it works well to use a small treat to lure the dog into the crate. When the dog first arrives do this several times so he begins to understand. Also when he is going in the crate I use the command "kennel up". Many other variations are acceptable. It is basically whatever you are comfortable with, but remember to be consistent. The Puppy's First Night The next big step is the first night. I play with the puppy until he's tired, make sure he has pottied outside and place the comfortable crate (with pad and towels etc.) on a chair or table right next to my bed where I can reach it while I'm still lying down. I place the puppy into the crate (possibly with a safe toy), go to bed and turn out the lights as usual. If the puppy whines, I place my fingers in the grate of the crate and talk softly to the puppy until he falls asleep. I may lose a little sleep that night and possibly the next but I will NOT open the door for the puppy for at least four hours. (I repeat: the puppy has successfully pottied just before this!). I do not get angry with the puppy or yell at him but I do not give in and let him out either. Usually he will fall asleep within an hour, less if he is tired. At eight weeks of age you cannot expect the puppy to go more than four hours without pottying (about-dogs). So, as soon as the puppy whines after waking up, have your sweats, shoes and shirt ready to take the puppy outside. Dress yourself quickly before you open the crate, carry the puppy to the potty area immediately, praise softly and gently for a job well done, bring him back in and without getting into a play session with him, return the puppy to his crate, turn the lights out and go back to sleep. If the puppy fusses for awhile, talk softly and put your fingers in the grate of the crate. Don't blame or scold the puppy if he has an accident. It is your responsibility to get the puppy out BEFORE he has had a chance soil his den. Later on, after the puppy is used to his routine and after he no longer needs to go out every four hours, you can put the crate on the floor of your bedroom or somewhere else in the house. The Puppy's First Time Alone At some point you have to go to work or go out somewhere and can't take the puppy. He's made it through his first day and night at his new home. He is familiar with his crate. Make sure the pup has been exercised and has pottied. It is helpful if he has played a bit and is tired. Lure him into the crate with a treat and your command ("kennel up") or physically place the puppy into the crate gently. Close the door and leave the house. No talking to him etc. He may whine a little. Don't stay away too long. An hour or two is best. If you have to go to work and have no other choice, then arrange to come home at lunch to feed, exercise and potty the puppy during your break or have someone else come in and do this for you. A puppy cannot be expected to go longer than four hours without a potty break and it is very hard to retrain a puppy that is used to soiling his crate. (about-dogs) Conclusion With time the puppy will begin to enjoy his crate. This is his home. Once he gets adapted to the routine he will think nothing of going into the crate. He will stop whining at night and start pottying on a regulated schedule. When the puppy is tired or just wants to get away he will go to his crate. You have taught him that his crate is a comfortable environment. |
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| CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY |
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